TIP: WD-40 : A true miracle drug….

WD-40 usesnote: first appeared August 2015

You know I really do look at WD-40 as a miracle product. It is one of those inventions that can just make life so much easier in so many different ways. And as far as I am concerned it makes any emergency, disaster or grid-down a whole lot easier to deal with. It ain’t bad for current every day life either.WD40-5

 

My research shows that currently WD-40 consists of:

  • 50% kerosene
  • 15% mineral oil
  • < 3% carbon dioxide
  • 22% of various ingredients that vary according to the information source, and there are lots of different sources.

Here are some of the different uses of WD-40:

  1. Helps remove stuck ring on finger. Spray some WD-40 on the offending finger. Allow it to penetrate between the ring and the flesh. Gently begin to twist the ring off the finger as if you were unscrewing it.
  2. Rust preventative. Spray a little on the metal you wish to protect. Rub it around with a soft natural fiber cloth until all surfaces are lightly coated. Alternatively you can spray a little WD-40 on a natural fiber cloth and then wipe the metal you wish to protect, such as a gun.
  3. Lubricates wood drawers. Over time the wood on wood-railed drawers will dry out. In the past I used and recommended coating them with a good bar soap like Ivory. But you can use WD-40 and it will do a good job as well. Plus is soaks into the wood better than soap and will keep your wood replenished longer protecting it.WD40-6
  4. Frees up and lubricates stuck hinges. Even if your hinge has been exposed to years of weather and rusted stuck, WD-40 can be used to free it up. Spray a liberal amount of WD-40 into the hinge mechanism. Make sure you have penetrated the entire length of the hinge pin. If needed, you can spray some on top of the hinge pin and allow it to run down into the hinge. That should free up your stuck hinge. Now, do that about once or twice a year and that hinge should get stuck again. In salt air environments spray that hinge every 2 – 3 months. For inside hinges, maybe once every 5 years.
  5. Removes mildew from refrigerator and freezer gaskets. That nasty mildew that can build up on refrigerator/freezer gaskets comes off easily spraying a little WD-40 in them and then wiping off. If the mildew has been on there a long time and it has a heavy build-up, then spray on the WD-40, let it sit 15 minutes. Then spray a little more on it and use a soft bristled scrub brush.
  6. Anything sticky on glass will come off with a little WD-40 sprayed on it and a soft rag.
  7. Black scuff-marks on tile and stone will come off using a little WD-40 and a scrub brush.
  8. Remove stickers from glass with WD-40. Spray a small amount on the sticker, allow the WD-40 to penetrate, begin removal. You may need additional applications of WD-40. If you have adhesive left on the glass spray a small amount on the adhesive and wipe it away with a natural fiber cloth.
  9. To remove the tough stains in your toilet spray some WD-40 on them. Then use your regular toilette bowl brush to scrub them away. If you can get the water out of the way it will be easier and more effective.
  10. If you have tough tar or asphalt stains or sticky junk on your vehicle use a little WD-40. Spray it on a cloth and try wiping them away. If that doesn’t work then saturate the area spraying it directly on the vehicle, then wipe off. You can even try saturating a clean soft natural fiber cloth, soak it with WD-40 and place it on the tar, left over adhesive, etc. Let it sit for a bit and it should come right off. You should test WD-40 on a small out of the way part of the vehicle’s finish just to make sure there isn’t going to be a problem.WD40-7
  11. Remove glue from your fingers. If you have some glue on your fingers that just won’t come off try spraying WD-40 directly on the affected area. Wait a second or two and then start running the affect area, such as rubbing your fingers together. The glue should give way, then wipe your hands with a cloth. Once you are done with WD-40 getting the glue off you skin then wash your hands thoroughly.
  12. If you have brass zippers that are getting stuck a lot, or pretty much frozen in place you can spray a little WD-40 on the metal and give it a few minutes. The sipper should be fine now. Be careful not to get the WD-40 on the material. And it won’t fix “broken” zippers.
  13. Cleans grease and dirt off your hands. If your hands are filthy black from working on equipment then spray some WD-40 on your wands. Rub them together and watch the junk breakdown. Wipe with cloth. Repeat as needed. When your hands are clean from the bad black junk then wash your hands with soap and water.
  14. Removes decals from vehicles. Spray the decal and surrounding area liberally with WD-40. Allow the WD-40 to stand 30-seonds to several minutes. No the decal should peel away. You may need to star the peeling process, use a plastic edge to start peeling up the decal. Keep spraying with a little WD-40 as you go. If there is any decal adhesive left on the surface spray it with WD-40 and then wipe it down. When finished was the area with soap and water.
  15. Remove ink stains from carpet. Spray moderate WD-40 on the stain (you are not trying to saturate the area) and allow to sit a couple of minutes. Now use your regular carpet clearer on the stain.
  16. Removes heavy grease, or old grease, on appliances and other metal surfaces. Spray WD-40 in the area liberally, wipe clean. Multiple applications may be needed depending on how much old grease is on the surface.
  17. Removes most ink stains from clothes. Spray WD-40 directly on the ink stain, allow it to penetrate. Wash immediately as you normally would. If there is a lot of ink wash item separately to prevent “bleed over” to the other clothes.
  18. Keeps flies off livestock. Spray affected area with WD-40 and the flies will stay off. Don’t spray WD-40 around eyes. Also, you might not want them licking the WD-40 as well.WD40-8
  19. Peel Duct or Gorilla tape away and you may find a hole bunch of adhesive left behind. Spray WD-40 on the adhesive, let it stand for a couple minutes and then wipe away.
  20. Cleans and shines stainless steel.

