Changing Water Filters in our Water System

There are some jobs around the house I am not real crazy about…and not entirely motivated to do with a smile on my face. Changing/cleaning water filters is one of those jobs.

Yes, yes, yes…I know it is important to keep the water clean and to keep us healthy…I just find it tedious.

And since I posted what our water system looks like I thought I would share my program of cleaning and/or changing our system’s water filters.

Now, I want to do the disclaimer thing…I am no expert, I am not a doctor, I am not a plumber, I am not a water quality specialist, I am not a chemical engineer, I am not an EPA water scientist. So do what is best for you and your system…I am simply sharing what works for us. Is that enough or should I grovel more?

Here is an interesting note…Our system is an open system, meaning our water goes from well to storage tank, then into the house system. So the water sits there and the storage tank does accumulate some very limited amount of fine sand that settles in the tank. And since there is a vent in the tank we find the occasional small insect. Hence, the filter system we have. Our neighbor has a closed system, meaning it goes straight from the well into their household pressure tank. You would think that it would be just fine from there. But he tells me that he does find some very fine sand in his water as well…albeit very, very little. So he is putting a single 1micron filter on his system to remove even that.

So now on with our process…






< click here to download the entire Glamstead Water System PDF file >

Original article (8/30/2022) on our water system: Household Water System

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I am a dummy…Household Water System PDF File

OK, I am a dummy!

I was trying too hard and working too fast on a couple of posts…and I screwed up.

The water system document that described the waster system for our place had to be updated. And I ended up updating it several times before I got it right. However, while I was doing the updating the “old” files were downloaded by a bunch of ya’ll. Which means you got incorrect and out of date information.

Sorry about that.

Here is the complete and correct (at least for now) document describing the water system:

< click here to download the entire Glamstead Water System PDF file >

If you want to check and see if you already have the most up to date file it should be named “GlamsteadWaterSystem-20220919c.pdf”  The “c” is the important part to look for.

I apologize for any confusion, consternation, or constipation over this dummy mistake of mine.

Later today I will be sending out the filter cartridge changing/cleaning information.

Household Water System – IMPORTANT UPDATE!

On Saturday morning I did my annual filter maintenance. And while I did I realized I had made a change last time I did the maintenance I changed the filters, and the .5 (point 5) filter is no longer available.

So I changed the “System Notes” in the Glamstead Water System PDF file.The changes reflect what I am doing now and what filters are available.

For your quick reference the changes are as follows…

12.  I labeled the housings #1, #2, #3 with a Sharpie. The filters are sized as:

  1. Filter Cartridge, 5 Micron, washable (Hydronix SPC-45-2005).
  2. Filter Cartridge, 1 Micron, washable (Hydronix SPC-45-2001).
  3. Hydronix CB-45-2001 Whole House, Commercial & Industrial NSF Coconut Carbon Block Water Filter, 1 Micron

13.  The reasoning behind the filters is this:

  • Larger micron filters are less expensive to purchase.
  • 1 micron #2 filters the same size particles as #3. This keeps #3, the most expensive filter cleaner, saving money.
  • #3 is a 1 micron carbon block filter for removing tastes, odors, impurities, and contaminants such as microscopic cysts, lead, volatile organic chemicals (VOCs) from water. Carbon block is a better technology and higher efficiency than a GAC carbon filter.

< click here to download the entire Glamstead Water System PDF file >

Original article (8/30/2022) on our water system: Household Water System


 2009 - 2022 Copyright © ~ All rights reserved
No reproduction or other use of this content 
without expressed written permission from
See Content Use Policy for more information.

Household Water System

Filtering & purifying water for children to drinkThis is a companion article to the Our Solar Well Pump System.

This is the system set-up at the house itself. It includes the filter system as well. It also shows the entire plumbing layout for the water delivery/filtration system.

I hope you enjoy the information!

< click here to download the entire Glamstead Water System PDF file >

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Our Solar Well Pump System

OK, let’s talk water, solar power, splicing, planning, plan changes, and gasoline prices…

Back when we bought our place in 2016 we were lucky enough to buy a piece of property that already had a well on it. After we bought the place we had the well tested…all was good. We also had them pull the pump at the same time, we wanted to put in a new pump, pipe, etc. Little did I know how much we would eventually change it.

