LED Lenser T-Square 240 Lumen Tactical Flashlight

880229 LED Lenser-240 lumens T square Flashlight note: article first appeared in December 2015

Back in January of this year I did a review on a tactical flashlight that I have been using for a number of years now. It is the LED Lenser V2. I absolutely love that flashlight! It has done everything I’ve ever asked of it and then some. It has never failed me, that is saying something.

The V2 was always plenty bright enough, tough as nails, fit my carbine’s vertical grip perfectly and was just an all-round perfect tactical flashlight. It was so good actually that I made it my family’s all-purpose flashlight. Yes, that means we standardized on it.

Then LED Lenser discontinued manufacturing it. But, they supposedly replaced it with a new and improved version. I am always leery of “replacements”, they never seem to be as good. This review is all about the “T Square” replacement version (model # 880229) of the LED Lenser.

The mission:

“A single flashlight that is capable of operating in the most demanding of tactical environments, bright enough to see a minimum of 100 yards, and battery efficient.”

Here were the flashlight restrictions and requirements:

  • Metal & tough enough to handle any reasonable field or tactical handling for our family/group.
  • Lightweight & compact enough for pocket use.
  • AAA or AA batteries.
  • Water resistant enough to handle any rain and momentary submersion.
  • Bright enough for any tactical weapon usage. Minimum beam distance 100 yards.
  • Narrow light beam.
  • Fit any 1” light mount.

880229 LED Lenser 240 lumen T square FlashlightThe flashlight specs:

V2 (original) T-Square (new)
Lumens 104
  • 240 high beam
  • 25 low beam
Lighting Modes 1 (2) High & Low Beam
Beam Distance 180 yards
  • 197 yards high beam
  • 60 yards low beam
Length 4.5” 4.5”
Diameter 1” 1”
Weight 3.6oz 3.56oz
Batteries 3 x AAA 3 x AAA
Housing Aluminum Aluminum
Water Submersion Rating IPX4 IPX4
Finish Semi-Gloss Black Matte Black
Burn Time 4 hrs
  • 4 hrs high beam
  • 25 hrs low beam
  • Momentary on
  • Constant on
  • High beam – Momentary on
  • High beam – Constant on
  • Low beam – Momentary on
  • Low beam – Constant on

I’ve owned this line of flashlights for a very long time. I think I had one of the first V2’s that hit the market. I really like the way they feel, and how sturdy and dependable they are. The first model had a slick/smooth switch cap in the end of the tube. I am not talking “slick” as in a good thing, I am saying there was no positive grip to it. Then they upgraded to a nice button with checker boarding in the rubber. That really made this flashlight a winner.

So, I open the box, excited as always anytime I get a new product to review, and what do I see? This stupid orange target on the switch button cap. I mean bright orange and it looks just like a clay pigeon. I hate that!

LED Lenser 880229 T square FlashlightOK, that relieved a little stress. Can anyone in their right mind tell me why a company would go with a bright orange anything on a tactical flashlight? I mean seriously…do they think we can’t find the button without it being bright orange? And another bad thing is the button cap is now back to being “slick” as in slippery.

Well, that is the downside. Everything else about this flashlight rocks!

The finish on the flashlight is better than before, less reflective. I also found that the finish added to my ability to hold onto the tube. This is especially helpful when your hands are wet with body fluids or something similar.

LED Lenser T square Flashlight 240 lumens 880229One of the first things I noticed, after the bright orange crap, was a distinctive red band around the inside of then lens right below the flashlight’s lip. I liked the “look” of it but had no idea what the purpose or advantage would be. So I kept looking at it from different angles. Low and behold I figured it out. While it may be unintentional it is interesting. I held a V2 model up to the new model and saw that from the side view the red band inside the lens drastically reduced the amount of light seen from the sides.

LED-Lenser-240TsquareFlashlight-004aYeah, think that one through for a minute. If you are trying to reduce your night-time profile you want to use red light. But for most tactical purposes you want to keep your overall location pretty much to yourself, right? So there you are in a warehouse, the middle of the night, using your new 240T on low beam. The red reduces the amount of light seen from the side and reduces the other guy from being able to get a solid “fix” on you. Sure, they can see your beam out in front of you but it is hard to spot the origin of the beam. The red simply helps keep you more covert.

