Survival Garden (top 5 plants) : Part #2 of 2

For this to make sense, you should probably should read Part #1 first < click here to read Part #1 >

We stopped in Part #1 needing 5,400 pounds of food from your garden for our family of four. That’s almost 3 tons of garden production!!! Whoa!!!! That is a lot of garden production.

So, how would you produce that much from your garden?


Here’s how it breaks down, space wise, for each of the 5 foods…

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Here’s what a garden layout might look like based on individual plots of each of the 5 foods…

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Now good news, these plants can be planted as “companions” for space consideration and nutrient compatibility.

Now, let’s revise the garden layout with companion planting in mind…

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That is an impractical layout because there is no spacing between rows to work…or even walk. But I wanted to show you just what the actual garden “space” looked like. But now let’s look at what is realistic…

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This version is more practical but still very condensed/compact. It does give you an idea of what is possible. You could take it and expand it to meet your needs/wants according to your available space.

The bottom line here is simple…you could do it.

Does this mean you couldn’t plant anything else? Of course not. And there are plenty more companion plants that you could integrate into our survival garden with realistically little additional effort. Think about it…add flavor (chili peppers), add cooking options (tomato sauce), add nutrition/flavor (onions), add taste (cucumbers → pickles), etc.

Also, think about this…on our glamstead we have a strawberry patch, a raspberry patch, and a blackberry patch. You could plant those now as well…and be ready for the future.

The “garden” we’ve been talking about is the primary source of calorie/protein/fat staples kinda food. Our tasty berries are relatively high in vitamin C, fiber, and antioxidants. They aren’t calorie-dense enough to form a primary energy source like potatoes, beans, or corn, but they round out nutrition, help prevent deficiencies, and add variety to the diet. Kinda like a boost to morale and diet satisfaction item…think sugar “fix.” They do provide nutrients that improve immune function. And frankly, if needed, berries could serve as trading or bartering items. Think about this…they cold also help prevent food fatigue.

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Here are some Options / Alternatives –

Out of the 5 basic foods we discussed so far here are some thoughts…

  • The most difficult to grow is dry corn due to heavy nitrogen demand. It is also the most labor and equipment intensive to process for storage and actual storage itself.
  • The most difficult to store is potatoes due to temperature control, humidity control, sprouting potential, and risk of rot.

Let’s see what can be grown in their place…

Dry Corn – “Most Difficult to Grow & Harvesting Process”

Alternative Options:

  • Grain Sorghum: Drought-tolerant, easier to grow in poor soil, high-calorie grain.
  • Millet: Small grains, very hardy, grows in hot/dry conditions, easier to grow than corn.
  • Amaranth: Can serve as both leafy greens and grain, very resilient, drought-tolerant.
Potatoes – “Most Difficult to Store”

Alternative Options:

  • Sweet potatoes: Longer storage life, high calories, and easier to cure/store in our high-desert climate. Interesting note…sweet potatoes are a completely different plant from regular potatoes, though they are both starchy, tuber-like crops
  • Jerusalem artichokes (sunchokes): Tubers that tolerate cold, can be left in soil until needed, calorie-dense.
  • Carrots or parsnips: Root vegetables with reasonable storage life if stored properly; less yield per acre than potatoes but easier to manage.

Now, if I was going to suggest two crops that could be of immense help, even replace the corn, it would be Jerusalem artichokes and grain sorghum. Grain sorghum would be a preferred replacement for corn. Jerusalem artichokes could replace potatoes. BUT…better yet…just add Jerusalem artichokes to the “Top 5 List”…call it “insurance.”

Jerusalem artichokes bring to the garden/diet incredible reliability, little storage headache, leave-in-ground harvesting, and huge yields. Jerusalem artichoke are calories per pound about the same as potatoes and they’re mostly carbohydrate (inulin). Inulin feeds beneficial gut bacteria. Produces less rapid glucose spike than potatoes. As a side-benefit it may help improve absorption of both calcium and magnesium. “Soft” Warning – eating Jerusalem artichokes, for some people, may cause bloating, gas, and digestive discomfort. The result could also include gaseous emissions (farts). Best to try them before doing a big planting.

There you go!! You can garden to survive…if you want to garden and survive. Many folks, myself included, would look at the garden as a supplement to our food storage for probably the first two years. First year for sure we would depend on our food storage and use the garden production to extend our food storage.

If this scenario would be an “extended” food chain problem…or a total “grid-down” end of the world event (TEOTWAWKI) then by year 3 you would be looking at the garden as the sole source of food. And please, please don’t say “I would just hunt for our food and eat deer, elk, rabbit, and the neighbors cows.”

Really, do you live in a forest? What do you think every other starving family would be doing? And do you think your neighbor might object, just a little bit, to you killing his cows? That being said…don’t overlook an opportunity kill of wildlife. Even small birds could add protein to a stew. And a venison steak would be amazing cooked over a campfire. But you won’t survive thinking you are the great hunter/gatherer dragging dinner home to your family.

Another thought…is your garden in plain view? If so, maybe that isn’t the best idea…everyone else would see it as a grocery store.

