Which Baofeng Radio should I buy??????

Baofeng UV-5r handheld radio


So which radio is right for you…or which radio should you buy?

Well, first thing to do is make sure you have read my reviews on each of the following radios…

I will go through this as if I were doing it for the first time…for myself. You see, we are all different, we all have different situations, needs, issues, missions, restrictions, etc. I can only speak for myself. But, I think going through it will help you, guide you, through the process of figuring it out for yourself.

Background –

Baofeng radios are really the only cost effective and reliable radios that are available. Yup, my opinion. True, Yaesu radios are wonderful! And if you can afford a cache of them and their accessories…great! I can’t. So Yaesu radios are out of the question. Baofeng radios are cost effective, reliable, plenty of accessories, easy to program with software, and flat out…they get the job done.

Assessment –

First thing I would do is figure out exactly what I want to use them for…their mission. For me I want to use them for daily tasks, emergencies, disasters, any security/protection work in my future, and especially for grid-down.

So the radio must be very flexible in its frequency range and ease of use. It also has to be compatible with most public emergency services entities. I run my own repeater so I don’t have a need for a long-range handheld. I have plenty of batteries and recharging capabilities on hand so I am not worried about power consumption.

They need to be tough enough but not military grade. I also need enough of them for let’s say 4 – 8 people to have one. I don’t use, nor intend to use, the 1.25m band. It is a relatively obscure band and not one in general use.

Choices and Why’s –

So here we go…

  • UV-5RA:
    • If I had a limited budget for radios and accessories
    • If I needed a large number of radios (4 or more)
  • UV-5RMHP
    • Out of the running since they are not available retail.
  • BF-F8HP
    • Only if I had a very specific identifiable need for more power for transmission and no worries about ComSec.
  • UV-5X3
    • Only if I had a very specific need for using the 1.25m band.
  • Yaesu FT-60R
    • No budget limitations of any kind.
    • No need for GMRS, FRS, or MURS frequencies.
Summary –

Sorry, I imagine this was a very anti-climatic article for most of you. But, it turned out that it was easy for me to figure out which radio is best for me. The Boafeng UV-5RA is it…hands down. One possible exception. If I had all the hand held radios I needed (UV-5RA), all the accessories that I needed for all of those radios, and I had no mobile radio…I might buy the BF-F8HP just to have the extra wattage available. But, it would not be a field-going radio…it would stay in the ComShack.

If I was starting out from scratch, had no existing radios, I would look that the BF-F8HP as the standard…but only if I was 95% sure that there would be no ComSec issues…and I could buy enough radios, primary and back-ups, PLUS all of the right accessories to cover my needs within my budget.

Anything else…you better post a reply and ask a question…or use the contact form.

And I bet…this could open up a discussion similar to AR vs AK or Sig vs Glock. But hey…bring it on 😉


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Thank you for your response. ✨





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Bug-Out or Bug-In ?

Bug Out Bug In when SHTF or grid-downnote: first appeared in December 2015

I am not crazy about the terms, but they are recognized in the “prepper” community so I will use them here a well. Actually I am OK with “bug-out” but I like “shelter in-place” a little more than “bug-in.” But you will get the information here no matter which term is used. So let me describe to you what I feel is the correct definition of “bug-out.”

 

Bug-Out –

An act of leaving your current location during an emergency.

Shelter In-Place –

An act of staying in your current location during an emergency.

Background –

Both acts are driven by a concern for safety. In the first option you are thinking that the current location is not safe. You may or may not think a destination is safe, but you know that your current location is not safe, and/or it is not going to be safe at some future time. Conversely, with the latter option you feel you are generally safer in your current location than at some other potential location or the on the trip to get to another location.

So which is the best option during disasters, emergencies and especially in “grid-down” situations?

Great question! Tough answer. And it is all dependent on the situation itself. But let me share a few guidelines and thoughts with you that might help you think through your decision process.

Making the Distinction –

First thing I ask people is where are your prep items? Items such as food, water, weapons, ammo, and all that other gear Food Storage - bug out bug in - why do you want to leave all that stuff?and equipment. Undoubtedly they answer that it is all somewhere in their house, on their property, in the garage or shed, etc. Great! The follow-up question is almost insulting in nature, “Why would you want to leave all that great stuff?” That usually gets me a blank stare or a look of disillusionment.

But it is a serious, maybe the most serious, question to ask yourself.

Doing It –

You spent a lot of money, a tremendous amount of time, and untold frustration acquiring a great set of preparations for you and your family to weather out the storm. Now you are actually considering leaving it all, or most of it, behind? Or do you plan on taking it all with you? Unless you own a large moving truck please don’t try and convince me that you can take it all with you. You can’t.

I did a little experiment a number of years ago that helped open my eyes a whole lot. I decided I would make a plan to bug-out and I wanted to take as much stuff as I possibly could. It was hilarious to say the least. I checked and validated the Bug out vehicle overloaded with all the gearweight and space of each case of food I had. Then I went and did the same for my guns & ammo. By that time I was already depressed. I had exceeded the weight and space capacity of my 1-ton truck by a large margin. And I hadn’t assessed any camping, cooking, communications, or other survival gear yet. It was bad…very, very bad.

So the first thing I did was stop my idiotic bug-out planning. I developed a brand new food storage methodology <click here to read more>, then rearranged my guns & ammo, developed my communications gear storage plan, and began working on redoing my whole storage concept on all my other gear. I will share all of that in the near future, but for now I just want you to know that I realized, rather clearly, that I would only be able to take a small fraction of my “stuff” , even in our one-ton truck.

Oh, I gotta tell you that there was one intermediate step, I started upgrading my plan using my wife’s Explorer in the mix. Yeah, I am an idiot! Twice the problems with gas, breakdowns, security, etc. I only went down that rabbit hole for a couple hours before I abandoned that dumb decision.

So back to bugging-out. For the most part, in most situations it will make absolutely no sense at all to bug-out; nada, zip, zero, none. But you better have a bug-out plan anyways. But before we go there let me explain my no bug-out thought.

Bugging - In Bugg-in bug-in shelter in place shelter-in-placeSo you have all this wonderful gear, lots of food, water, communications gear, blankets, sleeping bags, roof, windows, doors, and AC & Heat as long as the power stays on. Yeah! Now I am talking…great way to live through an apocalypse!

No, seriously, all your stuff is in your house, or at least on your property, why in the world would you want to take a small fraction of it and load it into a vehicle and drive away? Or worse yet, load a tiny, tiny fraction of it into a GOOD BOB and walk away?

So my first thought is to really reinforce your home and make it your “shelter-in-place” castle. But there may come a time when you must bug-out. What would drive you to do that?

Safety, pure and simple. Conditions would get so bad that it was safer to leave your home than stay in it. But you better have a plan to do so…and a couple alternatives.

But let’s talk for a minute about what would possibly be so bad that it would drive you from your home. Try the following:

  1. Imminent attack by a large mob and no neighborhood defense force, or no mutual fire support with your neighbors.
  2. Hazardous substance headed towards your house that could cause death or injury. This would be something like chlorine gas.
  3. Unstoppable and indefensible fire spreading towards your house.
  4. House-to-house looting or rounding up of citizens and lacking defenses mentioned in #1.

I am sure there are more that you can come up with but these are the top four in my mind. What I would suggest is that you identify “trigger points” for each scenario. In other words, define the threat severity and relationship to your home that would trigger you taking your family away from your home. Doing this simple exercise will help you when the stress is high and you aren’t thinking clearly. Just follow the plan. And yes, you must always remain flexible and adaptable to the changing conditions around you. But this is a good starting point to get your mind in the game.