Well, while I was playing around with that idea I tried shining one light on the front of the other light’s front. The light without the red in the lens reflected back brightly. The red lens lights barely reflected at all. So another nice feature at covertness.

Here is the biggest change to the new 240T light…the button switch. There are multiple positions now for the switch. The V2 had a partial depress would give you the beam that would turn off as soon as you let up the pressure on the switch. Fully depress the switch and the beam would stay on until you fully depressed the switch again. The new 240T has a high beam and a low beam light.

You activate the light just as before, but this time when you partially depress it the first time you get the high beam. Next time you partially depress it you get the low beam. Same goes for full depression of the switch for constant on. You have to do the depressing quickly for the switch to go from high to low.

What I mean is it alternates between coming on with the high, then the low beam. But it “resets” after about 5 seconds to come back on with the high beam.

So I have mixed feelings and opinion about the whole high/low beam thing. The low beam keeps your projected light much closer in and significantly increases burn time. And that is a really nice thing. I think the vast majority of my flashlight time is more closely associated with low beam needs than high beam capability.

I wanted to verify that Amazon had them for sale. While I was looking at the product to validate it, I noticed that there was a review with a “one star” rating. So here is the 1-star review, “When i received I saw different than this in the picture, and when I was using did not work.”

Yeah, I don’t put any value to that review whatsoever. It reads like they are from Russia. I think it was a “plant” to run down the product vs. what someone who actually bought and used the flashlight. I have bought a bunch of these flashlights over the years; never, not once, did they arrive broken or misrepresented. Actually, I have yet to break one of these flashlights or even burnout a bulb.

Other than a couple of subtle differences, the newer version flashlight is as rock solid as the V2. And I love the V2!

Final note, the flashlight carries the name “Leatherman” and I believe this is a marketing thing only. I don’t think this is a true Leatherman designed, engineered, and manufactured product. But, that being said, it is still a quality piece of gear.

My recommendation…”BUY!”  I did…multiple times.

Buy It !

Amazon leatherman LED Lenser T2 T square FlashlightTip: The LED Lenser tactical light fits perfectly in a pistol magazine pouch.LED Lenser in pistol single mag pouch




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LED Lenser V2 Tactical Flashlight

LED Lenser Flashlight V2note: article first appeared in January 2015

Let me start this review of the LED Lenser V2 by describing what I was looking for in a flashlight.

The mission was:

“A single flashlight that was compact, lightweight and bright enough to standardize on a single brand & model.”

Here were the flashlight requirements:

  1. Metal & tough enough to handle any field or tactical handling.
  2. Lightweight & compact enough for pocket use.
  3. AAA or AA batteries.
  4. Water resistant/proof enough to handle any rain and momentary submersion.
  5. Bright enough for any tactical weapon usage. Minimum beam distance 100 yards. Narrow beam.
  6. Fit any 1” light mount.

To sum it all up – This flashlight does the job in every aspect, excels at each requirement.

So here are the technical details –LED Lenser Flashlight V2

  • Length: 4-1/2”
  • Diameter: 1”
  • Weight: 3.6oz
  • Tough aluminum housing with checker boarding for sure non-slip grip.
  • Uses 3 AAA batteries.
  • IPX4 water resistant rating (it’s not designed as a submersible light but is water resistant under pressure).
  • 94 – 104 lumens (brightness) in a narrow beam that can reach nearly 180+ yards.
  • 4 hour constant burn time with medium quality batteries.
  • Finish: Black matte

I first started using this brand/model of flashlight nearly 8 years ago and I’ve never been disappointed. Actually, I’ve been CAA Comand Arms foregrip flashlightthrilled with it! It is a great size for my pants pocket and fits any flashlight holder on a spare belt mounted spare magazine holder that I use. I use a Command Arms Accessories Flashlight Holder Grip Adapter on my AR and this light fits it perfectly. The light shines a very bright narrow beam of light that exceeds my expectations of a tactical light. The light is not so bright that it will washout my vision in the dark but plenty bright enough for me to do whatever I need to with it. The distance the beam goes is amazing for such a little unit running on AAA batteries.