 

 

 

 

 

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Hey, I need you to keep your eyes open and watch for…….

I need you to watch for an article that will appear on September 1st. It will be the first of a series of articles that I really am excited about and think you will enjoy….or at least learn something from. Not that I am a great teacher or an oracle of truth…but the articles might get you thinking…and then learning.

Please keep your eyes open for it!

Why do I like “junk silver” so much?

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silvernote: first appeared in July 2015

That was a question that was posed by a website visitor not long ago. Thank you John for asking that question, I appreciate it. John wrote that question as a “comment” on the website lately. His question was pointed and deserved more than just a casual reply. Hence, this dedicated article to the subject of “junk” silver.

Junk silver is a misleading term, although popular and used to identify a whole class of precious metals available to folks. In my opinion there is essentially three types of silver available to the average person; 1) silver bullion, 2) investment grade silver, 3) junk silver. I will give a brief description of each that is my opinion:

  1. silver bullion for emergencies, disasters and grid-downSilver bullion is silver that has been mined, refined and poured into some shape, usually bars. The mine or refiner will stamp into the bar the weight and the assayed purity. You can also call this type of silver “bulk silver” because of its form. The purity for silver bullion is supposed to be .999 but there is no guarantee of that beyond the reputation of the seller.
  2. Investment grade silver. These are the silver rounds available from well-known, well-respected mints with extremely good reputations. I include the government mints from the US, Canada, Australia, etc. There are some excellent private US mint walking liberty, standing liberty American eagle rounds 1oz silver bullion for emergencies, disasters and grid-downmints as well. But for the purpose of discussing “investment grade” silver I will stick with those that I know and trust. This type of silver can be used to fund an IRA. Which means that there has to be a high degree of trust and confidence in the purity and value of the silver. Most of the investment grade silver comes in the form of one ounce silver rounds. An example is the US Mint Walking Liberty coin (a.k.a. American Eagle). These are widely regarded as the number one silver round in the world in relation to investment grade silver. The US Mint also makes quarter ounce Walking Liberty rounds as well.
  3. Junk silver. This covers a wide range of options spanning over 100 years of US coins. As I said earlier, junk silver is a misnomer. The coins I am referring to are coins minted by the US government to 90% silver coins, US coins, junk silver for emergencies, disasters and grid-downbe used as currency. Prior to 1964 the US government actually made coins that had value to them, not just some vague fiat currency that is used today. The coins I am speaking of were made from 90% silver, the other 10% was cooper.