Bug-out destination bug out destinationOf course you need a destination. And exactly where you go depends on what is near you. But there are two major categories of destinations, interim and final. The final destination is the one that you can plan for the most, the interim will present the most dangers and obstacles.

Let me briefly address the “interim” destination(s). Yes, you might have more than one; possible many more. But this is a location that is probably better known as a “stop-over” or “lay-over” location. This is simply a location where you will stop along the way to your final destination for some amount of time. You may only stay overnight, or maybe for days at a time. Ultimately there will be only one major guideline as to how long you stay – safety. Is it safe for you and your family or group to continue moving to your final destination will be your guiding principle.

So what makes a good interim location? I would suggest the following:

  1. Low-profile, well-hidden.
  2. Water is available.
  3. Little likelihood of other occupants.
  4. Can be safely observed from a distance before you enter.
  5. Access can be controlled.
  6. Defensible.

I would suggest looking for interim locations that are about 50 miles apart all along your route. This is of course assuming you are driving. If you must walk then you have to look at interim location about every 10 – 15 miles. Why so low for driving interim locations? You simply don’t know how far you will be able to travel in any given day. Some days you might go 700 miles, other days you may only go 7 due to roadblocks, weather, roadbed condition, vehicle condition, bad guys, etc. Better to have too many interim locations scouted then not enough.

You will want to employ basic security tactics when approaching an interim location to ensure no one is already there. And then those same tactics will hopefully keep you safe while you are there. Remember, to let your guard down for one minute is to invite disaster for you and your family. Generally speaking…observe the potential location for a minimum of 30 minutes before approaching…and hour is better. Only have 1 – 2 people approach. Keep a reserve and blocking security team in-place ready to respond.

Moving on to your final destination. As you should already know if you have been reading my articles or books, I advocate small community survival destination, not single person, single family, or even small groups for ultimate survival. You simply have to have enough people around you to provide skills that you and your group don’t have. Example: Doctor, gunsmith, electrical engineer, car mechanic, etc.

cabin in rural location for bug-out bug out location destinationBased on that I would suggest considering these options:

  • Your cabin or vacation home in a small, rural, potentially self-sustaining community.
  • A relative’s home, cabin or vacation home in a small, rural, potentially self-sustaining community.
  • A friend’s home, cabin or vacation home in a small, rural, potentially self-sustaining community.

Wherever you decide to go, it MUST have a water supply. And I don’t care if you think it is “safe” or not, there has to be a water supply of some kind. Regardless of whether you think it is safe or not, you will filter and purify it no matter what. You simply can’t trust a water supply under these circumstances. But not to worry! You have multiple layers of water filtration and purification. <click here to read more about making water safe to drink>

In the next post in this series I will go over more details on picking the right final destination.

 

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GOOD – BOB (Get Out Of Dodge – Bug Out Bag)

Bug Out Bag, Get Out Of Doge bag, grid-down

Really?

note: first appeared in January 2015

Let me describe what a GOOD or BOB is before I go on. A “GOOD” bag is a Get Out Of Dodge bag. A “BOB” is a Bug Out Bag. Both represent your last chance at survival in a serious disaster or grid-down situation where all you can carry to survive on is contained therein. Yes, that serious.

72-hour kit is not a BugOutBag or get out of dodge bag grid-down

72-Hour Kit

The GOOD BOB is not to be confused with “72-hour Kit” or a GHB (Get Home Bag) by any means.

A 72-hour kit is a far more conventional item that a family would use to evacuate their home with to get by for the 72-hours it would take to get more organized and formal emergency efforts into place. 72-hour kit is for the normal emergency and disaster situation where help will come. A GOOD BOB is more along the end-of-the-world scenario stuff.

In my series “Prepper Myth” I take “myths” that have been talked about by other so-called prepper experts and I give my view on the myth and the author’s response. In a previous post “Prepper Myth #6: BOB’s Need to Last 72 Hours” <click here to read more> I responded to a person holding themselves out to be an expert commenting on bug out bags. Their response was so outrageous that it drove me to write this article on GOOD BOB bags sooner than expected. It amazes me just how much bad information is out there. Bad enough that it will get people killed; probably whole families.

First, as always, let’s describe the “mission” for a GOOD or BOB: ahhhhhhhhh, well, ahhhhhh…..preparedness gear equipment must have clear Mission

Yeah, I can’t quite define it. Can you? Let’s drop back and paint a picture of the situation we might ourselves in that would require a GOOD BOB. Then maybe we can define the mission.

The situation would have to be so bad that staying in your home is no longer an option, leaving your home was the only sensible option. Maybe the only remaining option left to you and your family. Otherwise, why would you want to leave your home? Your home, I assume, is where your preparedness gear, equipment, food, and water capabilities would be stored; or at least the bulk of it. So why in the heck would you want to leave! But for now, play the game with me, you have to leave your home.

Ah, so why a GOOD BOB? What I mean is, “Why not a BOV?” Yeah, I come from a government job so I love acronyms. BOV = Bug Out Vehicle.

Yeah, throw your critical gear and food into your Expedition SUV, your Ford pick-up, or whatever else you might have for a quick getaway. Doesn’t that make sense? But, there may be that 1 in 100,000 chance that you can’t use a vehicle to bug out.

Oh, come on! Yes, I know there is the EMP crowd where the entire grid goes down. Then there is the martial law crowd where no one is allowed on the roads. And other special focus crowds where they maintain that no vehicle traffic will be possible. Yes, I too think it might get to that but it will be a gradual shift to it, not a single catastrophic event…more than the earlier odds that I quoted. So for me I say use the truck vs. a GOOD BOB.

Now, does that mean I don’t have a GOOD BOB? Of course I have a GOOD BOB but for entirely different reasons than most. It is part of my “building block” or “modular” system of prepping. But I look at a GOOD BOB as an TEOTWAWKI option.

Let me explain…

During most disasters and emergencies vehicle transportation is possible, as well as preferable. Yes, there are the inevitable traffic jams. But that is your responsibility to avoid. That means have a plan, multiple routes, and leave early. For my GOOD BOB scenario I assume you already have that covered. Besides I am talking more about a hard “grid-down” situation more than a softer situation such as a disaster or emergency.

So my GOOD BOB is designed for one thing:

Sustain life as long as possible.

Okay, so now you want to know what is in my GOOD BOB bag, right? OK, but we have to realize that what I just stated above was the “mission”; Sustain life as long as possible.

One point I want to clearly state, the mission doesn’t include anything along the lines of getting us from point A to point B. That is a whole other story and outside the scope of the GOOD BOB. And I will cover BOL (Bug Out Location) in another post in the near future.

Let’s review for a minute what I feel you would be facing in a situation where a GOOD BOB would be needed. The risks and threats, in priority order, would be:Bug Out Bag get out of dodge violence will be main threat risk

  1. Violence
  2. Lack of medical care
  3. Dehydration
  4. Exposure
  5. Starvation

Your resulting priorities, in priority order, would be:

  1. Safety
  2. Stabilize the situation (don’t make it worse)
  3. Conserve resources and property (don’t destroy anything you don’t have to)
  4. Normalize your situation as much as possible, as soon as possible

<click here to read more about priority setting>

Now that is over with you can begin to appreciate what a GOOD BOB must be able to do. But that being said, I am going to push you away from a GOOD BOB and towards a EOTWB (End Of The World Box). Why? Because I think that is the best option, the best solution for all potential scenarios.

How so?

Because you don’t know what the exact situation will look like when the time comes, so design a solution to meet all the possibilities to the best extent possible.