Here’s a thought for you…And I would plant zucchini no matter what. Zucchini can actually be a surprisingly useful survival food, especially in a high-production, home-garden or prepper setup. Zucchini germinates and grows rapidly, sometimes ready to harvest in about 50 days from seed. You can harvest multiple rounds in a single season. That could keep you from starving when food supply is limited. As you well know, each plant produces a large number of fruits over the season…even a few plants can provide consistent food.

Zucchini is easy to grow and can be eaten raw, cooked, roasted, or made into soups/stews. It can also be shredded or sliced and then incorporated into multiple dishes. Don’t forget “zoodles.” Zucchini is not extremely calorie-dense, it does provides hydration and nutrients such as vitamins A, C, potassium, and a good fiber source.

And lastly…the seeds. Zucchini seeds can be harvested from mature fruit, dried, stored, and then consumed as seeds (roasted and/or flavored). The seeds can be safely stored (if prepared & stored properly) for 6 – 12 months. And they can be added to soups or stews.

Think about this for a minute…how many times have you heard of zucchini plants taking over a garden or producing fruit 10 times faster than they can be eaten. Wouldn’t that be a wonderful problem to have if you were trying to survive off your garden!?!

Nature gets a vote. A survival garden should always have redundancy. I would over-plant and diversify. Better safe than sorry.

Last note…spices and salt. If you are going to live off your garden…store plenty of spices and salt. Without those…your meals, while filling, might lead to more food fatigue.

< click to enlarge or save >

Listen closely…in closing…forget the experts and talking heads for a minute. Think about your family, your community, and the people around you. Become more self-reliant, not so you can stand apart from others, but so you can better care for your family and serve those around you.

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No one is coming to save us…we serve and save each other.

← Click here to read Part #1 Article 


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Survival Garden (top 5 plants) : Part #1 of 2

I get this question a lot. I thought I covered it before but I will have another go at it with details. The question is “What can I plant and grow in my garden to survive on if there is no food available at all in the store?

I am going to change that and make it much more dramatic.


The I am going to use scenario:

  1. Food supply chain is done, gone, not available.
  2. I need to live off my garden as the only source of food.
  3. I know I need calories and protein.
  4. I need lots of pounds of food.
  5. I need to be able to store it from harvest (year 1) through planting (year 2) to harvest (year 2).
  6. I need some of the seeds from the harvest in year 1 to use for planting in year 2.
  7. Space is not an issue…reasonably.
  8. I have a family of 4; 1 adult man, 1 adult woman, 1 teen child, 1 pre-teen child.

Here are some basics:

  • These become your priorities; calories, protein, fat/oils, storage life, seed saving, growth reliability, climate adaptation, production per square foot, nutritional density, and ability to preserve.
  • For my specific glamstead location, I have to consider crops that work with a shorter growing season, cool nights, intense UV, low humidity, spring wind, periodic drought, and possible early/late frosts/freezes. I can offset the “drought” issue because I have a well. But, will the well hold out? Think for a minute…a garden without reliable water is just landscaping.
  • We know that people need calories, carbohydrates, fats, and protein in our diets as priorities.
  • You will starve to death if you think you can survive on lettuce, tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers.
  • And then there is the actual calorie intake requirements:

These numbers are rough estimates based on my climate, my soil, my family assumptions, and reasonable yields. Real-world results could vary dramatically. Please do your own research for your own area and family needs.

Let’s make it more real when looking at it as a family combined…

But under survival conditions where hard/persistent physical labor is present the calorie intake could easily double.

Now, let me share this with you…I am talking pure survival. I am not talking about balanced diet, healthy, gluten free, non-GMO, none of that crap. I am talking food that will keep you alive and the most efficient way to go about it.

Last note, the list is for my area…my location…not yours…unless you are a neighbor. You would have to look up what is right for your area. DO NOT TRUST INTERNET EXPERTS !!! Do not trust gardener or survivalist keyboard warriors. Do not trust me. Do your own research for your area. I will make one suggestion that might help…use some AI program for help. I worked on my list then double-checked it against a very detailed and specific prompt using chatgpt.com It helped me to understand I was off on one of my choices…there was a better one. It also gave me the reasoning for the difference.

Here are the top 5 foods to plant, harvest, eat, and survive…in my area:

  1. Potatoes
  2. Dry Corn (field corn)
  3. Beans (dried beans)
  4. Winter Squash
  5. Sunflowers

* There will be three substitutions/options/alternatives that I will mention at the end.

Here are the details:

#1 Potatoes –

First off, I’m about 1/3 Irish…so this is an obvious #1 choice for me. And in addition to that they have a huge calorie count, they are really productive, they store well, spread and reproduce easily, they are adaptable to most climates including ours, they are very calorie dense, and contain other useful nutrients.

For us the varieties would probably be Yukon Gold or Kennebec. They would store for months in a cool place like a dug pit (which we would do) or root cellar (which we don’t have). And all we would have to do is save some of the potatoes with the most sprouts to use as seed potatoes for the next year’s crop.

They can take up some space but can be grown densely. The soil we would use would need amending (compost) but that could be acquired from under our tress, etc.