 

So let me explain what I think of each in terms of buying for emergencies, disasters and for “grid-down.” I won’t go into explaining why or how much, I already wrote an article on that called “Silver & Gold…..Really?” < click here to read the article >

First up, bullion. Don’t buy it. Yup, just that simple. In my opinion you have no idea what you are buying. How do I Silver-04know? I bought some. Remember, I don’t write about anything I haven’t done, tested and have personal experience with. I want to speak from personal experience. Back to silver bullion…

So a few years ago I bought several “bars” of silver, a couple of 30+ ounce bars and a smaller 10 ounce bar. I liked them, they looked kinda cool, not perfect, a little rustic looking. They had cool imprints on them stating the purity and exact weight in Troy ounces. I liked them.

Then I started thinking about it, how did I know that they were actually what they were represented to be. The guy I bought them from had a good reputation and I trusted him. But how did I know who he got these bars from had a good reputation? In other words, I didn’t know what I didn’t know. So I sold the silver bullion off. The guy I bought it from had a money back guarantee from me. He is totally satisfied with the deal he got, and so am I.

So bullion bottom line…I don’t feel that I would truly know what I was buying. In the worst case scenario, grid-down, I try to barter/buy with by silver bullion and it turns out to be virtually worthless. How so? Well, there was a case not long ago (2012) where gold bars had been drilled out and back-filled with tungsten. Gold and tungsten have almost identical density/weight. It supposedly fooled a number of people.

There is such a thing as silver plate. That is a process where they fuse a coating of silver over another metal. It appears to be silver, coz it is on the outside, but the inside is another, less valuable, metal. I have no idea how I would be able to tell the difference. So the bottom line for me is…I just don’t and won’t buy silver bullion. Nor would I accept it in a barter situation during grid-down.

Next up, investment grade silver. I love this stuff! Yeah, I am a little obsessive about investment grade silver, I just Silver-05love Walking Liberty rounds. They are beautiful to look at and have a certain “feel” to them that just lets you know that you are holding something of value. But beyond the feel, the Walking Liberty rounds are recognized around the world as the most trusted silver coin. So you know you have one Troy ounce of 99.9% pure silver…and that guarantee is backed by the US government. Come on…don’t snicker.

It is easy to spot these coins and if you ever held one, you can easily spot another. Yes, they could be forgeries, but would be hard to copy the quality, weight and workmanship. To me that means that you would know exactly what you have and have confidence in that fact. And I think it would be virtually impossible to create fakes once the grid fell.

Come time for grid-down and you were trying to barter one away you would know you have true value. That in turn would give you confidence in your position and give you a strong hand in the deal. If you were the one who would receive the coin you would have a high level of confidence that you were receiving a high-quality, verifiable value for the goods/services your were trading to the other person. But there is a drawback, not all is perfect with the one ounce round.

Suppose your deal didn’t come out exactly to the ounce? I mean that you were trading 1 pound of wheat for 1-1/4 ounces of silver. The person buying your wheat has US Mint Walking Liberties and you are willing to take that in trade. So you get one, one-ounce coin, but what about the 1/4 ounce?

The two of you decide to use a cold chisel to cut a round, removing ¼ of it to finish the payment. Do you get exactly a quarter of the coin?

So there is the problem…coming up with exact amounts that are less than one-ounce increments. But, don’t worry Silver-06there are some solutions to that as well. There is also “quarters” and they are exactly what they sound like, ¼ ounce versions of the Walking Liberty one-ounce coin. They are not made by the US Mint. They are made by the Highland mint and recognized just as highly as their larger 1oz cousin.

