Tag Archives: How To

Victron Energy Lynx Distribution System – Lynx PowerIn Part #2

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Welcome to Part #2 of the Victron Energy Lynx PowerIn article!

In Part #1 < click here to read Part #1 > I shared a bunch of information, here in Part #2 I will show you how I attached a Class T fuse and how I turned a PowerIn into a fused distributor/connection point.

 

The battery side of this is pretty simple –

Adding a Class T fuse to the PowerIn.

The PowerIn external terminal hole is 8mm, the Class T fuse is 3/8″ stud. Yup, won’t work. I drilled out the external terminal with a 3/8″ drill bit.

Once I had it drilled out, it fit nice and snug.

Added the Class T fuse holder plastic protective cover and all was good. The cover protects any accidental contact with the terminals. Yes, I used a Bluesea Class T fuse…you can’t get much better quality than Blesea.

On the distribution side of things it can used a bit differently –

I have two charge controllers and two inverters that need hooked into the system.

I could have used a Lynx Distributor, but it costs $66 more and I didn’t need the monitoring capability, nor the pretty lights on the cover. But, I did need fusing capability. So here is a great “hack” for you…you can turn a PowerIn into a budget (a.k.a. “poor man’s”) Lynx Distributor with 4 simple additions…nuts, washers, and bolts. Here is how you do it…

PowerIn Hack –

First thing, buy:

  • Four (4) M8 x 25mm Hex Head Screw Bolt, Fully Threaded, Stainless Steel 18-8, Plain Finish
  • Eight (8) M8 Hex Nut M8-1.25, 65mm Height, 304 18-8 Stainless Steel
  • Twelve (12) 316 Stainless Steel Flat Washer, Plain Finish, Meets DIN 125, M8 Hole Size, 8.4mm ID, 16mm OD, 1.6mm Nominal Thickness
  • Four (4) M8 Copper Split Lock Sealing Ring Spring Washer Fastener

Important note: Use stainless steel and copper only as mentioned. Do not use any regular steel, etc.

Next…

Then place the four M8 bolts in slots as pictured…

Then place a stainless steel washer on each bolt as pictured…(the washers reinforce the bottom part of the plastic to prevent damage to the plastic when you reinstall it).

Next you will replace the plastic cover and insert/tighten the 4 retaining screws that you previously removed.

Then add another stainless steel washer and stainless steel nut as pictured…(the washers again strengthen the plastic from damage, the nut raises the working surface to a level point for the fuse).

Then you can add your lugs and fuses…

PowerIn with hack completed, fuse installed and both positive and negative wires installed.

Important Note: There are other websites who do kinda the same hack…but they mostly get it wrong. They do not add the nut on top of the washer that sits on top of the plastic piece and before the fuse & lugs. Not putting that nut on creates a very disjointed angle for the fuse that could damage the internal fuse connections.

So there you have it…a Lynx PowerIn has many uses including that of a stripped down, economical Lynx Distributor.

Let me know if you have any questions!

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Send me your thoughts, ideas, comments, questions, and concerns…

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Thank you for your response. ✨

 

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My “Power-Box” Project – Part #3

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Time to finish the portable power box!

I finished up Part #2 showing how I built the basic box and wired it up. In this article I will show you how I finished wiring it and then added a great option. OK, I think it is a great option. And, I will include a really basic wiring diagram. No, I am no electrical engineer and the diagram won’t be some high-grade schematic, but it will clearly show you how I wired everything. And hey, remember…it all works…and works really well. A little secret…I made some changes to the wiring, but not to worry, I will explain the changes.

< Read Part #1 by clicking here >

< Read Part #2 by clicking here >

Here are some of the additional options I wanted to add to the power box-

  • Distributing higher amperages,
  • Distributing a “cluster” of outlets on an extension cord,
  • Using a heavy duty battery charger to charge the internal battery, and
  • “Daisy-chain” boxes together for more ampere hours.

As I was thinking through the additional options I wanted, I figured I needed heavier gauge wiring than just #10. And I also wanted really well protected wire outside of the box to protect against heavy-duty usage. So I naturally gravitated to my standard…Anderson Powerpoles…the PP75 option seemed as if it was made to order for my application.

Anderson Powerpoles
Powerwerx PP75

For my wire I followed my own advice…I went to Walmart and purchased a set of 12’ booster cables in 8 gauge wire. Cheaper than buying the equivalent wire and it comes with much heavier-duty protective insulation. I snipped off the clamps, installed the PP75 connectors and my “extension cord” was good to go.