My Duracell batteries will last well over two years in the light depending on how much I use it. The battery carrier/cartridge is absolutely high quality, as is the entire housing. I felt the quality and close tolerances as soon as I began to unscrew the battery cartridge. This flashlight is a top-quality piece of equipment.

The checker   boarding on the body is substantial but not uncomfortable, they struck a happy medium. It has never slipped in my hand under any conditions, wet or dry. The newer models have a thumb switch that has ‘nubs’ on it as well to ensure that your thumb won’t slip off. And speaking of the switch, it does have the momentary-on capability or the ‘click-on’ for a constant light.

This flashlight has replaced all my other flashlights except my big 4 x D-cell Mag light that I keep under the front seat of the truck. You won’t need another flashlight (other than a ‘tire check’) once you’ve tried out this keeper, you’ll love it! Use with absolute confidence.LED Lenser Flashlight V2

The price on this can vary from about $28 – $40 out on the Internet so shop around. I’ve bought mine (6 of them now) off of eBay.

Note: If you are going to submerse your tactical light for any length of time you might not want to search elsewhere or waterproof the Lenser yourself. I don’t think it would hold up too long underwater but I haven’t done any conclusive testing on it for that particular mission.





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without expressed written permission from AHTrimble.com
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Princeton Tec Tactical Quad Headlamp

Princeton Tec headlamp reviewnote: article first appeared in May 2016

I can’t tell you how much I enjoy, no, truly love my original model Petzl Tactika XP headlamp. It is exactly what I want a headlamp to be. But, why am I talking about a Petzl when I am reviewing a Princeton Tec headlamp? Simple, the original model Petzl Tactica XP is the standard by which I will, I must, judge all other headlamps.

Original Petzl Tactika XP

Original Petzl Tactika XP

Sooooooo right about now you are saying to yourself, “Why doesn’t AH just buy himself another original model Petzl Tactika XP headlamp?”

Well, I would if they still made them. Yup, Petzl (in all their stupidity) discontinued making that little gem a couple years ago. True, they still have a Tactika model but I already did a review on that new model. Yeah, it sucks compared to the original model. So I have been on a quest ever since to find a headlamp that is just as good, maybe even better. The Princeton Tec Tactical Quad is the latest contender.

As always…the mission –

“To provide personal lighting capability for night operations in a tactical or camping environment.”

Requirements & Restrictions –

  1. Must be water resistant.
  2. Must be rugged.
  3. Must provide foolproof for “red lens” operations.
  4. Must operate on AAA batteries.
  5. Should be camouflage or flat earth color.
  6. Must have headband operation capability.
  7. Should have helmet mount capability.
  8. Should contain the lamp and batteries in the same housing.

With all of that in mind I began searching for an acceptable substitute for my old Petzl. This Princeton Tec Tactical Quad model stuck out to me as possibly meeting all my criteria and it looked like it was positioned at very reasonable price point as well. What really caught my attention was the red lens that operated similarly to the Petzl as well as being the right color and compact in size.

The headlamp arrives and right off the mark I see that the housing is not the best quality plastic. There is a gasket to protects the inside components from moisture but it requires tightening a thumb screw to tighten it down. And, there is an option to use a screwdriver, but that might be a problem. What happens when someone tightens it with a screwdriver and you don’t have a screwdriver when swapping the batteries?

The four LEDs are plenty bright enough but they cast a semi-focused wide light pattern. And that pattern sends light too much to the sides for my liking. Although it is pretty focused in the middle of the pattern. I want the light to be tightly focused out in front of me. I am not worried about a “wide” light pattern, I want to see what is out in front of me. The leftover or light-bleed will allow my eyes to pick up details peripherally vs. really bright light. I don’t need the headlamp intentionally sending out a wide pattern or for everyone and their brother to see it.