A very astute trader during grid-down might know that the US Mint didn’t produce the quarter ounce coin but they will still know it is just as reputable. Now you have the ability to get your purchase/barter to within 1/4oz of silver. If you are wanting to get even closer…there is a solution for that as well.

Finally, junk silver. I kind of like the term “junk silver” but the term is misapplied. There is nothing junk about silver. Silver-07But, I don’t control the English language, I don’t even speak/write it so well, so I just go with the flow. As I was saying earlier, prior to 1964 US coins had a high silver content, 90% more or less. And that gave the coins themselves actual meaningful value. When the value of the silver outpaced the coin’s currency value, the government began to lower the value of the silver. Eventually the government eliminated all of the silver from the coin. They just hated the idea that United States currency actually had value in and of itself. Besides, they realized they could mint a 1oz, $1silver coin and sell it for 50 times what its currency value was.

So what about all those 90% silver coins that are still out there? Well, they are still out there for the most part. And they are valuable.. Now, remember they aren’t .999 pure silver like the invest grade silver I was talking about earlier. The junk silver coins are .900 pure silver, the rest is copper. And since the silver content is lower, the value is lower. Here is a chart of how much silver each coin contains –

Silver Dollar  (pre-1936)                   : .77 – .78 (troy ounces)
Silver Half-Dollar (1964 and earlier) : .3617 (troy ounces)
Silver Quarter   (1964 and earlier)   : .1808 (troy ounces)
Silver Dime (1964 and earlier)         : .0723  (troy ounces)

But, it is still silver!! You, as John did, might ask, “Why buy ‘junk silver’ when you can buy good silver?”

Valid question and there are a couple of reasons:

  1. Junk silver coins are already broken down in dollar, half-dollar, quarter and dime denominations. That makes it really easy to identify sub-1oz amounts. When the value of your trade/barter/deal needs a specific value in silver, using coins (junk silver) makes it easy to identify that exact amount. I can imagine that post-apocalypse folks identifying values in “silver dimes” as a standard valuation.
  2. Investment grade silver usually carries a hefty premium over the spot price of silver. However, junk silver coins can be bought below spot if you are watchful. What I am referring to is eBay. Search for eBay auctions that are for junk silver coins. Look for two kinds of auctions; 1) auctions that end at weird times like 2am on a Weds, 2) odd combinations of coins like 2 quarters, 10 dimes and a half-dollar. These auctions are often time passed over by the folks trying to scoop up larger quantities and who are a little more professional in their approach to buying silver. The “odd time” eliminates a lot of the folks that want to bid right at the end to avoid driving the price up. And that should be a great hint for you as well; wait until the very last couple of seconds before submitting your bid. That avoids running up the bids. But make sure you submit your “maximum” amount the first time. eBay will only run it up to your maximum but also, only enough to win the auction. So you might get it well below your maximum bid. I would go with spot price as my maximum bid.

So there you have my case for buying junk silver. Now, remember that I have also bought investment grade silver as well. I think there is a time and place for each. The investment grade stuff is for protecting my retirement. It is the hedge against inflation or the dollar getting ruined. Yes, it will be very useful during grid-down and I explain all of that in the article “Silver & Gold…..Really?”

I hope that answers your questions and explains my philosophy on junk silver.

One interesting little side-note: if you look at silver dimes they are supposed to have a serrated edge to them. There was a time that some folks would scrape the serrated edges off the dimes and collect the silver from those scrapings. And then continue to spend the dime when they were used as coinage. In today’s world I think there are some folks who still think they can get away with it. So when buying silver coins look closely at the edges to make sure they are intact and no one is trying to sell you a less than full-weight, intact coin.

 

 

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TIP: Learn skills!

Learn survival skills

note: first appeared in 2014

When you lose or break your gear, or have it taken away, your skills will still save the day and maybe your life.

Gear is great to have around. Really great gear is really great to have around to help you. But what do you do if you have no gear?