Next came the wiring from the battery “through” the box itself. I wanted it to be a “through the chassis” connection vs. just laying out the extension cord. And it had to be fused since this was going directly to the battery vs. through the distribution block that I also installed since the last article. The extension cord would not be going through the PWRgate since it is designed to handle much higher amperages than the 40amps of the PWRgate. And I didn’t want to fry the PWRgate by sending voltage in a reverse direction through the PWRgate into the battery.

To make this connection I started with a fused connector from Powerwerx – MAXI Fuse Holders with Ring terminals and 75 Amp Powerpole Connectors.

Powerwerx RGH-08

It is a heavy duty 8 gauge fuse holder with 40 amp MAXI fuse – 75 amp Powerpole connectors on one end and gold plate 3/8 inch ring terminals on the other end. It is their item # RGH-08.

To make a solid “through the chassis” connection I went with the Powerwerx Powerpole Mounting Clamp, item # 1463G1. I wanted the connection in the vicinity of the other connections simply for convenience. So I located the right spot, measured the right opening size, and cut it out.

Powerwerx Powerpole Mounting Clamp, item # 1463G1

Note: don’t make the opening too large. You want it to be a tight fit to lock the connectors into the mounting clamp and firmly against the box material as well.

I secured the top plate first making sure that the fit was very tight to the box.

Then I drilled my holes and secured the lower plate. Make sure you have a solid fit! You must have a solid fit so the connector doesn’t come loose when plugging and unplugging the extension cord.

Bingo…done! I had my 75amp heavy duty connection made directly to the battery. I now had my options. First was simple attaching the extension cord to another box. I want to hook the batteries up in parallel to increase the “capacity” so the extension cord is already made correctly… positive to positive, negative to negative.

Power Box with 75amp extension cord.

I also wired up a couple of battery clamps to a set of PP75 connectors. Now, I can connect the box to another battery directly. Note: the Anderson Powerpoles make it virtually impossible to make revers connections damaging electrical components.

I also had a Powerwerx PS-75-45-4 in my parts box to connect to the end of my extension cord. Now I could run my extension cord 12’ add the PS-75-45-4 and connect four devices to the extension cord. Devices such as four radios, etc.

Power Box with 75amp extension cord plus the options of battery clamps and the Powerwerx PS-75/45-4 power distribution block.

Note: Be aware that the Powerwerx PS-75-45-4 is no longer being made but can still be found at suppliers such as GigaParts. Powerwerx has a replacement option called the “PD-75” which will accomplish the same thing.

Now my power box is ready to go to the field!

In my next article in this series I will share a few of my ideas on how to use the box. And for those of you that are wondering…yes, this could be considered a “solar generator” when connected with solar panels for charging. But, yes again…it is so much more than just a simple “solar generator” if you think through the possibilities.

Power Box wiring diagram.
click the image to enlarge

Download the wiring diagram in a PDF < AHTrimblePowerBoxWiringDiagram>

 

 

 

 

TIP: Lucas Oil TB Zinc Plus for Small Engines

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This “tip” came to me from a very experienced, completely competent, marvelous small engine mechanic.

Small engine application – 1 table spoon per engine oil change. Most oil today has zinc processed out of it. But, zinc is a really good oil additive that helps lubricate an engine…especially helpful with small engines to extend their life.

Vehicle application – Lucas Oil TB Zinc Plus is a zinc additive for engine oil. Its designed for engines with no catalytic converter in the exhaust. This product is also used as an engine “break-in” additive for newly built engines. For non-race, vehicle applications, one bottle will usually treat two oil changes. Some race-engine applications require the entire bottle. Classic cars (depending on oil capacity) require approximately 2,100 PPM (Parts Per Million) zinc in the oil.

Note #1: The is meant for 4 stroke crank cases. In a 2 stroke, you don’t want any non-combustibles in the mixture as it will gum up everything, and likely damage the motor.
Note #2: diesel oil should have the higher zinc content that is required, such as Shell Rotella 15w-40. You can still use this Lucas product, just don’t over do it on quantity.

Note #3: It does not thicken the oil.

 

 

Connecting Batteries in Series or Parallel

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hooking batteries together in parallel or seriesWhy connect batteries together at all?  There are times when you need power for a longer period of time. Or, you need double the voltage that you get from a single battery.

Here’s the rule – series doubles the voltage, parallel provides longer power.

“But how am I supposed to connect my battery if I want to double the capacity but not the voltage?”