#2 Dry Corn (field corn) –

This is not sweet corn we’re talking about…it’s “field” corn, specifically “dent” corn. For our area we would want to use Painted Mountain Corn or Hopi Blue Corn, probably both. These varieties are excellent storage types, pretty dang cold tolerant, they can thrive in a shorter growing season, and can handle more adverse weather conditions that our climate produces. This is a “grain” vs a picnic type corn on the cob. With this corn you can have cornmeal, flour, hominy, masa, and animal feed. But it takes processing; drying, shelling, grinding, and storage.

Our #1 issue is a dry climate, #2 is short growing season. Painted Mountain Corn is excellent at both and Hopi Blue Corn is very good at both. Hopi Blue Corn is a little better at nutrition.

A bonus with dent corn is the “leftover” after the ear of corn is picked and the kernels are shucked…EVERYTHING else is 100% usable.

The stalks and leaves can be used for fresh animal feed, silage animal feed (chopped & fermented), and dried animal feed. Animals that can eat it are cattle, goats, sheep, pigs, and to a limited degree chickens and rabbits. The stalks and leaves can also be used for composting and mulch. And our soil could seriously benefit from both. And the cobs can also be used as fuel. Once dried, they should be viewed as compressed natural tinder…it burns hot and fast. One interesting uses…biochar. Cobs are a good source that can be converted into biochar…another important soil amendment for our area.

#3 Beans (dry beans) –

For our area I would choose Anasazi beans. I am already familiar with them, they taste really great, they are a desert adapted bean, store really well, and they a very good-looking colorful bean. I am considering the addition of Tepary beans. I’ve never grown them but I will try some next year. If I am successful with them…they are actually even better suited for our area and conditions than the Anasazi beans.

Anasazi beans are high protein, high fiber, calorie dense…basically, nutritionally serious food. Yup, and they are great for the soil…they fix nitrogen and improve soil fertility. This would be a crop that you plant in the area where you plant corn the following year. Why? Corn uses a lot of nitrogen, beans put nitrogen into the soil. Once the beans are harvested, leave the roots in the ground (that’s where the nitrogen is) and then compost the plant separately with other organic matter. Nitrogen-fixing bacteria in the bean roots leave some nitrogen in the soil when the roots decompose.

Interesting side-note…if I was caught short and didn’t have any Anasazi beans to use as seeds…well, I would happily use green been seeds. Just let green bean pods mature and dry on the plant. Once fully dried they can be shelled and stored like any other dried bean. And yes, compost the removed shell material.

#4 Winter Squash –

For me there is only one choice…Butternut. This squash is incredible for storage (6 – 12 months), a reliable plant for gardeners (productive & vigorous), and packed with nutrition…and it tastes amazing. Butternut is a perfect plant for our climate…handles dry condition really well and doesn’t need perfect soil. And yes, you can seed save. Speaking of seeds…

Butternut seeds contain fats, protein, minerals, and calories…basically concentrated survival nutrition. These seeds really help solve the whole survival “fat” problem…they have lots of fat. Harvest the seeds from mature fruit, roast em, store them properly, enjoy the flavor and the nutrition! Look, you can grind them into flour or simply add them to a stew…or eat as a convenient snack. It’s all good…it’s all nutrition.

I will mention that two alternatives would be Hubbard squash and Seminole pumpkin. From my research both are good survival options, and both would do good here. I have no personal experience with them as of now…next year I will do a test plot. Treat them like you would Butternut squash.

#5 Sunflowers –

I bet that one surprised you. Sunflowers may be one of the most underrated survival/preparedness crops there is. It is a fantastic source of fats, oil, protein, and calories. The stalks and leaves can also be used for animal feed. The flowers are magnets for pollinators which support all the other garden crops. If you don’t use the stalks and leaves for animal feed there will be lots of biomass for composting.

For our climate they can handle our sun, can handle the heat, and can tolerate dry conditions pretty well. Our variety choice would probably be Black Oil sunflowers for their high oil content. I’ve never grown them before…on the list for next year. For snacking and stews I would go with Mammoth or Russian Giant. Those two varieties have larger edible seeds and are easier to process but contain less oil than Black Oil.

Along with the leftover stalks and flowers being animal feed, the flowers themselves are really beautiful and can provide a big morale boost. Once all the harvesting is done, if you don’t have animals they are great for composting due to their large amount of biomass.

Sunflower seeds are really nutritious, they provide a concentrated source of calories, fat, protein, and…what’s really cool…micronutrients. The seeds can be eaten raw, roasted, or you can grind them into sunflower “butter.” The seeds can also be stored long-term if you keep them dry and cool. That is a huge benefit…long-term storage food reserve. Sunflower seeds can be pressed to extract oil, which is then used for cooking, adding calories, and could be used as a barter item. The oil has a long shelf-life if stored properly.

Sunflowers are relatively easy to grow in most climates and soils…even our moderately amended local soil. They tolerate drought better than many other crops, which is valuable in hot, dry regions like ours. And obviously, you can seed-save and produce next year’s crop.

Now…how much do you need of each?