PrincetonTec-002So I am not crazy about the white light pattern very much but it is acceptable.

Where this headlamp really shinned (no pun intended) was the red lens light pattern. It is really nice, great pattern, and another nice feature was the red lens, you can tell that it is in place making it tough to accidentally light up the area in white light.

The red lens simply slides up into place.

The red lens simply slides up into place.

Princeton Tec red lensSince the headlamp has three intensity settings you can adjust as needed. The picture above is at the high intensity setting.

Another really nice aspect of the headlamp is the band. It is a decent piece of expandable material that appears to be top quality.Buy It !

At $42+ online, it is at the top of my acceptable price range. But, I still give it a “buy” recommendation…but barely and only if you really need a headlamp and can’t find one anywhere else. Wait till you hear about it’s brother…the Princeton EOS model…Sweet:)








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Multitool – Ozark Trail 12-in-1

Oarktrail 12-in-1 MultiToolnote: first appeared in July 2016

Son of gun! So I was in Walmart the other day and passed by the sporting goods counter. Low and behold what did I see? A multitool that looked pretty decent. But, that isn’t what grabbed me…the price pulled my eyeballs out of my head.

I thought the price applied to something else, but I had to ask, “Are those multitools actually priced $3.97?”

“Yes sir they are,” was the associate’s reply.

I bought 10. Yeah, 10…right there, right then…on the spot.

I got home and buyer’s remorse started kicking in. I kept wondering are they worth it, should I have waited, will they be a cheap piece of crap? All of those questions were floating around in my head. I couldn’t wait to get home and get some testing done.

Well, I could go on and on about this mutlitool, but there’s no point. Here is my summary –

  • Is this a cheap piece of crap? Nope.
  • Is this going to last my lifetime? Nope.
  • Is this going to get work done? Yup.
  • Is the knife blade sharp? Yup.
  • Is the saw blade sharp? Not really, but it does cut.
  • Do the screwdriver blades work and fit screws correctly? Yup.
  • Does the file work and appear to be decent? Yup.
  • Does the bottle opener work? Yup. (But who uses a bottle opener anymore?)
  • Does the can opener work? Yup.
  • Are the tools easy to get open from the handle compartment? Not real easy but they open.
  • Do the tools snap and lock into place? Nope. But neither do my higher end multitools either.
  • Does the wire cutter actually cut wire? Yup. Just don’t try to go too big. I did 12ga with no problems. And it cur zip ties just fine as well.
  • Do the pliers pieces line up correctly and their faces flush? Yup. Surprisingly so actually.
  • Is this equal in quality to a Leatherman, SOG, or Gerber? Nope.MultiTool-Ozark-001

Bottom line – Buy this freaking multitool !

Here’s why I did…I needed ten of them. I am responsible for a 10-person response team for our church’s emergency preparedness. I’ve put together kits for each person. So when they show-up I can hand them a kit and they have some basics; knife, radio, flashlight, writing tablet, pen, etc. Now I have added a multitool to the kit. And I spent less than $40 doing so. Yup!!!

So, is a SOG, Leatherman, or Geber better? I think so. But they also cost a whole heck of a lot more money too. So, is the Ozark Trail worth the $35 Gerber? Maybe, probably not. But the Gerber is not 8 times better than the Ozark Trail but it costs 8 times more. So use the Ozark Trail until it breaks…throw it away and get another one out of storage. Repeat 6 more times as needed.

If you want to get a multitool in the hands of each family member, each group member, or just have a supply on-hand this is the way to go. I have no problem recommending this to you…especially at this price…$3.97!!  So go to the sporting good’s counter at your local Walmart and look for it. The picture at the beginning of this article and it will show you exactly what to look for.