It can be confusing if you’ve never done it, but hopefully this will make it easier. Let’s give you a picture to show how it is done –

Connecting in Series

When connecting your batteries in series you are doubling the voltage while maintaining the same capacity rating (amp hours). Just use a jumper wire of sufficient gauge (usually 2 – 8) between the negative of the first battery and the positive of the second battery. Run your negative wire off of the open connector from the first battery and your positive off of the open connector on your second battery.

Connecting Battery in series

Connecting in Parallel

When connecting in parallel you are doubling the capacity (amp hours) of the battery while maintaining the same voltage individual batteries. Just use a jumper wire of sufficient gauge (usually 2 – 8) between the positives of both batteries and another jumper wire between the negatives of both batteries. Connect your positive and negative wires to the same battery to run to your application.

Connecting Battery in ParallelNotes:

  1. Try to use the same brand and model batteries whenever possible.
  2. Don’t put more power to your equipment than is stated by the manufacturer. You could easily blow your equipment up.
  3. Use heavy enough wire for connections.

Lessons Learned: I shot myself…

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Yeah…OK…it was “click bait” to be sure. But yes, it is also true…just not maybe the way you were thinking.

Truth…yes, I shot myself. More truth, it was with a nail gun.

Background –

So there I was…10′ up in the air,  on a ladder, using my air-powered nail gun to install soffit under the eves of our 1000sq’ retirement house. Things were going along nicely until I felt a dull stabbing pain in my left index finger. I looked at the finger and there was a nail that had gone through the piece of soffit, through the furring strip and into my finger having entered right beside the knuckle. And yes…I was kind of in disbelief.

So I had to lift my hand up to pull the nail out of my finger, then climb down the ladder. Of course I gently lowered my Hitachi nail gun to the ground first. Once on the ground it really dawned on me what I had just done…and the pain started to show up. Strangely enough it wasn’t a searing or sharp pain…more like a dull ache. I wrapped my handkerchief around my finger to stem the blood flow.

I started to walk to the cabin…then it dawned on me, “Why walk the 100 yards?” So I turned and headed to the UTV to drive the 100yards to the cabin where my Family First Aid Kit (FFAK) was. All I could think about was getting it washed out, cleaned up, bandaged, and get back to work. Yeah…not thinking real well at the time.

I got to the cabin, retrieved my FFAK, went out to the front deck, and started to asses the damage. I didn’t really think about it at the time…but I was shaking. I used the BandAid Wound Wash to clear away the blood BandAid Wound Washand allow the lidocaine in the Wound Wash to dull some of the pain. It would also help prevent infection due to the antiseptic in it.

I had been thinking about it and while it wasn’t too painful, I started wondering if there was any bone damage…as in penetration of the bone or splintering. Having been an EMT on the street with the fire department for a number of years I knew that if bone damage or fragments were present I could be dealing with not only infection but other more serious issues.

I flexed the finger, it hurt, but was flexible, although not as much as normal, I didn’t sense and grating. I then felt around the entry hole, joint, etc. and could feel no unusual movement or anything like bone fragments. But, I am no expert or doctor so I decided an x-ray was the safe bet on this one.

It was weird…there was this tiny entry hole and no exit hole. I remembered not seeing the tip of the nail poking out the skin. I figured it had slid up the finger right along the bone. Total length inside my finger…about 1-1/4″.

I got it cleaned up, applied some triple antibiotic, and then wrapped 1-1/2″ gauze around it. Now, time to call my wife. After a somewhat brief conversation, once I got her on the phone, it was decided she would double check to see if there was a closer place for treatment than the hospital in the nearby larger town while I would start the 30 minute drive. No, no need for a medi-vac or even an ambulance…not really life threatening or even all that serious in reality.

On the way to town, about half way, she found an emergency clinic that was closer than the hospital emergency room. Cool…it would be closer, probably less waiting time, and obviously cheaper. I asked her to call them back and make sure they accepted our medical insurance.

Making the story much shorter…got to the clinic, I was patient #2, got in quick, x-ray, bandaged up, prescription for 10-days of cephalexin, and I was on my way back to the cabin.