Why do I ask that? Well, if you want to survive off your garden you gonna need to know how much you are going to use…and then that tells you how much you are gonna need to grow. And that tells you how much space is needed for your garden.

So how much do you need of each of the 5 foods?

So here is the basis of my estimates…

Here’s a nice info-graphic presentation…

< click the image to enlarge or right-click to download the image >

Bottom line…5,400 pounds of food from your garden! That’s almost 3 tons of garden production!!! Whoa!!!! That is a lot of garden production. I don’t think I’ve gotten more than about 1,000lbs of produce from any garden I’ve ever had. I would be hard pressed to think I could grow that much. However, there are only 2 of us…so we could get by on about 60% of that list. Still, that’s a huge demand…3200lbs of garden production.

So, how would you produce that much from your garden? Well, let’s get into that a bit…in Part #2.

Click here to read Part #2 article →


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What exactly should you do to prepare for 2024?

There are really two parts to what I am thinking, this post is Part #1 and won’t be that long relative to many, actually most, of my posts/articles. I am not sure when Part #2 will be ready…it will be an abridgment of my views, my perspective on the world today, and my assessment of where it is all heading…mostly in 2024, or at least starting in 2024. I guess it will be a manifesto of sorts; I will keep you posted.

This is the post where I will just be to the point and blunt about what I think a person should prepare for. And no, I am not being a hypocrite, I am preparing the same things for my particular situation…as should anyone.

The background to this is two-fold; 1) my assessment of where the world and the USA is today. Number 2 comes from multiple conversations with my wife over the last 3 months.

As for #1, if you have been coming to the site for awhile, or have researched my articles, you know my feelings of where the world and the USA is today…the status of it all. So no need to regurgitate that here in this post. I think the coming article will probably summarize a lot of that. For now let’s concentrate on the conversations with my dear wife which brought about this specific post.

Periodically my wife and I will discuss where we are in our lives, pretty much all aspects of it. We will talk finances, home projects, spirituality status, where our community and church is in relation to the rest of the country/world, and what are the biggest threats she & I face, etc.. Then we talk about what we should and/or could do in each of those areas to help mitigate those realistic threats/issues/problems/deficiencies.

As we recently reviewed those areas where we could/should improve on, it was clear that we should improve our food production and preservation capability. Yes, that means mostly improved gardening stuff. I will post something on that soon, but that project is going very well.

However, as I started contemplating what I should/could suggest to all website visitors I was stumped a little…until this morning (Monday, 1/9). This morning I felt a huge and serious ‘shift’ in my world. I am not sure if it was the world in general or just my world making a very substantial shift. Part of that shift event was knowing exactly what I needed to put out there as the #1 prep item to suggest to all my website visitors/users for 2024.

What I am not going to do is tell you ‘why’ I am suggesting this…I am just suggesting, strongly suggesting, this for you to consider. How you do it…or even ‘if’ you do it…is entirely up to you. But, I think you would be wise to give this some consideration…maybe a lot of consideration…a lot of serious consideration.

So here it is…

Part A (food) –

Store as much food as you can, and then store it as safely as you can against all threats of losing it…or having it taken.

If you want to know my thoughts on food acquisition and storage…my ‘layering’ method…then simply < click here >

Part B (water) –

Store as much potable water as you can, acquire multiple ways to harvest water, and acquire the ability to purify water for drinking and cooking.

You can only realistically store a certain amount of water, max that out. More importantly acquire multiple ways to harvest and then create safe (i.e. purified) drinking water…including highly-portable methods. Remember, you can only carry so much water…but something as simple as a LifeStraw is highly portable and a very good method of providing safe drinking water.

If you want to know my thoughts on water storage and purification…my layering method…the simply < click here >

Summary –

That’s it…nothing more to add. I feel strongly that I should suggest this to you. My reasoning is private and I won’t share it on this website. If I know you personally you can ask me directly.

Food & Water in 2024…early in 2024…as early as you possibly can. Please get to work on this.

Part #2 is now out “the collpase” < click here to read it >


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Lessons Learned – Garden 2023

  1. Soil is Everything!

I put together some nice raised bed planter boxes…good call on my part. But, what really made the difference was the super high quality soil I made up for those boxes. Plenty of compost, mostly compost actually. And mostly organic fertilizer to help amend the soil even more.

  1. Gotta go Vertical

When you limit yourself on space, as I did with the raised bed planter boxes, you still gotta have space for those plants. I learned that next year I will trellis cucumbers, pole green beans, snap/snow peas, and maybe my small sweet watermelons.

Added benefit…I can grow less sun tolerant veggies under the trellis framework. I will be using the 16’ cattle panels for the trellis work.

And I am going to try tomatoes on cattle panels as well. The tomato cages don’t work for me. I tired wood frames and string this year…fail! So I will try the cattle panel method next year and see how that goes.

  1. Quality not Quantity

I did plenty of planting this year…wanted to see what and how plants would grow with the new system. Yeah…planted too much for sure. Next year I am adopting the “square foot” system and going for just what we eat on a daily basis.

Yup…that means one, ONE, a single zucchini plant!!!