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without expressed written permission from AHTrimble.com
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Antenna: Portable Dual Band (70cm & 2m) Radio Antenna

Antennanote: article first appeared in February 2015

One of the reasons I got into the Ham radio scene was to increase the effectiveness of handheld radios.  In my day job I use handheld radios a lot and they are critical to our wildland firefighting mission.  At work I can talk on a handheld for hundreds of miles across six counties.  I wanted similar capabilities in private life during emergencies, disasters or especially during “grid-down” when it comes.Desert

So I built a repeater using a Yaesu FT-8800r dual band mobile radio.  Along with a great repeater is a need for a great antenna.  And that antenna has to be proven reliable, sturdy, portable and something you can depend your life on.  So that was my next challenge, build an antenna to meet the repeater need but go beyond that as well.  This article covers that quest.  So let’s get going…

Mission –

General – To allow maximum performance on 70cm & 2m frequencies in the field via a highly portable, easily set-up, and sturdy antenna.

Primary – Use in conjunction with a Yaesu FT-8800R as a portable cross-band repeater (70cm & 2m).

Summary –

This portable dual-band antenna allows a user to attach the antenna to a handheld (via adapter cable) or directly to a mobile Ham radio. The antenna itself is a purchased wire antenna which is then mounted internally in ¾” PVC pipe. That section is then configurable with or without two (2) additional sections of 3” PVC pipe to vary the antenna height from 5’ – 15’ from the base.

Materials List –

DBJ-1 Designed by Dr. Ed Fong WB6IQN of UC Berkeley

DBJ-1 Antenna

  • The antenna, DBJ-1 J-Pole dual-band, designed by Dr. Ed Fong WB6IQN of UC Berkeley.
  • 1 section (10’) of Class 200 3” PVC pipe
  • 1 section (5’) of Class 200 ¾” PVC pipe
  • 1 3” threaded Class 200 PVC clean-out adapter, the inside diameter of the non-threaded end is 3”. See the picture in Step #7 for a better idea.
  • 1 threaded cap for the Class 200 PVC clean-out adapter. See Step #2 for a better idea.
  • 1  2” x 1-1/4” Class 200 PVC bushing. The 2” is male; the 1-1/4” is female.
  • 1   3” x 2” Class 200 PVC reducer. Both ends are female.
  • 3 or 4 swivel bales. See Step #15 for a better idea.
  • 30   1-1/4” wood screws with washers.
  • 1   ¼” carriage bolt, star lock washer, nut.
  • 2   2’ x 2’ pieces of ¾” marine plywood.
DBJ-1 Antenna Info –

SWR:  Less than 1.3 to 1 on both bands.
Gain:   +6dB over a rubber duck antenna

Steps –

Step #1 – The base is cut from 3/4″ marine plywood.  You want two pieces 24″ x 24″.

Step #2 – Take your 3” threaded drain clean-out plug. Cut square hole in the center of one piece of base material. It should look something like this…


Step #3 – Place cap through hole so it looks like this…

Antenna-DBJ1build2Looks like this from the backside…Antenna-DBJ1build3

Step #4 – Now line it up and chisel out a small indent in the second board for the cap to sit in. Do not cut the hole all of the way through. Using the indent for the cap to sit in will give the base added strength and prevent the cap from turning. It should look something like this…

Antenna-DBJ1build4Step #5 –  Line the two boards up, make sure everything lines up correctly, put a generous amount of construction grade adhesive (i.e. Liquid Nails) between boards, clamp, then using outdoor screws, screw boards together.

Step #6 –  Using wood screws and washers secure the cap to the board. I used 1-1/4” wood screws. It is a good idea to pre-drill the cap where the wood screws will pass through to avoid accidental cracking of the plastic cap. The washers ensure that the screws, when tightened, will not crack the plastic cap.

Antenna-DBJ1build5Step #7 –  When the boards are securely “sandwiched” then use a ¼” bolt (I used a carriage bolt), star lock washer, and locknut. Drill a hole for the bolt through the cap bottom (centered) and through the lower board. Install bolt from the bottom through the boards, through the cap and secure with lock washer and nut. Be careful to not tighten the bolt/nut too much; you don’t want to chance breaking/cracking the plastic cap.

Step #8 –  Now you have the base ready for priming and panting. I suggest a high quality primer and then multiple coats of a high quality paint to seal the wood against moisture. I suggest you tape off the threads with painter’s tape prior to painting.