I knew a guy who owned a plumping supply house that specialized in wells, pumps, etc. so I thought he was the logical choice to talk to. After a few minutes of discussion I found out he lived kinda off-grid and knew a lot about off-grid well systems and such. I explained our situation to him, including our usage projections, budget, my skills/experience, and asked him for his recommendation.

He laid it out in very economical terms; 1) 120v AC 1/2hp pump, 2) 10/3 w/ground submersible wire, 3) QB control box, 4) circuit breaker box, 5) connection box with outlet, 6) 3000watt generator, 7) 1” Yellow Bimodal MDPE (Medium Density Polyethylene) Gas Pipe. That was the pump set-up, still had to get it from the wellhead to the house.

The system to move the water from the wellhead to the house was a separate operation and I was a little unclear how it would work out. I had to clarify the house side first and figure out how much storage capacity, redundancy, and reserve would be adequate. I wanted a 2500gal storage tank and choked at the price tag. While on multiple visits to a local plumbing supply house I kept seeing a storage tank sitting in their yard. It was 1100gal and really high quality (Snyder Industries). I eventually bought it for $500 out the door…a real steal. Today you would pay nearly $1,400 for the tank…then shipping charges on top of that.

Next I designed our utility room (100sqft addition on the rear of the house) which would contain the filter system. I also decided I wanted a 330gal reserve tank in the utility room as well.

I measured it out and it was almost 900’ from the wellhead to the house…at the same altitude/elevation. My pump guy said the well pump he recommended would have no issues moving the water from the wellhead to the house since there was no gain in head (no additional height to pump water above the wellhead). But, he did recommend that I use 1-1/4” – 1-1/2” pipe to move the water from the wellhead to the house (lowers the pressure and increases the GPM flow rate). I bought 750’ of 1-1/4” Yellow Bimodal MDPE (Medium Density Polyethylene) gas pipe that had been marked way down due to some minor nicks. The nicks meant any government agency would no longer purchase the pipe…it was considered “damaged” but perfectly suitable for moving water.

I found a good location for the storage tank that sits about 15’ above the house, and that gives me about 7.5psi going into the house…helps prime the house pressure pump. I ran just about 725’ of the 1-1/4” MDPE pipe underground from the wellhead to the storage tank. From the tank I ran 1-1/2” PVC underground into the utility room that houses the house system.

Our water usage required me to fill our storage tank meant I ran the generator every week during the summer and about every 2 weeks during the winter. That was about 2 gals of gasoline each time. At the old gas price it meant about $2.50 – $5 each week.

Then we changed it up a bit. Our largish backyard was nothing more than dirt, dust, or mud depending on the weather. So I wanted to plant some dry pasture grass to hold the soil in place and make it a bit more human-friendly…but not a lawn. Then my neighbor heard about my “yard project” and offered a bunch of grass seed he had in his barn that he was never going to use. Then I found about 5# of grass seed in my garage/barn. A new, more complicated project was born!

See, to get grass seed to germinate you have to keep it wet for two weeks…that means watering 2 – 3 times a day for two weeks. That is about 500 – 600 gals each watering. I was running the generator up to 4 hours a day. We were now spending about $12 – $15 per day and hauling more gas home than I wanted to. Yeah, I am a bit lazy. But it got worse…the grass started looking really good. So now it went from soil retention pasture project to a suburban backyard project requiring regular watering. Yeah, our water usage went through the roof…along with the gasoline bill.

So we have no issues with water supply…it is the largest aquifer in the country…meaning trillions and trillions of gallons…probably more. Moving it from the aquifer to the yard was a whole other story.

From the beginning I had a plan in the back of my mind to build a stand-alone solar system in the well house located at the wellhead to power the well pump. I had the solar panels, charge controller, and most of the little bits & pieces. I had a modified sine wave 3000watt inverter lined up. I just needed the batteries to put it all together. I was going to purchase 4 used 6v lead acid solar batteries from a buddy of mine that owns a solar shop/store.