  1. Squash can take over Everything!

So my wife loves squash…butternut, straight neck, etc. So I made sure I planted plenty of it…WRONG! That stuff took off and I can’t the pick-up truck now. On a sad note it took out some of my new raspberry bushes…just choked em out.

Next year the squash gets planted on the outside of two sides of the garden and it will be ‘trained’ to go for the outside chain link fence for some vertical space.

  1. Water Timers

I put it a pretty decent drip and soaker irrigation system. Had to run the soakers during the daylight hours to keep up with the plants and evaporation. This coming year I will have about twice the raised bed boxes and the watering will need to be rotated to ensure the right amount of water getting tot he plants. Timers will be a must to ensure that everything is getting watered regardless of my attention or not.\

I am also planning on ‘grouping’ my boxes so that plants that needed similar watering can be grouped together on the same timer.

  1. Fence

I mentioned in a previous year’s article that one of my dogs thinks organic fertilizer pellets are nothing more than appetizers. So I put up a flimsy wire fence to keep her out of the garden area. Oooooopppppppsssssss…she is smarter than me…she learned she can just push her nose into it and it separates. She then has access to all of the little nuggets goodies she thinks I left just for her to gobble up.

  1. Ground cover between boxes.

I guess I should call this something more appropriate…”Weed/Grass Control”.

You can guess by the title that I will be putting down landscape cloth between the boxes to suppress all of the weeds and grass that invariably will do as well, or better, than the plants in the planters. Downside…I could’ve sold it for hay.


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Plan B, Plan C, and Strawberries…

So let’s do this in reverse order…strawberries first. But stick around for the Plan B & Plan C part…or jump directly to it.

You know there is always method to my madness 🙂

Strawberries –

Last spring (2022) I put in an amazing small strawberry patch, 8 plants total. Did a great job of prepping the containers, getting compost for a local source, and setting in the plants correctly with love and care. They all died.

Yup, the compost was too ‘hot’…meaning the compost hadn’t sat long enough and was extremely high in nitrogen. Yeah, the new plants ‘burned up’ and died…basically chemical burning from the nitrogen.

So for 2 weeks I flushed the boxes with lots of water and got the nitrogen out, planted 6 plants, and they flourished like crazy. I wasn’t looking for berry production, I just wanted to get strong healthy plants to produce lots of runners to create a large patch. And it worked well. I think the final count by the end of fall was 52 great looking plants ready to hibernate for the winter after I mulched them in.

Then spring hit and I was patient and didn’t ‘unmulch’ them too early which resulted in a great looking strawberry patch with 50+ plants ready to give us plenty of big, juicy, sweet berries. That amount of plants would produce about 25 – 40 pints of berries if all went well. ‘If’ being the operative word…and it didn’t.

I am switching my gardening style over to water-soluble fertilizers…mostly fish emulsion based, but others as well. So, early in the spring it was time to give my plants a good start with fertilizer to bring em up right…a nice dose of fertilizer. Each plants already had a nice bunch of berries started and it looked to be a bumper crop. And that was fine with me because I love strawberries!

I won’t go into all the details but it was a heavily weighted nitrogen fertilizer and I put too much mixture on each plant. Within 10 days all of the berries that had been on the plants were dead or completely gone. Well, with the exception of the 5 berries that I picked, each the size of a marble.

So what happened? Uh, strawberry plants don’t like a bunch of nitrogen…at all…especially in the spring with fruit on the plant. So I had to do some research on the best way to fertilize strawberry plants. Yeah, I know what you are thinking…you’re right.

Generally speaking, I will be using a 10-10-10 water-soluble fertilizer…and apply it after the plants have produced its fruit but well before fall sets it, probably about late August. This will give me strong healthy plants, plenty of runners if I need them, and the plants will be ready for the next year. If the plant flowering looks too thin and spotty I will add bonemeal as needed to the soil and water it in generously.

But what does that have to do with Plans B & C?????? Ahhhhhh yes. Remember I was expecting 25 – 40 pints of berries earlier this spring. Yeah, well, didn’t work out so well did it? But what does that actually mean?

25 – 40 pints of strawberries means 3000 – 4700 calories, 180 – 285 grams of dietary fiber, and most importantly…5300 – 8400mg of vitamin C. OK, the absolute heaven of eating them as well…meaning to help stave off food fatigue. So how would you replace that in a grid-down prepper scenario?

Plan B & C, etc. –

Late last August we had a hail storm hit us…destroying our garden completely. And I just shared how I screwed up the strawberry patch this year. Fortunately for us we are not in a grid-down prepper situation or in dire need to eat from our garden last year, or depend on our strawberries this year. But what if it had been different…and we were dependent on both?

My point, we would have been fine. We have sufficient and appropriate food storage to handle a worst case scenario. We would not have starved and we have enough supplies to replant a garden.

So it looks something like this:

  • Plan A – Buy our food at the store just like normal.
  • Plan B – Supplement store-bought food with garden produce.
  • Plan C (hard times) – Plant larger garden and reduce store-bought food. Barter food with neighbors as needed and appropriate.
  • Plan D (hard times, limited store available food) – Plant much larger garden, supplement with food storage, utilize green house for additional food production. Barter food with neighbors as needed and appropriate.
  • Plan E (very hard times, no store available food) – Plant seriously larger garden, supplement with food storage, utilize second green house for additional food production. Barter food with neighbors as needed and appropriate.