Safety is always the number one #1 priority in emergencies disasters and grid-downBased on the priorities I outlined above, the number one priority is safety. And the number one threat to that safety is violence against you and your family. Multiple means of protecting your family is the first thing you have to look at. For that I say guns and knives, plus bullets and sharpening stone. But the #1 way to stay safe from violence: avoid it. So I include items for that as well; and that includes communication equipment.

Next is lack of medical care. So mitigate that problem, you are it; and so are your family members. That means everyone carries a IFAK (Individual First Aid Kit) <read about IFAKs by clicking here>. And that means everyone carries an IFAK, even children. If they can walk more than a block they can carry an IFAK. Then you must have at least one TBAK (Team/Family Basic Aid Kit) <read about TBAKs by clicking here>. I would prefer two kits in your family, maybe one for each parent.

Inside that “safety” group I also put dehydration as well. I do so because it can occur quickly enough to affect you and your family in a matter of hours; for sure within a day.

I am itching to start listing exact pieces of gear and equipment but I didn’t clear up the “box” vs. “bag” decision on my part. Rubbermaid 24-gallon Action Packer Bug Out Box for emergencies, disasters and grid-downWell, it is for convenience sake more than anything, but you can judge for yourself. Remember, I think there is about 1 in 100,000 chance of actually carrying your GOOD BOB; I think a vehicle is not only preferable but also almost assuredly possible. So I put my “stuff” in a Rubbermaid 24-gallon ActionPacker container that has a nice tight lid and handles.

I can walk out to the garage, open the door, grab my box, my wife grabs her box and both go into the truck. I snatch the case of bottled water by the garage door and we drive away. Oopppsss, one step I forgot to mention; I open the gun safe and remove our AR’s and Sign 226’s before doing anything else. But you got the idea. There is no fumbling around for a bag, no gathering anything else, it is all right there.

So what happens if we have to carry all that stuff? Well, a bag is included just folded up nice and neat out of the way. Everything we need to survive is in the box and can be transferred to the bag is needed.

So here goes…

Safety is number one priorty in emergencies disasters and grid-down

 

SAFETY (this is the absolute #1 priority) –

 

Retrieved from the gun safe:

1 x AR-15
1 x Sig P226

Stored in Ziplock bags in the box:

8 x 30-round Magpul magazines
205 x 5.56 rounds (M855)
3 x 18-round Mecgar magazines
55 x 9mm rounds (147gr XTP)

1 x Tac Vest that has –

3 x double mag AR pouches
1 x IFAK
1 x Magazine drop pouch
1 x Tactical light pouch
1 x Radio pouch
1 x Survival pouch

1 x Blackhawk pistol belt that has –

1 x Serpa Level III pistol holster
1 x Double pistol magazine pouch
1 x Hard plastic AR-15 magazine holder

1 x Camelbak, 3-liter, 3-color desert
1 x Boonie hat, multicam

Survival Items – Stored in a single Ziplock bag together. These are the essential survival items that will go with me no matter what. They would be moved to the vest or carried on my person.

BOK (Blow Out Kit) – 1 x CAT tourniquet in pouch & 1 x 4”x6” Field dressing
1 x ESEE 6” fixed blade knife
1 x Spyderco Paramilitary2 knife
1 x Gerber model STL 2.0 (black) knife
1 x SOG Micron knife
1 x NDuR survival straw or LifeStraw
1 x 5-color camo point kit
1 x set of 2-part Aqua Tabs
1 x P-58 can opener
1 x Gerber multi-tool “Suspension” model (22-01471) in pouch
1 x Shemagh (desert color/pattern)
1 x Headlamp, Petzl, Tactika
1 x Gloves, tactical

Communication Items – Stored in a Ziplock together.

1 x Motorola T5500 FRS/GMRS radio
1 x Concealment ear piece with lapel mic
1 x charged “rechargeable” Battery pack
1 x 110vAC charger
1 x 12vDC recharger
1 x pouch
1 x Set of instructions

Stabilize the situation, don’t make it worse –

Misc. Items – Stored together in Ziplock bag.

2 x Set of ear plugs
1 x Pair Safety glasses, clear
1 x Pair Safety glasses, tinted
1 x Box Chlor-Floc water purification (30 packets – 8 gallon capacity)
1 x Compass
1 x Bic lighter
1 x Box stormrpoof matches
2 x Boxes waterproof matches
1 x Write in the Rain pen
1 x Write in the Rain tablet (3”x5”)
1 x Tablet paper (2”x4”)
1 x Spork (Vargo Eagle)

Sanitation/Personal Items – Stored together in a Ziplock bag.

1 x partial roll of toilet paper
8 x Germ-X hand sanitizer packets
3 x Sun-X sunscreen packets
4 x Bug-X insect repellant packets
3 x Shower Pill body towels

1 x Pair pants, A-tacs
1 x T-shirt, long sleve, Marpat
1 x Tactical shirt, 5.11 Tactical Series, multicam
1 x BDU top, multicam
1 x Cap, baseball, brown
1 x Helmet, bump, (PT-B Helmets)
1 x AR-15 vertical fore grip, storage for extra bolt, and integrated tactical light

Cold Weather Items – Stored together in a Ziplock Bag.

1 x Socks, Smartwool
1 x Watch cap, fleece, flat earth brown
1 x long underwear, bottom, Minus 33, Merino wool
1 x long underwear, top, Minus 33, Merino wool
1 x Poncho, Survival Systems OPSEC

Misc. Items – Stored in a Ziplock bag together.

2 x Roles of surveyor flagging
2 x Chemlights
2 x Maxpedition carabineers
1 x Grimloc Molle D-ring
1 x Blanket emergency survival (not Mylar style)
2 x Paracord 550, 30’ length
6 x Snares, small animal, wire

Power Items – Stored in a Ziplock bag together.

1 x SolarAid SolPad7 solar battery charger (AA & AAA)
4 x Batteries, AA, Duracell Quantum
4 x Batteries, AA, Energizer, rechargeable
4 x Batteries, AAA, Duracell
4 x Batteries, AAA, Energizer, rechargeable

9 x Meals, freeze dried, Mountain House
1 x GI canteen cup (stainless steel)
1 x Water filter, MSR Sweetwater (plus extra cartridge)

condor 3-day asault bag pack makes a great Bug Out Bag get out of dodge bag

Condor 3-Day Assault Pack

And lastly the pack – I like the Condor 3-day assault pack. It is large, comfortable, lots of compartments, and can snug down tight. In the pack’s side compartments I keep two stainless steel 1-1/2 liter water bottles. In the pack’s bladder compartment I put another 3-liter Camelbak bladder.

Could I carry all of this in the pack along with a full water load, tac-vest and weapons? Absolutely not! It would be way way too heavy for me. But remember the premise from the beginning – I am not planning on carrying it anywhere, it goes into the truck. Carrying the pack is Plan B.

I think in a coming post I will go into more detail about why I carry the different items, or why I choose a specific item over another. But for now you will get the idea what I consider my EOTWB (End Of The World Box).

stupid Prepper experts will get you killed, well-intentioned but ignorant

Well-intentioned but uniformed.

Now a word of caution, there are a lot of wanna-be prepper experts out there pumping out all kinds of information. Most of it is their personal preference or their viewpoint based on their military experience, their deep-woods survival skills, etc.

Very few folks have actually been in a large number of emergencies and disasters to have any kind of first-hand information and experience. And even fewer experts have training in assessing and analyzing information in the perpper world. I really don’t want you to get caught listening to one, accepting their word as gospel, and then you and your family die because the guy didn’t have a clue.