Issues/Mitigation/Reality –
  1. Issue: I am building a house which can be fairly dangerous due to the potential of construction accidents. Mitigation: I would keep my phone on me at all times in case I was hurt I could call for help. Reality: I had been working on the house for 4 months with not even a close call with an accident. My phone was in the UTV not in my pocket where it should have been.
  2. Issue: Accidents do happen. Mitigation: We have a well-stocked FFAK for just such instances. Reality: The FFAK was 100 yards away in the cabin
  3. Issue: Our house is located out in the sticks. Our closest neighbor is 500 yards away. The closest nice neighbor is 1000 yards away, small town 20 minutes away, larger town 30 minutes away. 10 – 12 minutes of fairly rough dirt road just to get to the highway. Mitigation: Keep truck ready to go, keys in the ignition during the day, UTV handy at all times. Reality: Truck improperly parked, no keys in the ignition, didn’t even think about the UTV at first.
  4. Issue: There is the potential need for emergency medical/accident care. Mitigation: In addition to the FFAK and training, we have a great trauma hospital 30 minutes away, there are two life-flight helicopters available. Reality: I wasn’t sure that I would make the drive myself if shock set in. I don’t know our address to give to 911 to get an ambulance there. I don’t have the GPS coordinates to my house to facilitate a helicopter ride to the hospital.
  5. Issue: While there is a great trauma hospital 30 minutes away, there might have been closer medical care facilities but I didn’t know that. Mitigation: Pre-identify any potential medical treatment facility. Reality: Not done.

So there I was…accident victim, alone, 30 minutes from medical care, and honestly…fairly unprepared for it. I always thought that if something serious happened I would call my wife (320 miles and 6 hours away) and let her coordinate the response via phone. Well…reality time! She was busy at work. First call to her office got someone who didn’t know where she was. I then called her cell-phone…ignored. Called her right back…ignored. Called her right back…text message response…she was busy and would call me back later. Called her right back…text message response…she was busy right then and couldn’t talk. Called her right back…she answered and was a little miffed, she had been working with a client.

While she was talking I spoke over her, “I just shot myself and I need to go to the hospital.”

Yeah, that got her quiet. Shortening the story…the plan…

  • She started to coordinate the response while I headed into town.
  • She was to call me back in 20 minutes to make sure I was still mobile.
  • She would check to see if there was a closer medical treatment facility. Yeah…Google it!
  • She would call ahead to the hospital to let them know I was coming.

What happened…

  • She found a closer emergency treatment clinic.
  • I went there instead.
  • She called ahead to let them know I was coming.
  • She called them back to make sure they took our medical insurance.
  • She called me back and kept me on speaker phone while I drove to the clinic…about 15 minutes.
Lessons Learned –
  1. Having the cell phone on me as a mitigation step was a great idea…if I would have had it on me. I had grown complacent. So, I need to stick with our mitigation strategy and avoid complacency.
  2. Having a great FFAK was wonderful! Having it 100 yards away from the worksite was not a very good idea. So maybe a better idea would be to move it to the worksite. But, considering I spend more time at the cabin than the worksite…maybe not such a great idea. Better idea might be to have two FFAKs…or at least a scaled down version at the worksite to provide immediate first aid till I got to the FFAK at the cabin.
  3. Having cell-phone communications with my wife is great! Depending on her to coordinate a medical response…not so much. Rework that whole mitigation strategy for more practical response/coordination.
  4. Having great medical treatment centers nearby is fantastic! Knowing where each is, what their level of trauma care they can handle, and how to get there is absolutely necessary. And all of that needs to be done in advance of the actual accident.
  5. Having ambulances and life-flight helicopters available is an incredible blessing. Knowing how to get them to your location could be considered imperative. Knowing that in advance of an accident is a necessity.
Summary –

I am recovering nicely. Finger is at about 75%, mostly no swelling, no infection, and very little discomfort. And I know I got lucky. There were a number of points along the way that could have made things turn out far differently. Fortunately, I can learn from this experience…and maybe you can learn something from my experience as well.

It’s great to have plans in-place to deal with risks/threats…but only if they are realistic. And part of that means that you actually have taken the mitigation steps. The other main take-away for me…avoid complacency. I became complacent and left my cell-phone in the UTV vs. having it on my person. What if the nail had actually nailed my hand to the house where I couldn’t climb down off the ladder? Then what? Yeah, I hate to think about that one.

Accidents are real. Risks and threats are real. It doesn’t take an emergency, disaster, or grid-down event to require advance planning to mitigate the potential of injury or worse. Neglect mitigation steps at your own peril…or that of your family.

Whatever project/task you are involved with:

  1. Identify what realistically can hurt you.
  2. Develop a realistic mitigation plan.
  3. Stick to the plan.
  4. Avoid complacency.

<to read more about risks/threats/mitigation click here>

<to read more about emergency medical care and kits click here>