Will my plans work? I have no idea with complete certainty. I do know that without a plan I will fail. But my plans do give me a framework to build on. Starting with Plan B I have to acquire gardening skills and supplies. With Plan C I have to have considerably more garden supplies plus multiple years worth of seed bank. Plans D & E require that I have either built, or have the supplies to build, two greenhouses. That gives me a clear path on what to buy, when, and either store the supplies or produce with them.

Something to think about…for a family of four, to have a large enough garden to feed yourselves you are realistically looking at about 2 acres of well planned, good quality land. Put in your head about 1-1/2 football fields of garden. Yup, that is about what you are looking at on average. Yes, you can go vertical, do ‘square foot gardens’, greenhouse gardening, etc.

My point is this…have you done enough planning to put in over a football field of garden? If not, how long will your food storage last your family? And no, I didn’t ask if you had already put in a huge garden, I asked if you’ve done enough planning to do so.

When it comes to long-term food storage the general rule of thumb is one case (6 cans) of #10 cans of food is enough food for one person for one month. How many cases of food do you have? A family of four would need 48 cases of #10 cans of food stored…properly stored. How many cases of food do you have? Are they all stored in one place such as your house? What happens if your house is flooded, burns down, or is vandalized?

Plan B & C: Generally Speaking –

prepper ics planing section long-term and special projects planning branch responsibilitiesThe point to this article is get you thinking about back-up plans. And back-ups to your back-ups…with every aspect of prepping.

Consider self-defense tools (i.e. guns & Ammo). First, do you have some? Second, are they all stored in the same place? What is your plan if your guns are confiscated or stolen? What happens if they have a part that breaks?

Is all your ammo in one place? What if it is destroyed, stolen, or confiscated? Can you reload your spent brass?

What I am asking you to do is simple…review your plans. What is your Plan A? Do you have a Plan B…if so, what is it? Do you have a Plan C…if so, what is it? Does you family know what your plans are and how to execute them?Basic emergency preparedness for emergencies, disasters and grid-down. Plan Planning

And this review process applies to ALL aspects of prepping!

If you need a guide to help you through this review the 7 Common Risks & Threats to help get you organized in this effort. Another helpful guide would be to review the ‘layering’ aspect of prepping in regards to the 7 Common Risks & Threats – Layering.

Summary –

In April of this year I wrote that I believe that it all falls apart by the end of 2024…ALL of it! < click here to read the article > No, that is not a 100% certain revelatory fact. It is what I see coming based on the cumulative of current events as of April 2023…and as of today as well.

I am thinking it would be a pretty good idea with you and I were ready for that ‘fall’ of America. That way we can protect our families and communities/congregations as best we can. And it could be very, very ugly in this country by then. Then again, it might be all roses and butterflies with pink unicorns for all. But at least you would be ready if it is not that fantasy land and no one gets a unicorn.

Do you have to be perfect in your planning and prepping? That goal is impossible, let alone remotely realistic. But you can do your best and together we can do this!

PLan for bugging out and bugging in. failure to plan will bring failure and that means death or injury to you and your family.


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TIP: Canned powdered milk gone bad…

Don’t throw that powered milk away if it has gone bad! Use it as part of a garden fertilizer program.

Yup, that old, out-of-date canned powered milk makes a great fertilizer when it is no longer drinkable. Cut the milk mixture by 50% and use it in place of water about once a month during the growing season. The milk has all kinds of great stuff in it that will benefit your plants like bacteria, calcium, etc.

Don’t use it more than once a month. Also, as commonsense dictates…apply it once and watch your plants’ reaction, then apply accordingly.

If you have an aphid infestation you can use a 25% milk solution (75% water) and wipe the leaves with it to help fight the aphid infestation.

If you are making compost at home you can mix in powered milk with the final compost product just before you apply it in the garden. Adds lots of good nutrition, etc.

So now you don’t have to throw away that old canned powered milk 🙂

If you need a source to buy non-fat dry milk for storage you can < click here >


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Food Fatigue & PB&J

“Food Fatigue” is real and I have experienced it…you probably have too. Food Fatigue is simply when you get tired of eating the same food day after day to the point where you want to slit your wrists. Okay, maybe not bad enough to do physical damage to yourself, but you get the idea.

As I have been working on the garden non-stop for several months I started thinking about Food Fatigue. First off, we are not growing enough food to eat all year long…just not enough garden space or skill/knowledge…or desire.

Hear me on this one…I also wanted to ensure that we have enough herbs and spices on hand for spaghetti sauce to go with all the tomatoes we are growing, enough TVP bacon bits to go with the green beans, etc. And all of that prompted me to think about a food, or combination of foods, to eat to help stave off Food Fatigue.