Yes, I want you to challenge my information and guidance as well. That is why I try to share the principles that should guide you.

You’ve heard the saying “Give a man a fish and you feed him for today. Teach him to fish and you feed him for the rest of his life.” I try to teach you to fish. I want you to understand how to figure things out on your own. I give you information such as my go-box list to get you started, a jump start on making your list.

MissionAccomplishedHowever, my list is probably not your list. So use the principles of LIPS and risk/threat assessment and mitigation to guide you through developing your own list. It is important, vitally important. For one day your family may be 100% dependent on these preparedness actions you’ve taken.

Thank you for sharing this time with me and I hope you have found some value in it. Feel free to send me questions and comments about this article, I would appreciate your feedback.

 

 

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No reproduction or other use of this content 
without expressed written permission from AHTrimble.com
See Content Use Policy for more information.

4watt vs 5watt vs 8watt Radios

Here is one of those touchy “tech” questions…filled with landmines. But what the heck…let me take a shot at it!

The premise of this article is the debate on handheld radios and how much power should I buy.

And there is no simple answer…but there is an answer…and I will make it as simple as possible. Let’s get going…

 

Background –

Generally speaking the more power, in terms of watts, that your radio generates, the more distance your signal will go. Antennas also make a big difference in actual transmitting capability than just power alone.

Here is a chart that shows the same radio(s) with different antennas. Notice the differences in “gain” just changing the antenna being used in conjunction with a frequency.

baofeng UV-5RMHP vs UV-5RA antenna resultsBottom line…maybe using a “matched” frequency with the right sized antenna can give you similar power capabilities of a 4w and 8w radios.

Reasonable Options –

For handheld radios you have essentially 3 power settings available to be used…1watt, 4watt, and 8watt.

Very generally speaking an 8watt radio will generate a more powerful transmitting signal. That generally means a transmission that will go further on a 8watt radio vs. a 1watt or 4watt. But, don’t be confused…it won’t be 2times or 8times longer distance signal respectively.

So is more powerful always better?

Yes, No…depends. Don’t you just hate me 🙂

OK, I gotta touch on a critical issue that is the determining factor in handheld power…safety. Yeah, kinda of weird, eh?

In this case I am not going to be referring to daily use, or usage during emergencies or disasters. I am going to specifically speak about “grid-down” and operations during that eventuality. I should probably have mentioned OpSec or ComSec rather than safety.

OpSec = Operational Security. Keeping your operations safe and secure from outside interference. That interference could cover a wide range of options…discovering your location or ambushing you. Having good good OpSec means non-need-to-know people don’t find out what you are doing before or during an operation.

ComSec – Communications Security. Keeping your communications secure from outside interception and/or keeping them from understanding what you are communicating. Having good ComSec mean non-need-to-know people can’t somehow listen in to your communications. Or, if they do, they can’t understand what you are communicating.

Now that I covered that…what does it have to do with the power of your radio?

Let’s say you have a great BugOut location and you have 5 families located there. Your area of operations (AO) covers the immediate 40acres of property that you own and the forest about mile in any direction. You want to be able to communicate with handheld radios within the AO.

You set your radios to 8watts to ensure that you can easily talk to each other. It works great! And one day a group of bad guys is traveling on a highway about 6 miles away. They are scanning the basic UHF/VHF frequencies as well as GMRS and FRS frequencies. They pick up your radio transmissions and hear you talking about the teenage girls are out harvesting apples. Oh, yeah…you are about to get visitors.

Point? Using a much lower transmission power reduces the distance your signal can travel. Hence, the signal may not have reached the badguys had you been using a 1w or 4w radio.

So just use the low or medium power setting on an 8w radio!?!?! Right?

How often so people use the power they have? Albeit, car, truck, radio, tractor, anything? Someone at some point will turn the power to 8watts and jeopardize your ComSec and OpSec.

Now, if you have 100% control over ComSec and people’s actions…feel free to go to an 8watt radio platform.

Summary –

There is one more influencing issue…cost. The 8watt radio that we are talking about is the Baofeng BF-F8HP. FYI, I reviewed it yesterday. It is well more than double the price of the Baofeng UV-5RA. So I would rather spend the money on buying more radios and better accessories than a radio with more wattage that may or may not be more useful to our situation.

If I had no money restrictions and I had confidence in my ComSec (or didn’t care about ComSec) I would buy the Baofeng BF-F8HP..

If I had a specific need for longer distance transmission I would buy the Baofeng BF-F8HP. Or, look at buying a mobile radio with even more wattage. An example of this kind of need would be a repeater. Yes, there might be a repeater located in my AO that I need to reach and only an 8watt handheld could do it.

So, now it is your job to figure out what you need/mission is, what your budget is, what your ComSec is, and then chose which radio is best for you. And I wouold wait until I read my next article i this series coming out tomorrow 🙂

 

 

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Get Home Bag (GHB)

Get Home Bag (GHB)note: first appeared in January 2015

Have you ever considered being at work, school, church, or anywhere other than home – and then wondered if a disaster hit right now, right here…how would I get home?  Especially a situation such as “grid-down” and you couldn’t drive?  Yes, maybe an EMP situation but I am not talking that drastic, I am just saying it was an emergency and you were stuck traveling on foot.GHB to get home after a disaster.

Well, you still have the basic emergency and disaster priorities LIPS <click here>.  So your first thought should be what gear and equipment do you have to work with.  Then what gear and equipment is available to you in your immediate surroundings, and then what can you acquire by scavenging. Wouldn’t it be great to start with a basic gear load to help you get home to your family?

It’s called a Get Home Bag (GHB).  Let’s get talking about what I think is a good basic load for a GHB.  Keep in mind that your GHB may contain items different than the list here.  And your list should be based on your needs vs. mine. But this is a good starting part to get you thinking.

Any project with me has to have a clear, specific mission to make sure I am focused on the “need & solution.”  Here is my mission statement for my GHB:

To provide necessary items required to assist in returning to my home from work or another location. To provide the primary means of survival, including: defense, first aid, communications, water, food, shelter and navigation.

Remember: I am a huge believer in the “space & weight” concept. You can always find lots of stuff to put in your bag.  BUT…Is it really needed just to get home?  That’s all you are trying to do…just get home.  So before you start loading that bag up, consider each piece of gear and decide is it is really needed.  I would rather move lighter and faster vs. carrying the kitchen sink.Fieldline Tactical pack for a get home bag.

PACK – Fieldline Tactical Pack : You can use any pack you wish but I like this particular pack for its compartments, accessibility, and comfort.  It is sturdy and plenty of options to store gear.  There is a good argument to be made to use a civilian pack to lower your profile and blend in more.  Your choice.

DEFENSE –  I carry a separate small bag with me each day that carries my every day carry pistol, extra magazines, tactical light, pepper spray, and holster.  So those items are always with me in my truck.  Additionally, in my GHB kit I have have a ESEE3 knife, extra magazine and 48 rounds of XTP and a double magazine pouch.  There is no folding knife listed because I always have my Spyderco Paramilitary 2 on me .

FIRST AID – Elwyn Field Dressing (carried on my person).  In the pack: 6″ Israeli Trauma Dressing, Mole Skin, Quick Clot, 4-1/2″ role of gauze.NDUR survival straw

WATER- NDuR survival straw or LifeStarw (carried on my person).  In the pack: 2-liter bladder (in the pack’s bladder compartment), 1-1/2 liter aluminum water bottle, and Portable Aqua Tablets.