Step #9 – Using the 10’ section of Class 200 PVC pipe, cut the 3” PVC pipe in half. Cement a double-female joint to each section of pipe. Use a plastic primer spray paint; paint the pipe any color you wish. It is not necessary to paint the pipe, I just think it looks cooler painted. Allow for the paint to fully dry before installing the swivel bales.

Step #10 – In the 5’ section of ¾” Class 200 PVC pipe install the wire DBJ-1 antenna according to the instructions included with the antenna.

Step #11 –  Using the 3” x 2” PVC reducer connection cut a ¾” hole in the side of the reducer as shown.

Antenna-DBJ1build6Step #12 –  Using the 2” x 1-1/4” PVC bushing cement the antenna cap (with the PL-259 connector installed) into the 1-1/4” opening in the bushing. Then cement the 2” end of the PVC bushing into the 2” opening on the 3” x 2” PVC reducer. (When ready to use the cap will fit over the male end of the PVC base.)

Step #13 –  Paint the 5’ antenna section any color you wish. Painting is not necessary but it looks cooler if it is painted. Make sure you use a plastic primer prior to painting with the finish coat.

Step #14 –  After the paint is dry on the 3” x 5’ sections of PVC pipe secure 3 or 4 of the swivel bales to one section. You will install the swivel bales on the end that does not have the joint installed. Make sure you are sufficiently lower from the end of the pipe to allow the 5’ antenna section to fit securely and snugly onto this section.

Antenna-DBJ1build6Step #15 – Allow all painted surfaces to completely dry prior to initial use.

Installation Options –

You have three installation options:

Starting with the base…


Option #1 – Install the 5’ antenna section directly onto the base.

Antenna-DBJ1build8Option #2 – Install the 5’ antenna section on one of the 3” x 5’ sections, and then install the 3” x 5’ section on to the base.

Antenna-DBJ1build9Option #3 – Install the 5’ antenna section onto the 3” x 5’ section with the swivel bales, and then that section on the remaining 3” x 5’ section. Then install the entire configured pipe/antenna onto the base.

Antenna-DBJ1build10Note #1: If you are going to be securing the antenna with Para cord, tie the Para cord onto the swivel bales prior to raising the pipes and installing onto the base.

Note #2: If you are concerned about the unit’s stability you can place sandbags or large rocks on the base to improve stability.

Note #3: I painted my antenna a combination of colors and textures that will help it blend in with the desert environment where I will be using it.




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The humble flash-bang grenade pouch…

Military surplus flashbang grenade pouchnote: article first appeared in August 2015

I am always looking for really good gear. Especially really good and inexpensive gear. The flashbang grenade pouch is one of those pieces of gear. I have come up with a number of good uses for this sized pouch. But I think I am only scratching the surface. I will leave it up to your imagination to come up with more ideas.

The flashbang grenade pouch I am talking about is this one…

military surplus flashbang grenade pouch NSN 8465-01-515-7581The approximate dimensions are:

  • 2.5″ wide
  • 2″ deep
  • 5″ – 6″ tall (adjustable)

The pouch is made from hevy-duty Cordura nylon, has a strong nylon stealth buckle, and heavy-webbing and MOLLE II compatible straps. The pouch also has a drainage grommet in the bottom of the pouch.

These pouches can be purchased online for $4.25 – $7.95 depending on the website you buy from. Shop around!  I got the best deal on eBay for a bulk purchase of them.

Here are some examples of what you can use it for…

UV-5RA with regular/standard battery (L) and the option 3800mAh (R).

UV-5RA with regular/standard battery (L) and the option 3800mAh (R).

Standard UV-5RA fits with perfectly with the pouch flap covering the entire top of the radio.

Standard UV-5RA fits with perfectly with the pouch flap covering the entire top of the radio.

UV-5RA with the larger, 3800mAh battery. Pouch flap doesn't cover quite as much of the top of the radio. But it is still a great fit and the radio is very secure.