Remember how many calories you will probably need during tough time (a.k.a. emergencies, disasters, and grid-down)…somewhere north of 2500 for a woman and probably well above 3000 for a man. A young man (14 – 30) doing lots of hard work would need more than 4000 – 6000 calories per day to stay healthy. With that in mind I wanted to not only alleviate Food Fatigue but supply enough calories as well. Then the idea of “other” nutritional requirements crept into my thought process…so much for chocolate chip cookies! Bummer 🙁

One of the things I like to eat for breakfast at least 2 – 4 times a week is peanut butter and jelly toast. Yup, and I love it!

I decided that this simple food was delicious, tasty, and stayed with me for the entire morning. And sometimes I eat it on healthy bread, other times I eat it on really good tasting Arrowhead Country Style Potato bread. Yum, yum! It met all the initial requirements but how did it stack up nutritionally…dang, a tough question. I don’t like tough questions when it comes to food…hence, my earlier comment on chocolate chip cookies.

So here we go, to meet 1/3rd of the daily 3000 calorie count for me (1000 for breakfast).

Since I am saying we will run out of bread, and bread making capability, I am relying on our canned bread…Pilot Bread Crackers. And yes, they are very, very tasty and last a very long time…20 – 30 years properly canned such as the product from Saratoga Farms.

So here is how it looks…

PB&J Crackers only –

PB&J Crackers with milk –

PB&J Sandwich with milk –

PB&J comparison crackers vs sandwich –

Note: Don’t worry about the ‘fat’ category. Most of us will easily burn that ‘fat’ doing normal daily survival-type work.

Summary –
  1. Learn what food fatigue is…as it applies to you and your family.
  2. Learn what it takes for you to avoid food fatigue with foods that appeal to you.
  3. Figure out which is healthy…and which is chocolate chip cookies! Yeah, gotta have a cookie now and then 🙂

Okay, bottom line…peanut butter and jelly on pilot bread (a.k.a. crackers) is a decent combination. PB&J with a high quality bread is even better. And of course, don’t forget the milk…ice cold to make your teeth hurt.


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Time to be thinking spring…garden, orchard, & berry patch!

Yup, yesterday morning got me thinking about spring…garden, orchard, berry patch…YEA!

I’ve been putting it off because of weather, mud mostly, but yesterday was one of my most favorite times of spring (ok, late winter)…pruning my fruit trees.

I spent a couple of hours hacking away at my apple, peach, cherry trees like a man in love. Okay, that sounds a bit oxymoronish I know. But I am pretty harsh when it comes to pruning. Now remember, several of my trees are only coming into their third year, the other 4 are only starting their 2nd year. The single most important goal for new trees…setting really, really good root system. The #2 goal is as strong a trunk as you can get.

#3 is great shape…meaning strong branches, well-formed and correctly placed. To get the branches and shape right…I am pretty brutal when it comes to pruning…at least when the trees are young. I think the main idea…keep the center of the tree as open as possible to allow plenty of light in to ripen the fruit. And of course you want to ensure strong branches to begin with…and that means directing as much of the tree’s energy to producing those strong branches.

So the late winter, dormant, pruning is done. Now, I have to find the right location and dig 4 more large holes (3’x’3) for the 4 dormant apple trees my neighbor gave be last year. They have been sitting in a planter pot just waiting for me to not be lazy and get them in the ground. Maybe Saturday…we’ll see.

But the most fun yesterday…planting 30 dormant raspberry bare-root starts. One of my buddies, and a good neighbor, has a huge raspberry and blackberry patch. He offered some of his canes that had grown outside of his patch…duh, of course I took him up on the offer. We dug up 30 really good looking canes, some of which already had the new starts hiding in the ground several inches below the surface.

He also turned me on to a new product called Agri-Gel. It’s a formulation that absorbs and holds water to roots. The swollen crystals adhere to plant roots, reducing transplant shock. Safe, nontoxic, easy to use. Useful for garden seedlings as well as woody plants. Highly recommended for brambles and conifers. Let’s see if I can tell a difference.

I already had my holes dug, had filled them several times with water to get the surrounding area saturated with water. Remember, I live in a dry part of the country, starting out with moist soil is a must. I didn’t use the native sandy soil. I did a mix of my local compost plus Grow King composted steer manure. No added fertilizer at all in the hole to start out. Brambles should not be planted with fertilizer, wait till they are well established before fertilizing.

I saturated the holes really well with water after planting. I will do a light & loose layer of weed-free straw as a mulch today. I will also cut back the canes to 6” – 12” above the surface. Remember, it is not the old canes that will produce the fruit…it will be the new shoots that come up that will produce the fruit.

I checked on my strawberry patch when I was done. Some of the protective winter straw mulch has gotten a little thin but is still protecting my plants. I am not quite ready to uncover them yet, some cold weather still ahead. But they are close, within a month I am pretty sure. I will look for the new growth on the plants, then they get uncovered…should the weather look promising.

I am behind the curve on building my new above ground containers for the garden this year. I am just running out of time each week. I have already scrapped the cattle panel green house due to lack of time. But, I won’t ignore the planting boxes…and you know why…we must grow food this year!

So how are your garden, orchard, and patch projects coming along?

 

 

 

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Garden: Orchard Fall Maintenance

January 2021 I started our fruit orchard…with 3 trees. So no, the picture to the left is not our orchard, just a nice picture to make you feel good and impress you.