I invited him to lunch and 1-1/2 hours later he had convinced me that a solar pump system was the right way to go. Easier to maintain, longer lifespan, no manual effort, etc. $3,000 later I had the pump and controller. My solar panels on hand would be plenty of power. Another $900 in wire, bits and pieces I was ready to go.

Total time to install was:

  • 1/2 day to run signal wire from the tank to the wellhead.
  • 1-1/2 days to build the array rack, paint it, and install the PVs onto the rack and wire them together in series.
  • Another 1/2 day to wire the PVs to the combiner, install ground rods, wire it all, and test everything.
  • 1 day to pull the old pump, install, wire splice the new pump into the system, and putting the pump back down the well.
  • 1/4 day testing the new pump and it failed…bad wire splice at the pump.
  • 1 day to pull the new pump, resplice the wire connection, run the pump back down the well, and test…it was a success.
  • 1/2 to install the storage tank float switch, wire it in the controller, and test the entire system…success.

Now we have an automated system that refills the storage tank when it hits 50% capacity (500gal). We don’t have to do anything manually. The old well house gets torn down. The concrete wellhead structure is 24” tall with a berm of dirt that protects it and conceals it. It is amazing!!!

The problem we had was the splice that we did at the well pump. We used a standard submersible splice kit. It didn’t work right but we thought we had compensated for it. We didn’t, and it failed.

When I did the splice again the next day I used Ace Hardware 30986 Self-Fusing Splicing Tape and then Scotch 2242 electric tape to protect from abrasion. When I did the splice I used a standard 10g yellow butt connector. Then I wrapped a layer of the 30986 tape covering the butt connector ends really well by about 2”. Then going the opposite direction I used another layer of the 30986 ensuring that I covered the ends of the first layer by 2”. Once that was done I used the 2242 in a heavy layer (2” overlap on the ends) to protect the first layers from any abrasion issues going up or down the casing. It worked just fine.

If I was to do it again I would:

  • Use a 10g butt connector.
  • Using Gardner Bender LTB-400 I would force it into the ends of the butt connector until they were full. Then I would cover the entire butt connector with LTB-400 to ensure that no part of the connector was exposed. But I would also make sure it was smooth. Let it dry and cure completely for 24 hours.
  • Then I would spray two coats of Gardner Bender LTS-400 allowing 30 minutes between coats, and then allow 24 hours for it to cure.
  • Then I would wrap two layers of Ace 30986, each going in a different direction (wrap direction). The first layer would cover the butt connector and extend 2” past the ends. The second layer would go in the opposite wrap direction and extend 2” past the ends of the first layer.
  • Finally I would use a single layer of Scotch 2242 wrapped over the entire splice, covering the ends of the splice by 2” for abrasion protection.

I absolutely love the pump and controller made by Sun Pumps!!! At their tech support was nothing short of amazing!!!  I highly suggest you look at them if you are embarking on such a product.

Next comes a schematic of my water system from ground to storage tank.

General Overview
( click to enlarge )

Wellhead Plumbing
( click to enlarge )

Power & Wiring
( click to enlarge )

Water Tank Plumbing & Wiring
( click to enlarge )

You can download a PDF of my water system by <clicking here>

Important Equipment Recommendations –

You can download Pump Installation and Operations Information PDF file

You can download Control Module Installation and Operations PDF file

Sun Pumps website <click here>

Sun Pump Dealer locator <click here>

If you have any questions please ask. And of course, as always, I would love to hear your thoughts, comments, and recommendations.

Related Articles –


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TIP: If your water supply is failing fill your bathtub and…

Water Main Broken city water supply failsnote: first published in September 2015

If your water supply is failing but there is still running water, fill your:

  • bathtubs
  • sinks
  • buckets
  • trash cansfill any container with water
  • pot & pans,
  • bowls
  • water bottles
  • jars
  • glasses

Fill anything that will hold water. You can figure out how to store it and purify it later, but for now just fill up anything at all that can hold water. Water is priceless and the single highest priority for sustaining life.WaterBOB = water storage of 100gal

A WaterBob is a great way to store water in a bath tub should you need to.