UV-5RA with the larger, 3800mAh battery. Pouch flap doesn’t cover quite as much of the top of the radio. But it is still a great fit and the radio is very secure.











CAT - Combat Application Tourniquet

CAT – Combat Application Tourniquet

CAT - Combat Application Tourniquet

CAT – Combat Application Tourniquet










Yaesu FT-60R

Yaesu FT-60R

Yaesu FT-60R

Yaesu FT-60R


















Garmin GPS (60 series)

Garmin GPS (60 series)

Garmin GPS (60 series)

Garmin GPS (60 series)











I got you started…now figure out how you can use this great piece of gear!



2009 - 2019 Copyright © AHTrimble.com ~ All rights reserved
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See Content Use Policy for more information.

Yaesu FT-897D Ham Radio : Storing and Cases

Yaesu FT-897Dnote: article first appeared in March 2015

In this post I will go over how I store my 897D and what I store with it.

In two previous articles I went over the Yaesu FT-897D radio and accessories. Both articles are worth the read. They appeared yesterday and the day before.

So let’s go over my standard format, what is the mission for all of this?


Mission –

To safely store the radio and all components with which to operate the radio.

Requirements & Restrictions –
  1. Cases must be sturdy, at least to military specifications.
  2. Cases musty protect against dust, dirt, and water impingement.
  3. Cases should protect the contents against damage due to reasonable heights and rough handling.
  4. Cases should be low profile and not draw attention to them.

SKB i-series 3I-1711--68-C.The case I chose was the SKB i-series 3I-1711–68-C.. These cases are waterproof and as sturdy, if not more so, that Pelican cases. And they are cheaper that Pelican cases. They come with “cubed” foam ready to be cut to size for your equipment.


So this is what my pair of cases looks like for my Yaesu FT-897D –

SKB i-series 3I-1711--68-CYes, there are two cases for my 897D. One for the radio and equipment, and the other I call “support.” Each case is clearly labeled for easy identification.

Yaesu FT-897D Radio Case –SKB i-series 3I-1711--68-C Yaesu FT-897D layer 1

Bottom Level:

  • 1 x 6′ Cable, power harness with 25amp auto fuzes, radio connector on one end, Anderson Power Poles on the other end.



SKB i-series 3I-1711--68-C Yaesu FT-897D layer 2

Top Level:

  • 1 x Yaesu FT-897D radio with AT897 Autotuner attached
  • 1 x Microphone, Yaesu MH-31
  • 1 x Cable, Data, 14″
  • 1 x Cable, Antenna, 12″
  • 1 x Cable, power, 35amp auto fuze, battery clamps on one end, Anderson Power Poles on the other end.


On top of the radio I place a 897D user’s manual in a 1-gallon Ziplock bag and in an other 1-gallon Ziplock bag I place a user’s manual for the autotuner and the power switch as well as a latest copy of the US Amateur Radio Bands chart.

Yaesu FT-897D Support Case –Yaesu FT-897D support hardcase contents

Bottom Level:

  • 1 x Wire antenna, 4:1 Balum, Buxcomm B2KC41
  • 1 x Lead PL-239, 50′



Yaesu FT-897D support hardcase contentsMiddle Level:

  • 1 x PL-259 male/male connector
  • 1 x PL-259 male/female connector with ground connector
  • 1 x ground wire pipe/stake clamp




Yaesu FT-897D support hardcase contentsTop Level:

  • 1 x Power Supply, AC, 30amp, MFJ-1230MV
  • 1 x Power Supply, AC power cord
  • 1 x Screwdriver, phillips head
  • 1 x Headphones, Yaesu YH-77sta with adaptor
  • 1 x RT Systems Programming CD
  • 1 x RT Systems Programming cable
  • 1 x power cable, 6″, Anderson Power Poles to eyelets


I have given you a list of the equipment needed to run the Yaesu FT-897D Ham radio. Is it everything you might need? No, it isn’t. I didn’t include the little things like some 550 Paracord to string up the antenna. I didn’t include the battery or solar panels. This was meant strictly for the radio equipment itself.

Take this list and use it as a starting point for your specific need and mission.




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