We started our orchard with 2 apple trees and 1 peach tree. In January 2022 we added 2 sweet cherry trees and 2 more peach trees. One of the peach trees didn’t make it.

All of the above were bare root stock and this was my first real attempt at planting bare root stock and it went well. I should share that experience with ya’ll in another article. In March my neighbor was planting a large orchard…122 trees in all. I helped him and when all was done he was out of space and had 4 apple trees left over; 1 in it’s own planter/container, another planter/container had 3 apple trees in it. All trees were a little on the puny side. He gave them to me for helping. Nice! And unexpected…a blessing.

I transplanted the single tree shortly after I got home and it is doing really well. The container/planter with the 3 trees I kept in the pot. They weren’t dormant and I knew that I would probably kill all 3 if I tried to untangle their roots and plant them. So, I kept them on the east deck and took really good care of them. They are all doing well and I will transplant them once they go dormant this winter…after I untangle their roots.

My maintenance system/process is fairly simple and based on the growing conditions here at our place. I will write more about planting them, but for now I will speak to my “maintenance” process. After the windy season, usually mid to end of June, and again in the fall after the weather turns cold but well before they lose their leaves, I perform the routine. And, I only plan on doing so for the first 2 – 3 years the trees are in the ground. After that, the tree will only be tended/maintained as needed.

This is my second article using this new article system with LibreOffice suite…basically from my Impress presentation (PowerPoint equivalent) program into pictures for posting. Then adding a link at the bottom if anyone would like to download the basics in PDF format. So here you go…

< click here to download the PDF file >


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GARDEN: Strawberry Patch 2022 Fall Update

OK, this is a new kind of post for me. Yes, it is about our strawberry patch, that stays the same. What is different is how I produce it.

Recently, about 2 weeks ago, I upgraded from our old laptop computer to a new unit. Our old one was running system software and programs from 16 years ago. Yeah, ancient stone tablets…I know. The main problem was the old laptop keep heating up and shutting down…losing work in the process. We didn’t have a lot of choice, had to upgrade.

Along with the computer upgrade I wanted to get away from Microsoft products…that meant leaving Microsoft Office…Yea! After a whole lot of research I decided on LibreOffice suite. It basically looks and acts just as Microsoft Office…but it is free! I have been using it for two weeks, and there is a small learning curve, but it is working out great.

So, I am using LibreOffice Impress (Microsoft Powerpoint) to take photos, adding narratives, and then producing JPEG pictures for the actual post. Then I take the Impress presentation and create a PDF file to attach to the post so folks can download it should they desire to do so.


So now on with the strawberry info…

I have been working on our strawberry patch all summer. My goals were to: 1) establish the original 6 plants in the most healthy state as possible, 2) increase the size of the patch for next year. Goal #1…done! The original 6 plants are in fantastic shape and produced a ton of runners. From those runners I was able to start a whole bunch of “daughter” plants.

So the first round of transplanting yielded 15 plants that I put into 5 more containers. That project can be looked at in a previous post < click here >. Once I got those plants transplanted I was able to start 10 more “daughter” plants. That was successful…and I mean it went really well and the new plants looked great! But I was out of containers and I wanted to test my new raised bed concept.

Next year we are going with raised bed gardening. We tried “post hole” and it just didn’t work out. We ruled out conventional gardening due to the soil and HUGE amount of amending we would have to do…simply wouldn’t make sense from a work or cost perspective.  So we wanted to try container and raised bed styles. This past summer we tried container gardening and it went well. But, I could tell it wouldn’t be practical for any kind of large gardening…meaning, we simply couldn’t grow enough food in containers. But, it would work for something like strawberries. The last of the strawberry patch plants gave us the opportunity to test our raised bed plans.

The last of the plants would go in a 2′ (wide) x 12′ (long) x 14″ (height) that I would build myself. I didn’t want the planters to be complicated, expensive, or difficult to build. So I went with four 2″ x 6″ x 12′ along with some scrap 4″ x 4″ that I had laying around. Yeah, I don’t throw out any lumber anymore…its worth way too much money and comes in useful down the road. I went with a 14″ tall bed, 10″ – 11″ will be soil, then a little bit of wood chips on top, and enough space to allow the water to not flow off and cause erosion problems. I only needed the stacked 2×6’s for a total of 11″ height since strawberry roots only go about 6″ – 9″ deep.

I decided on 2 stacked 2″x6″ boards because they were about 2/3rds the price of a single 2″x12″ board.

FYI…”experts” have opinions on the ideal soil depth in raised beds ranging from 8″ – 11″. Problem is there is no one ideal depth for soil. The depth of the soil is strictly dependent on the plant type…and it varies quite a bit…6″ – 18″ more or less. Here is a chart to give you an general idea…

And even with the chart you can make adjustments…such as with tomatoes. You can actually plant tomatoes horizontally. Since water uptake is the main need for tomatoes they don’t generally care about how the roots are arranged, just the fact that they can get enough water into the plant.

So here are the specifics of the project. You can click each picture/graphic to enlarge it. At the end of the article you can click the link to download PDF file.

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< click here to download the PDF file >


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