You must learn to depend on and trust your skills. If you don’t have any serious prepper skills then acquire the skills necessary to become a good prepper.

Skills are something that cannot be taken away from you. But, when you give them away so others can learn, then everyone benefits.

 

 

 

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Power, Politicians, Crushing People…and “Prepping” – Part 2

money and power go to the government at the expense of the peoplenote: this article originally appeared in March, 2015, edited July 2019

This is Part #2 of a two part series of posts about money & power, how it affects us now and, more importantly, how it will affect us in the future. And then the absolute most important part of this series, how “prepping” can mitigate the affects of “money & power” used against us.

In Part #1 (appeared 2 days ago on the 27th) I reviewed the last seven decades and how we slipped into bondage with the government as our master. I also showed how each President since Kennedy affected out country and who the real power was/is behind the curtain. I made it clear that

With money you can buy power (political power)

With money you can buy power.
With power you can acquire money.

“money & power” is the control of this country and how it has eliminated virtually all of our now extinct rights, freedoms and liberties over time.

Lets move on to the next installment of “money and power” – the relationship between the two is interesting.

The Ruling Class (our government, all layers of government) want virtually all of both money & power, leaving just enough to allow us to survive. Even giving us the allusion of thriving. Yes, that sounds diabolical and extremely conspiratorial. But I challenge you this, prove me wrong! Show me the actions of government at any level in the United States that isn’t sucking power away from individuals and taking it unto itself. Better yet, show me a single instance where the Executive or Legislative branches of the federal government is truly reinforcing an individual’s rights or liberties in any meaningful way!

In America today, the only people that will benefit from any government action do so at a price that others pay. So what little government gives back to one group of people (usually money) belongs to another people group of people, NOT the government. The government in America today, at all levels, only takes power, it never gives power. Why?

Because, “Power cannot be created or destroyed, it can only be moved from owner to another.”Government transfers wealth from those that earned it to those that don't deserve it.

Government cannot create power, but it can take power or move power from one group of people but only at the expense of that group. But even the ability of transferring power is against God-given natural rights. In America, government have always seized power and authority from the people, or bought it. It doesn’t give power back to its owners…the people.

Remember the saying you probably heard at some point in your life, “money is the root of all evil” or some variation of it? The truth is, the statement is far more accurate than most would think. But to me it is only half right. The half that is missing is “power.” So changing the saying slightly, “Power and money is the root of all evil!” now becomes absolutely true, yes?

Well, not really. Yeah, it sounded as if I was leading you down that path to say “yes”, but I am not done with that concept of money and power just yet. To continue to refine the saying I would have to ask, “can money and power be good, or at least can it be used for good?” I think anyone who has any intelligence would have to say “yes” to that question. So “money & power” by itself is not evil. However, how that money and power is used makes the outcome evil or good.

Yes, I make a clear distinction between good and evil. For me, anything that goes against God’s plan for us as individuals is evil. Conversely, anything that supports God’s plan for us is good.

Let us test that…

We know that God gave man agency, the right to choose what we do. Granted, there are consequences to doing evil (i.e. murder) but God does not force us to not murder. However, He teaches us the principle that it is wrong. And therein is the difference – “force.” When we are compelled into doing something we lose our agency. When we are free to choose, we enjoy or suffer the consequences of those decisions that comes from exercising our agency. Example: If we drive recklessly and cause harm or damage we should be held accountable for those actions based on the choice that we made top drive recklessly. Hence, we cause damage or harm we compensate those that were harmed by our actions/choices. However, if we drive recklessly and cause no damage or harm to anyone, what difference does it make to anyone?

Traffic statutes today are long, complicated and tedious. They are designed to compel us into certain types of behavior. The authorities use these statutes to control our behavior (i.e. reduce the ability to choose) regardless of any harm or damage actually being done to someone. Statistics would make a plea that traffic laws prevent accidents, thus saving lives and reducing property damage. This argument is completely and utterly false. If their primary concern was saving lives and reducing property damage they would prosecute drunk drivers to the fullest extent of the law. Or, they would advocate for the total elimination of cars since they represent and average 50,000 deaths per year in America.