FOOD – In the pack: 3xFreeze dried food pouch, 1xFreeze dried granola with milk & blueberries, stainless steel GI cup, spork.Baofeng UV-5r handheld radio

COMMUNICATIONS – I have my cell phone but I don’t depend on it for communications.  Baofeng UV-5r handheld radio in pouch (carried on my person).  In the pack: Whistle, signal mirror, and 3″x5″ (Write in the Rain) notebook with pen. Plus, 12vDC charger and a 14.5″ antenna for the radio.

FIRE – 3 lighters; 1 on my person, 2 in the pack. One container of waterproof matches in my pack.Petzel Tactikka XP headlamp

LIGHT – Petzel Tactikka XP headlamp (carried on my person).  In the pack: Gerber Recon LED flashlight (white, red, blue lights) and one extra set of batteries for each.

MISC. – Celestron 10 x 25 monocular, map in a Ziplock bag, toilet paper in a Ziplock bag, hand sanitizer, body wipe towelette, compass, money pouch with $50 in bills and coins, camo poncho, pair of Mechanix brand gloves, and 550 paracord (12′ with Maxpedition carabineer & 18′ with Maxpedition carabineer)

GridDownChaosNOTES:

  1. I consider the Elwyn Field Dressing as my Blow-Out-Kit (BOK) and is carried in a cargo pocket of my pants.
  2. I use Mountain House freeze dried food because it tastes great and is very lightweight.  It can actually be eaten with cold water or simply by itself without water.
  3. Hand sanitizer is critical!  Not keeping your hands clean after bathroom breaks and before eating will make you very sick.
  4. The camo poncho is my choice for its ability to help conceal you on the trip home if needed.  It can also be used as a shelter along with the paracord.  And if all else fails, when it rains it can help keep you dry.
  5. The 550 paracord is in two different lengths so I am less likely to have to cut it.  I use only 550 paracord for its superior strength and durability.  If you haven’t used the Maxpedition carabineers you haven’t lived.  They are fantastic.
  6. The body wipe is in there in case you are out longer than overnight.  Getting crotch rot sucks.  Keep yourself clean to keep yourself on the move.
  7. I chose the ESEE3  vs. my ESEE6 in this situation because the 3 is smaller, lighter weight and easier to conceal.  That little knife is just as sturdy and useful as its 6″ bigger brother.

Get prepared, prepare a bag, get home. You family needs you.

 

 

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Baofeng/BTECH UV-5X3 Radio

note #5: over the next several days I will be posting a number of articles on handheld radios…specifically Baofeng…and which is the best to buy. Hold off buying any radio until you’ve read all the articles. You will be glad you waited.

So here we go with another radio review…maybe boring to some…tantalizing to others. And you may be disappointed when you are done reading this article. But…oh well….

This is the first substantial improvement in this line of Baofeng line radios. I started out years ago recommending the Baofeng UV-5R radio…I still highly recommend the Baofeng UV-5R radio.

So why am I writing this review? Ah, yeah…you might want this new version of the radio…if you have the need.

Clarification –

Technically the name of this radio is “BTECH UV-5X3” but don’t let that confuse you…it is a Pofung/Baofeng. And made by Fujian Nanan Baofeng Electronic Co in China. Yup, China. Now, that might not be a bad thing…I just wanted you to be aware of it. “BTECH” is just the American distributor of Baofeng radios. Pafung was originally created to be the international arm of Baofeng. So, Pofung, Baofeng, BTECH…all the same radio made in the same manufacturing plant in China.

Background –

You already know I love the Baofeng UVf-RA radio. If you haven’t already read that post <click here>. That article will give you a great background to build on…and allow about 85% of the BTECH UV-5X3 Radio to be understood.

Difference between UV-5R and UV-5X3 –

The addition of the 1.25M band and that is the only difference by in large. What is the 1.2M band? It is the 222MHz – 225MHz range of frequencies.

This frequency range is open to even Technician level licensees.

There is also another difference but far more minor. It is called “Sync” display. It allows you to program your radio to show Channel Name and the Frequency on the display. Yes, you lose the ability to display the second channel when you are in Sync mode.

And also, you cannot display three bands at the same time. You can’t monitor three bands at the same time.

Ease of Use –

This radio is every bit as easy to use at the Baofeng UV-5RA radio. And it has a couple extra features as well. I won’t get into them because they are so minor and I don’t use them.

Accessory Compatibility –

All Baofeng UV-5R accessories are supposed to be compatible with this tri-band cousin. However, as I have written about over the years…beware. Some batteries fit, other don’t. If you buy from Amazon then you can easily return anything that doesn’t work or fit right.

Battery Life –

Should be the same, or close to it, as the Baofeng UV-5RA. But, it will be better than the UV-5RMHP or BF-F8HP,,,if you are running those radios on their “high” power setting.

Summary –

OK, down to the basics…Should you buy this radio?

No…and Yes.

No – Unless you have a specific reason for needing the 222MHz – 225MHz range of frequencies this radio is not worth the 150% higher price than the Baofeng UV-5RA radio. So, is there a need or mission for you using the 222MHz – 225MHz range of frequencies? If there isn’t then don’t buy the radio. Buy more Baofeng UV-5RA radios instead…or better or more accessories for the Baofeng UV-5RA radio.

Yes – If you have a specific reason for needing the 222MHz – 225MHz range of frequencies this radio is worth it.

Before you answer the mission/need for the 222MHz – 225MHz range of frequencies…write down that reasoning. Does it make sense? Can you get by on the hundreds and hundreds of other frequencies available on the Baofeng UV-5RA radio?

OK, now that you did that homework…you can make your decision and feel comfortable with it.

 

 

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Food Storage Methodology

repacking food storage boxes - new food storage methodologynote: first appeared in May 2015

Pretty much my whole life has been figuring out scenarios and then planning and preparing for them. I was in military school during high school and then on to the military at the tail end of Vietnam. My professional life as a firefighter means a lot of my planning and preparing involved the potential for life & death. My side-line, security work, was a lot the same way to some degree. But whatever I’ve been doing for the last 40+ years has to do with the “what if” kinda of stuff. This reviewing and revamping of our food storage was no different.

Background –

Quite a while back I looked at our food storage and realized that I needed to have the ability to “grab & go” if the situation Leaving home in a hurrydemanded it. So I developed a series of scenarios that would cover a quick departure:

  1. If time was very very short, just a minute or less, I would grab our two buckets of freeze dried food that we bought at Sam’s Club.
  2. And if there is another two minutes to spare I would grab the 3 cases of MREs and a large case of Mountain House pouches.
  3. If I have another two minutes on top of that I would grab the Mountain House 45-day supply that is in four cases of #10 cans.

But then what?

Well, we had several stacks of food storage in #10 cans packed 6 cans to a case. They were all neatly stacked and grouped with similar items (wheat, rice, beans, etc.) in the same location. Looked great, nicely organized, but what happens if I have 10 – 15 minutes to load some more food? What would I take and how would I get to it easily? Or would I even know what to take?

The Problem –

I mean I could start grabbing boxes but I might end up with two cases of veggies and no milk; or five cases of wheat but no meat. And that made absolutely no sense to me at all. There had to be an answer, there had to be some kind of answer to resolve my grab & go problem.. So I did what makes the most sense, I forgot all about it and went back to daily issue and challenges…life set in.

Yeah, that worked for about two weeks; I just felt that I had to correct this situation and very, very soon. Then my wife started talking to me about it so I knew it was time to really do something and stop putting it off. For about two weeks we worked on a new method of food storage. A couple Family Home Evenings, some heart felt prayers, lots of discussion, pondering…well, you get the idea…Poof! We had a new food storage methodology.

