Step #8 –
Lay in your cross-member. It should fit snugly into the notches on each side rail at the hallway point on the long side of the bed. You may have to do a little more “notching” to get it right, but don’t worry, it doesn’t have to be 100% perfect.
Measure the inside of the frame now, width by length. This is the gross measurement that the supporting plywood will need to be. What you want to do now is subtract about 1/4” from the both the width and the length measurements. This will give you a little wiggle room to clear the corner braces when you lay the plywood into the frame.
Now, here is where I made a very smart decision…I then measured to the center of the cross-member piece.
Off to Lowes I went. I had them cut a piece of high-quality, smooth finished 5/8” plywood to the dimensions that I just had you calculate. But then, I had them make one more cut that was in the exact center of the cross-member.
Now I had two smaller pieces of plywood that was WAY more easy to handle than one large piece. And the cross-member would give each piece of plywood plenty of support.
Step #9 –
Back home I went and put the plywood in place. Tested everything for fit, including the mattress. All was just fine!
Took the mattress back off, too the ply wood off, and proceeded to add a little fancy touch to the bed frame. You don’t have to, but I was just trying to impress my wife with my carpentry skills. Look in the molding area of Lowes or Home Depot.
Step # 10 –
I used high quality wood primer/conditioner as my first coat of paint. I let if have plenty of time to dry. I don’t like to rush painting, it rarely comes out well when I rush it and put a second coat on too fast.
Once I had let the primer dry thoroughly, I applied a light coat of a high-quality oil-based paint. My wife wanted gloss back because it would go with color pallet of the rest of the room. I gave that coat of paint plenty of time to dry. Then came the second and final coat of gloss back. Once again, let it have plenty of time to dry.
Step #11 –
The pictures will show me lining up the cases of food almost perfectly. Yeah, well, that was after I had already done it a couple of years before and there were marks in the carpet to guide me. What you will want to do is take that measurement of the inside of the frame that you already have laying around. Put your four corner cases in-place first.
Once you have that all in-place and squared up, you will then layout cases of food on the sides, spacing them appropriately.
STOP! If you are only going to have enough food for one layer of cases then you are ready to lay the frame on the corer cases. If you are going two layers high…then do so now just like the first layer. DO NOT put the cases in the center area yet.
Next you will layout cases of food across the top and bottom of the frame, spacing appropriately.
Make sure that the cases of food are pressing against the inside frame boards nice and tight. Your rails should be sitting on the cases of food. You should have cases of food all the way around the outside of the frame.
Now fill in the center rows of the open space with more food anyway you wish. I spaced mine out to ensure stability of the frame and allow for some extra spaces to put other items that I wanted to keep out of sight.
Step #12 –
Place your cross-member into the notches of the side rails.
Note: The cross member does not sit on any cases of food.
Place your plywood into the side rails and the cross-member.
Place your mattress on top of the plywood.
Really make your wife happy…make the bed!
Step #13 –
This step seems to be reserved for just the women…bed skirt and pillows.
Make it easy on yourself…show your wife the bed, she’ll hug you for having made the bed. (Yes! Use clean sheets!) Then talk to her about a bed skirt to cover the boxes of food that are visible below the bed frame.
My wife just cut the skirting off and used furniture tacks pressed into the cardboard of the food cases to hold on the pretty part of the skirting.
Now, let her throw 20 – 30 pillows on the bed and you are good to go!
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