Notice statists (those people who love government and use it to control people) will create statute after DUI Checkpoint Police State money makerstature to control behavior but are extremely lax in holding people accountable for their actions. And here is just one example of how that is done – there are large numbers of laws on the books to control people and their driving habits. There are even mandated DUI checkpoints wherein people are subjected to questioning, DUI Checkpoint - anti-constitutional bill or rights breaking police state toolsearches and mandatory sobriety testing; all without “probable cause” required by the Constitution. These mandatory checks even include forced blood draws as you are restrained, should you object to the field sobriety test.

But how many times have you heard one convicted drunk driver after another let off with a light, or no, sentence who then drinks and drives again killing someone? Exactly! There are plenty of “behavior control” laws but weak “enforcement” laws. Why is that do you think?

To answer that question we will subject the scenario mentioned above to the “money & power” test. We will take the easiest test first – power. When our DUI checkpoint police state tool to violate a persons rightsnon-harmful activity is controlled by the government does power move to the individual person, or is it taken from the person?

Example: A DUI checkpoint – without due process of law a large number of people are stopped against their will. They are questioned by law enforcement officers and often forced to submit to a variety of sobriety tests, including the potential for an invasive blood draw. So which way does the “power” flow? To the person…or to the government?

Let’s now touch on the money aspect. If a person is stopped for DUI what happens? Regardless of anything else, they are fined. And that money goes to a government entity. If the defendant seeks legal defense then money flows to lawyers. Regardless of the outcome of the case the legal system gains monetarily from the alleged DUI infraction.

Then with a DUI conviction on his drivers record insurance companies charge more for car insurance. And who issues business licenses to insurance companies? Correct, government agencies charge insurance companies for the right to conduct business in their states as well as charging a variety of other taxes including, in many cases, corporate income tax.Overtime Pay is the motivation for LEOs at DUI checkpoints

And interestingly enough…DUI is seldom discovered at DUI checkpoints; normally, it is expired insurance cards, expired drivers license, or out of date vehicle registration. All of which take money from the individual push it into the government bank accounts.

And finally, why are law enforcement offices so supportive of DUI checkpoints? Overtime Pay! Yup, money.

Federal government bribes cops to follow orders.And where does the money come from to pay that overtime to individual officers? The federal government.

The federal government sends billions and billions of dollars per year to local police departments. And why do you think they do that? In the old days they would call it what?

So regardless of any damage or harm done by the driver, power and money flow directly and indirectly from the individual to the government or government employees.

Apply that same test to every aspect of government intrusion in our lives. And I mean every single aspect. Now, be ready to answer a simple question.

Here’s the question –

Are you OK with this kind government action, taking of money and power from the individual by the government in every aspect of our lives?

President Andrew Jackson money and power concentrated in government.

Remember, power is neither created or destroyed. Power exists in only one spot at a time; either it rests with an individual or it rests with the government. And the individual must freely give it up; or, conversely, a government entity must take by force the power from the individual.

Let’s make the test even simpler. Do you trust individuals more than the government? Or, do you trust the government more than individuals? Who is easier to deal with in a dispute, an individual or a massive bureaucratic government?

So you really want to know what this has to do with “prepping” and such?

Well, it goes first to “mind set”; the mental capacity to understand what you are up against as your prepare for emergencies, disasters, or grid-down.Support Bill of Rights Second 2nd Amendment to the Constitution for gun ownership

Let me really test your “statist quotient“. Do you support the Second Amendment in the Bill of Rights? Do you?