The Solution –

The three scenarios I listed above haven’t changed at all, that is our “quick reaction” food storage. But we now have a new plan that builds on that old plan. And here it is:

We now have a “3-case month.” That means three cases of food are grouped together to make up a meal plan for two people for one month. The food is balanced, nutritional and meets a minimum calorie diet.

Each case in the group falls into one of three categories; A, B, or C. Also, each case of food is also “stand-alone” and can be used individually if needed. In other words…each case has a balanced set of contents.

P-51 Can Opener, P51 can opener, P-38 can opener, P38 can openerAll the “A” cases have the high value food that we would take first. Then the “B” cases have the next most high-value food. Then the “C” cases of food the lowest valued food (but still plenty good, it is just relative). All the cans in each case have their own plastic lid. Each case has a P-51 can opener in the case.

So that addresses the main concern – What food do we take first?

How we did it –

We made up a total of 12 “grab & go” groups of three case sets for a total of 36 cases We figured that would be a decent, well-balanced, nutritionally correct diet for a year.

Each “A Case” Contents –
ITEM           SERVINGS        CALORIES per SERVING       TOTAL CALORIES
Meat                     48                           110                                         5280
Vegetable             50                           110                                         5500
Fruit                      42                            25                                         1050
Rice                      54                           160                                         8640
Wheat                   58                           140                                         8120
Spices
TOTALS               252                                                                       28,590

Each “B Case” Contents –
ITEM           SERVINGS        CALORIES per SERVING       TOTAL CALORIES
TVP                    47                           80                                           3760
Potato                 41                           35                                           1435
Cheese               44                           140                                         6160
Milk                    69                           100                                          6900
Pasta                 27                           200                                          5400
Bean                  55                           150                                          8250
TOTALS           283                                                                         31,905

Each “C Case” Contents –
ITEM           SERVINGS        CALORIES per SERVING       TOTAL CALORIES
Drink                     94                           80                                         7520
Grits                      61                         130                                         7930
Biscuit Mix            30                         210                                          6300
Peanut Butter       81                           60                                          4860
Apple Slices         16                          110                                         1760
TVP                      43                          100                                         4300
TOTALS              325                                                                      32,670

Nutritional Needds from food storageOur “3-Case Set” provides us with 860 servings of food and a total of 93,165 calories. How does that stack up against our nutritional needs? We get a little over 3,100 calories of energy between the two of us each day. That means we are looking at a “minimal” diet. A woman my wife’s age will need about 1,200 – 1,300 calories a day with a “normal life-style.” That leaves me with about 1,800 calories a day. That is barely enough for a man my size, age, and life-style. If we have to accomplish hard work we would have to double that caloric intake to stay healthy.

Now, how to extend what you have in your 3-Case Sets can be a bit tricky, maybe confusing. But, I will take a stab at it. Remember that a 3-Case Set is designed to be food for two people for one month. But it is barely enough for a man and women as far as calories go. Now, it would be easy to increase calories by simply adding beans, wheat, rice or oats; and it would be very cost effective as well. But you could end up suffering from food fatigue if you aren’t careful. To avoid that situation and boost calories…there are a number of ways to accomplish that. You put together a case of “caloric extenders” while adding a little “taste” as well. Here are some ideas for both:Food Storage Extenders - grains, beans, rice

Caloric extender foods:

Wheat
Rice
Beans, pinto/black/white/refried
Oatmeal
Pasta
Potatoes, mashed

Food Storage Enhancers - Sugar Brownie mix Yogurt bits Cheese ButterTaste enhancer:

Sugar
Brownie mix
Yogurt bits
Cheese
Butter

You can mix and match them in any combination that you wish to get the desired foods, taste, caloric intake, bulk and nutritional content. And you can do all of that while keeping food fatigue away. Now, don’t think you have to run out and spend a fortune on freeze dried food or a long list of fancy canned food. If you have the extra money fine, then do so if it fits your budget. But if you are like most of us you don’t have that kind of money just sitting around. No problem, just add a single #10 can each payday if that is all you can do. Steady progress is what it is all about. This is a marathon not a sprint.

Summary –

All-in-all, we are really grateful that we undertook this change in food storage methodology. It was eye-opening to say the least. We both feel we are far better prepared now to meet the challenges that will come our way when we face a disaster, emergency or a “grid-down” event in the future.Lessons Learned

Here are some specific Lessons Learned from this significant change in the way we stored our food storage:

  1. We didn’t know before exactly how long our food would last. Now we have a firm estimate. Makes a big difference for planning purposes.
  2. Putting a can opener in each box really gives us a feeling of comfort. Talk about redundancy!!
  3. We found the bottom seams of many of the boxes (especially shipped boxes) had tape that no longer functioned. We took the time to re-tape each of the 3 seams on ALL the box bottoms; two shorter edges and the one long seam in the middle.
  4. With our computer printed, easy-to-read labels, we marked each box with the exact contents and the servings and calories.
  5. We rearranged how we physically stacked and placed it in the storage area. We can now easily see what we need to round-out our food storage. But more importantly, which cases of food should be loaded first in the event we need to bug-out.
  6. We feel confident, that should we be able to take it all, we will have well balanced and tasty meals. With well-balanced cases of food it will help ease the problem(s) that caused us grab & go our food storage to begin with.
  7. We realized that if we are to take all our food storage we will need a larger, sturdier truck. But, we’ve identified the most important 36 cases of food in case that is all we can take.
  8. If the grid goes down and we have to leave in a hurry we will very likely not be able to take all our food storage with us. But we will easily know what to take, and we will be able to do it quickly and efficiently.
  9. We really liked the idea that we put plastic lids on every can in the A/B/C and Support (caloric & tastes extender) cases. Once the food is used out of those cans, the cans will have more value because they will all have a lid.

Now…what kinda ofr methodology do you use for your “grab & go” food storage?

 

 

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Smith and Wesson M&P Shield – Part #2

Smith & Wesson M&P Shield Review Part 2Well, kind of an interesting morning at the range. Let me explain…

I actually didn’t go to the range at all. I have a place I like to go in the desert, its remote but close enough to town not to be a long drive. It is all boxed in with high canyon walls all around. It is quiet and I am always alone unless I take people with me. So that’s where I headed…and I am glad I did.

Alright, so I drop the tailgate to my pickup and layout all my shooting gear. I had brought 220 rounds of 115gr Winchester FMJ ammo with me. That stuff is nothing fancy but the price is right and the brass is reloadable. I really wasn’t trying to become an expert shot with the Shield, I just wanted to run the rounds through it to see how it performed and get through the “break-in period” with it.

Let’s cover all of it…the factory magazines that came with it were a decent quality. If I did my research right, Mec-Gar makes them for S&W. With the pistol came a 7-round mag and an 8-round mag. The 8-rounder has a little pinky finger extension on it. Both mags were a little stiff at first but broke-in just fine. I did notice that even at the end the 7-rounder was a little stiff getting that last round in as I was loading, but it wasn’t a big deal at all.

The first round of any new gun I send down range is always an interesting one for me. My head always wonders what might happen. I wasn’t surprised or startled by the first round at all. It just went “crack” and the tree stump splintered. Same thing for each round for both of the first mags.