< Information on water >

< Information on bath tub water storage >





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Feedback & Comments: 3/29/2020 – 1

AH Trimble Feedback and CommentsIn regards to the Just Water Filter information I posted on 3/27 (click here > > IMPORTANT ! – Monolithic Water Filters  )

  • Duana writes…

“These are the filters my group here in Texas has been buying for several years. I love them!!”


  • Scott writes…

“Are these as good as Berkey brand filters?”

I responded…

In my opinion they are as good or better…and far less expensive!
My research of laboratory results shows it removes 85 – 90% of all insecticides, herbicides, pesticides. It removes 96 – 99% of metals. It removes 99.999 – 100% of all the ugly virus and bacteria junk. It removes 98% of all particles greater than .2 microns. It even removes Anthrax! Berkey filters run about $120 per pair. Just Water filters can be bought for about $40 each. Substantial price difference! And the Just Water filters are to be installed in regular buckets…even plastic trash cans! You can install one filter or 10. The more filters the higher the flow rate.

These filters remove:
> 99% Arsenic 5 and 99% Arsenic 3 (special order)
> 99% Hydrogen Sulfide (H2S)
> 95% Chlorine and Chloramines
> 99% Taste
> 99% Odor
> 98% Aluminum
> 96% Iron
> 98% Lead
> 90% Pesticides
> 85% Herbicides
> 85% Insecticides
> 90% Rodenticides
> 85% Phenols
> 85% MTBE
> 85% Perchlorate
> 80% Trihalomethanes
> 95% Poly Aromatic Hydrocarbons
> 99.999% of particles larger than 0.5 micron (Staffordshire University Labs) (includes Anthrax)
> 99.7% of particles larger than 0.3 micron (Staffordshire University Labs)
> 98% of particles larger than 0.2 micron (Staffordshire University Labs)
> 100% Giardia Lamblia
> 100% Cyclospora
> 100% removal of live Cryptosporidium (WRc Standard)
> 100% removal of Cryptosporidium (NSF Standard 53 – A.C. fine dust – 4 log challenge)
> 100% removal of E. Coli, Vibrio Cholerae (Johns Hopkins University)
> 99.999% removal of Salmonella Typhil, Shigella Dysenteria, Kiebsiella Terrigena (Hyder Labs)

And this filter system comes with a great list of laboratories that certify how good it is:
National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) Standard 42
National Sanitation Foundation (NSF) Standard 53
ISO 9002 Quality Standard
USA AEL Laboratories
USA Analytical Food Laboratories
USA Johns Hopkins University
British 5750 Quality Standard
England’s Water Research council (WRc)

Send Me Your Feedback & Comments…


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> > IMPORTANT ! – Monolithic Water Filters

I received word that Monolithic is no longer selling the ceramic water filter system. And that is true.

Read more about the ceramic water filters I am talking about [click here]

But…no fear!!!!

I did some follow-up and the filters were actually made by a company in Texas. I spoke with the owner of that company this morning and received some fantastic information. The filters and systems are still available. And more products than I originally knew about.

They are almost sold out of the 4″x4″ filters but are holding back 30 units that can be purchased directly. And Wise Foods still have some in-stock. [click here]

If you are a church group, non-profit organization, or doing a group buy for preppers you can purchase them direct. Go to [click here] and speak with Ron directly through the contact links on the home page. I spoke with Ron and he was very encouraging and willing to help folks out to acquire the filters. He sounds like a solid Christian man, a Baptist that has been providing water filters to needed areas around the world for decades. Please let him know that AH Trimble sent you!

One thought…the normal filter that I use and recommend is the 4″x4″ but they are almost out of stock on that one. But, they make a 2″x10″ filter that does the exact same thing and works just as well. So don’t hesitate to buy and use that filter till the 4″x4″ filters are back in larger numbers.

They also make an add-on filter that removes radiation. And another filter that removes salt. Both add-on filters also work via gravity feed! You can learn more at the website [click here]

So there you go…BACK IN BUSINESS !

The actual name of the ceramic water filters is Just Water Ceramic Filter. Talk to Ron…he can get you back to a place of safety with your water situation.