After about 100 rounds I started to pay more attention, snapping up from a low-ready, changing my stance, aim, not aiming, and trying different positions on the trigger with my finger. What I did notice were a few things –

  1. I tended to want to put more of my finger over the trigger than I normally do. I figured out it is because the Shield is small compared to my Sig 1911 Ultra-Compact or my Sig 226. So my big paw wanted to envelope more of the gun than it is designed to handle. So I had to consciously work at keeping my trigger finger where it belonged.
  2. I noticed I was shooting a little to my left pretty consistently. When I really slowed down and was taking each shot seriously I noticed that I didn’t have a natural sight picture with the pistol. I can work through that with range time and getting the right feel for the gun…hand position vs. aim point.
  3. The Shield is much smaller in my hand that any other gun I have with the exception of the Sig 938 I have.
  4. It was simple, easy, and second nature for each follow-up (second) shot. Even with a small, lightweight gun the second shot was very easy to manage.

Once I had shot up 200 rounds I got out the 15 rounds of misc rounds I had brought. I mixed in those rounds with a few of the remaining Winchester rounds I still had left. Ran them, no problems. Then I got out the good stuff, the 147gr Hornady XTP rounds that I absolutely love. I feel these are the undisputed best round to run in a 9mm pistol. I loaded them up mixing them in with the remaining 115gr Winchester rounds.

It ran like “crack” “crack” “thump”. The “crack” were the 115gr rounds, the “thump” was the 147gr round. There was a noticeable difference in the feel of the gun on top of the sound. The 147gr rounds were ones that I had reloaded myself and they are a little on the hot side since I run them through my full-frame Sig226. The Shield handled them just fine. Even the second shot was no issue at all.

After about an hour and 250 rounds later, I have to say I like the Shield. The 7-round magazine leaves my pinky finger dangling. But for some reason it quite naturally tucked right under the grip and was no issue. The 8-round magazine removes any issue at all. The 18º grip angle is just right for me. The grip is a little small for me, but it is entirely doable with no issues. I do like the 8-round mag grip better, it feels more natural, and I think I have better control on the pistol with it. That being said, I am perfectly fine with the 7-round mag grip with no complaints.

A few more technical observations –

  1. No failure to feeds.
  2. No failure to ejects.
  3. Two failures to go completely into battery.
  4. No misfires.
  5. No magazine feed issues.

I want to explain the battery failure issue I mentioned. There is a thumb button slide release. But, don’t think for a minute you are going to be able to use it…you simply can’t. Yes, I know you are supposed to release the slide by “racking” but I just wanted to test the release. The release button is simply too tight and stiff to allow it to be used under normal circumstances. Overall, it is a good thing, forces you to into good habits no matter how resistant you might be. I think the two failures to go completely into battery were my fault. They occurred early on and I just feel I didn’t have enough “snap” to my racking the slide. I will keep my eyes on that one and report more later.

I did a medium and long distance test fire on it as well. At a medium distance, about 80’ the gun was plenty accurate enough. Without really trying I was grouping 12” – 18” with one flyer. When I went to 100 yard distance I found I was able to pick up the aim point pretty quickly. I would have no problems trying to engage someone at 100 yards if I had to. I would have to slow my shots down a bit, but it is perfectly doable.

The trigger reset is clean. There is even an audible “click” when it resets. However, in a gunfight I am not sure that you would hear it. I only heard it because I use Howard Leight electronic ear muffs. There is a “feel” when it resets but I hard a hard time feeling it. Next time at the range I will slow down and really work the gun to become proficient. I will let you know if it becomes any kind of an issue.

I did a glove test on the pistol as well. Unless you are using a “golf glove” (i.e. thin leather) you might struggle getting your trigger finger inside the guard. I could do it but it felt a like fumbling at first…and later as well.

Then I had to remind myself…this isn’t a battle gun. This isn’t something I am going to strap onto a drop-leg rig and head into some pitched firefight. This is a CCW EDC pistol. It is designed to be highly concealable, highly reliable for carrying on your person every day.

One thing I will point out that is fairly weird, maybe it is just me. I do a lot of shooting and I have a decent variety of pistols. But, I have never had a problem retrieving a spare magazine to place into a pistol that I was shooting (magazine swap). Seriously, I’ve never had a problem…period. With the Shield three times I brought the spare mag up reversed. As I tried to repeat the error it boiled down to the base plate of the magazine. It is just kind strange to anything I am use to. The base plate itself stick out to the front and to the rear of the magazine so there is no easily distinguished forward position. I think this is just a “me thing” and I will get over it with practice and consistent handling of the mags. I didn’t have the problem with the 7-round mag…but it doesn’t have the strange base plate that the 8-rounder does.

I wrapped up the range time and headed home…after picking up my brass. I felt very pleased with the Shield and I felt 100% confident that I could carry it as my EDC piece and not worry a bit.

When I got home I cleaned it. I gotta tell you, it was the easiest pistol I ever stripped down. It was simple, easy, and very fast to clean. While I can’t say I enjoy cleaning guns, cleaning the Shield was no big deal, fast, and easy. And that is good enough for me.

At that point I made the decision that this was going to become my new EDC…period. I liked it, it packed plenty of punch, was light, really concealable and just what I was looking for. So the next step…

I ordered four different holsters for it –

    • Outbags LOB3P
    • Galco SG652B Stinger
    • Blade-Tech Revolution Klipt
    • Desantis Mini Scabbard

Why those holsters? Because I did about four hours of research online to find the holsters that I feel are most likely to me what I am looking for. I will write an article on that once my testing is complete. And yes, I will have a recommendation as well.

I ordered another 8-round magazine. I figure that since this pistol was meant to be more highly concealable I would carry the 7-round mag in the pistol on my belt. That gives the gun the smallest possible “print.” But, my two spare mags will both be 8-rounders vs. 7-rounders. Yeah, I know…only two rounds of difference. But I keep thinking that I would rather have two too many rounds, than two too few rounds. That is just me. And why two spare mags? Because you never know how long the gunfight might be or how many bad guys you might be dealing with.

One thing I had to do…just had to. When I was ordering the spare mag from the supplier…right there just two tiny ads over was a 10-round magazine option. Yes of course I bought that one also. I just couldn’t resist! Come on, if 8-rounds is good…10-rounds really rocks! I will return and report on that as well.

I know I talked about two other issues; 1) night sights, 2) trigger job. At this point I see absolutely no reason for a trigger job. Yes, I might change my opinion later on, but for now I am perfectly fine with the trigger it has. I am almost struggling with getting the night sights or not. I was just fine with the way it was at the range. But, the sun wasn’t its normal desert brightness nor was I am attempting to shoot in low/no light conditions. I will probably go with the night sights but not just now. I am more interested in another day at the range really working the gun and finishing the break-in. I am also going to enjoy figuring out which holster is best suited for it. I am hoping that one holster really stand outs.

So there you have it…all of my initial impression of the Shield are positive and I think this is going to be as great CCW EDC gun. And I will be writing at least one more article covering all the new stuff I test.

 

 

 

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Baofeng BF-F8HP Radio

note: over the next several days I will be posting a number of articles on handheld radios…specifically Baofeng…and which is the best to buy. Hold off buying any radio until you’ve read all the articles. You will be glad you waited.

OK…more radio stuff…hope you are ready for it.

So what about this radio? It is the latest version of its incredible grandfather…the Baofeng UV-5R. With an additional feature or two…and more power. I am not going to make this review painful or long…so here goes…

The primary difference, the only one worth going into detail about is the increase in power.

The original Baofeng work off of high/low power setting (4w/1w). This version has three power settings high/medium/low (8W, 4W, 1W). However, if you rad my review of the Baofeng UV-5RMHP radio that appeared first in 2016 and resurrected yesterday, you see where the antenna makes a huge difference the actual power you get when transmitting. And remember also, “power” doesn’t make a whole lot of difference when receiving…power when transmitting it the key.

Ease of Use –

As I have written about before…the entire Baofeng UV5 family is very easy to use. Well, easy to use if:

  • You have it programmed correctly
  • You use software to program it
  • You use the manual(s) that I have produced
  • You actually take the time to train yourself on the radio
  • You keep familiar with the radio’s operational capability be using it as often as practical.

Bottom line…the radio is easy to use.

Accessory Compatibility –

Well, officially all the accessories that are compatible with the UV5 family are compatible with this radio as well. And just as predictably…some are, some aren’t. As I’ve written about before, sometimes accessories don’t fit exactly right…mostly batteries. Buy the accessory you want, try it, if it doesn’t fit right send it back. That’s why I love doing business at Amazon.

Battery Life –

If you run on high power all the time you will get less life out of this radio’s batteries than previous, lower power, versions of this radio. Batteries are fairly inexpensive so just buy more batteries if you need, and will be operating on, the high power setting.

Summary –

If you don’t currently own a handheld radio this is a radio to seriously consider. It has a great pedigree and plenty of accessories to make it very useful. But, at $63 for the radio…it is well more than double the price of the Baofeng UV-5R radio. For me…if there were four members of my family and I was somewhat limited on funds…I would buy 4 Baofeng UV-5R radios rather than 1-1/2 Baofeng BF-F8HP radios.

That being said, if I $250 available to buy radios for my family of four, I would…Oh, wait…I would still buy the Baofeng UV-5R radio (4 of them) and and use the other $155 for much needed accessories.

All that being said…If I had the money and the NEED for 8wats of transmitting power then I would buy the Baofeng BF-F8HP Radio…but only if there was the need for the higher power capability.

 

 

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Baofeng UV-5RMHP

Baofeng UV-5RMHP vs. Baofeng UV-5RA2019 note #1: article first appeared in April 2016

2019 note $2: the radio is not available from what I can find.

2019 note #3: the radio has been replaced by the BaoFeng BF-F8HP which I will be doing a review on very shortly.

2019 note #4: this article still contains useful information that you may find interesting.

2019 note #5: over the next several days I will be posting a number of articles on handheld radios…specifically Baofeng…and which is the best to buy. Hold off buying any radio until you’ve read all the articles. You will be glad you waited.

Power –

We all want power! If we have some power, we want more power!

No, I am not talking about government, the police state, or our former Dictator-In-Chief Barry, or anything along those lines. I am simply talking about a way cooler subject…radios!

Over and over again I have told you how much I like the Baofeng UV-5RA radio…I think it is simply the best Baofeng UV-5RA Love Itprice/performance handheld radio on the market today. Yes, there are better quality radios Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radiosuch as the Yaesu FT-60r but the Yaesu also costs about 6 times as much at the Baofeng. True, if I could only have one handheld radio and the money wasn’t a real factor I would choose the Yaesu. But for many of us mere mortals money is a factor. And, I would rather each family member and all of my close friends have a radio rather than just one or two having a radio. Hence, the Baofeng UV-5RA handhelds are an amazing combination of price and performance.

But, there was always that talk swirling around by other Baofeng users claiming that their radio was a 5watt or an 8 watt, etc.  I began to suffer from “watt envy”!

I have already shown where the UV-5RA radio outperformed both the UV-6 and UV-8 version of the radio in previous Baofeng UV-5RMHP radioreviews. But, the venerable UV-5RA radio has finally met its match. Well actually, the radio that outperformed the UV-5RA is just its bigger brother…the UV-5RMHP.

I acquired an evaluation version of this radio a few months back. I started testing it and really couldn’t find anything wrong with it. Well, that isn’t 100% true. When I tried to program RT systems software for Baofeng UV-5R radioit with my RT Systems software…it failed. I looked to see if CHIRP had a version and NOPE, they didn’t.

I called RT Systems about the programming problem and within two days they had their UV-5 programming software humming along just fine with the new UV-5RMHP radio. Now that is why I like RT Systems software…they respond and they are professional programmers maintaining critical software.

So, I programmed up the UV-5RMHP with my standard channel plan and began the testing for performance. Wow!

I was very pleasantly surprised with the radio. First, it operates exactly like the UV-5RA so that eliminated any learning curve. It also programmed exactly the same with one exception, in the “Tx Power” column there were three choices vs. only two with the UV-5RA. The UV-5RMHP has three settings “L, M, H.” Which translates into 1w, 4w, 7w of power programmable for each channel. SWEET!

Back, to the testing…I looked over the radios to find any differences and couldn’t find a single operational difference other than the key that first locks/unlocks the radio, then is used to switch between “high” and “low” power on the UV-5RA radio. On the UV-5RMHP that key still locks/unlocks the radio, but it now switches the power; “high” “low” “medium.” Which corresponds to the new wattage capability while transmitting.

So naturally I had to test the new wattage with various antennas…

baofeng UV-5RMHP vs UV-5RA antenna resultsIf you look that chart over and you are a tech geek you will see that there is vastly improved power being delivered to the antenna. For all of us non-tech geeks the chart shows 50 – 100% more power to the antenna in some frequency ranges. Not only that but the SWR readings are terrific with only a couple of exceptions. And even then the SWR readings are still well within operational parameters.

Some Technical Specs –
  • FirmWare: 2015
  • Frequency Range: 136-174 / 400-520MHz
  • Dual-Band Display
  • Dual Frequency Display
  • Dual-Standby
  • 7 / 4 / 1 watts of Output Power
  • 128 Memory Channels
  • 50 CTCSS and 104 DCS
  • Built-in VOX Function
  • Burst Tone 1750Hz
  • FM Radio (65MHz-108MHz)
  • LED Flashlight
  • Large LCD Display
  • High/Medium/Low Power Switchable
  • 25KHz/12.5KHz Switchable
  • Emergency Alert
  • Low Battery Alert
  • Battery Saver
  • Time-out Timer
  • Keypad Lock
  • Monitor Channel
  • Channel Steps: 2.5/5/6.25/10/12.5/25KHz
More Info –

Field testing was amazing! But, since my field testing environment is different than your environment I am not going to say I was able to get X more distance with the UV-5RMHP over the UV-5RA. I will just say that I clearly got more distance with the UV-5RMHP.

And now one of the greatest aspects to this new model of the UV-5R radio…the UV-5RMHP uses all of the same accessories as the UV-5RA radio! Every single accessory works on either radio just fine.

UV-5RMHP-003UV-5RMHP-004And another great feature…the RT system programming software of the UV-5R works on both models as well! I just have three options now on the “Tx Power” column when programming a UV-5RMHP vs. two when programming a UV-5RA.

So where are we on the price/performance benchmark? Not bad, not bad at all.

  • The UV-5RA retails right now for about $25. That is $6.25 per watt of output.
  • The UV-5RMHP retails for $40. That is $5.72 per watt of output. (note: radio is not available as of 2019)

But when you consider there are times you can 11watts going out the antenna, then that makes it $3.64 per watt of output. Although, I would stick with the more realistic and consistent $5.72 per output watt performance. That makes the UV-5RMHP a better performance for the price while being only about $15 overall more expensive than the UV-5RA.

So which radio do you buy?

  • If $15 is no big deal, buy the UV-5RMHP !
  • If you need to buy 5 radios for your family the $15 difference comes to $200 vs. $125. With the $75 difference can buy three additional UV-5RA radios. So you might be better off with the UV-5RA radios.
  • If you are not going to be using the radio over longer distances the UV-5RA is just fine.

 

 

2009 - 2019 Copyright © AHTrimble.com ~ All rights reserved
No reproduction or other use of this content 
without expressed written permission from AHTrimble.com
See Content Use Policy for more information.