OK, great! Please answer the following questions:gun control violates the Bill of Rights and loved by statists

  1. Federal regulations controlling civilians owning automatic weapons are appropriate?
  2. Federal law prohibiting convicted felons from owning guns is the right thing?
  3. Federal law prohibiting guns being sold online or shipped in the mail make perfect sense?
  4. Federal law requiring the 4473 form to be completed and FBI background checks just makes sense?
  5. Federal law preventing kids under the age of 18 from buying guns is needed for public safety reasons?
  6. Banning of ‘bumpstocks” or “slide fire” accessories is OK with me?

Well…the Second Amendment to the Constitution contained in the Bill of Rights states,

“…the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed.”

If you answered “yes” to or agreed with, any of the six questions above then you do NOT support the Constitution and you Statists support big government and no individual rights or freedoms.are a statist.

Yeah, you may not like it, but you are. Yes, you can argue it and debate it all you want, but the wording in the Second Amendment of the Bill of Rights is clear, perfectly clear. And you either support it or you don’t.

As soon as you start coming up with reasons to restrict gun ownership or gun purchasing then you become a big-government statist.

So why are there gun laws?  Apply the “money & power” test to it.

The federal government makes huge money off regulating guns. They do so through the BATF via gun dealers. If you want to own an automatic weapon, you have to pay a huge fee to the government for them to give you that privilege. So the “money” test clearly shows that money flows from the individual to the government.

sometimes freedom is dangerous, but it is always preferable to safe slavery

Freedom or “safe” slavery?

Now test the “power” aspect. Does the individual currently have the power to do as they wish within Constitutional rights? “No” is the only answer to that question.

Let’s take felons first since they are prohibited by federal law from owning a gun. Why? The Second Amendment makes NO exception to prohibit felons owning guns. So some politician decided to take that power from felons.

Can a minor buy a gun or does federal law prohibit that? Answer – minors can not buy a gun based on federal law because some politician decided to take that power away from individuals.

Can the federal government deny a person the right to buy a gun?

Yes. Through the 4473 form the federal government can prevent a person from purchasing for virtually any reason, including a simple mistake on the form itself. So does power flow from the government to an individual or has the government seized power from the individual?

And why does the statist, via the government, want this particular power, gun ownership, to move away from the people, and to the government?  Our Founding Fathers addressed that subject:

Statism wants you to believe you to have permission to be free.Thomas Jefferson said – “The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.”

George Washington said – “A free people ought not only to be armed but disciplined…”

George Mason said – “To disarm the people is the most effectual way to enslave them.”

Noah Webster – “Before a standing army can rule, the people must be disarmed, as they are in almost every country in Europe. The supreme power in America cannot enforce unjust laws by the sword; because the whole body of the people are armed, and constitute a force superior to any band of regular troops.”

Elbridge Gerry  – “What, Sir, is the use of a militia? It is to prevent the establishment of a standing army, the bane of liberty …. Whenever Governments mean to invade the rights and liberties of the people, they always attempt to destroy the militia, in order to raise an army upon their ruins.”

And why do you think they said those things?

Because they were all too familiar with the face of tyranny and its evil and its destructive power. Tyranny is not bottom-up…it is top-down from government against the people. Our Founding Fathers recognized the tyranny under British rule, opposed it, fought against it, some died fighting it, and they won freedom from it. They had no desire to allow tyranny to reign ever again in America.

That my friends is why the federal government promotes gun control, when they own the ballot box, there is only one last option to throw tyranny out. Now you understand why Progressives are such huge proponents of gun control, to preserve and promote power flowing to the government not to the individual. And Conservatives rarely object to those restrictions of gun ownership not being infringed.

Liberals, democrats. progressives, statists, communists, socialists support gun control and restrictions.Have I answered the “prepper” relationship question yet?

Let try this on you – applying it to any scenario where “preps” are needed, which way will the power be flowing?

Remember the terms “state of emergency”, “curfew”, “checkpoints”, “mandatory evacuations” to name just a few? Who loses power in these cases and who gains power?

Then there is the ultimate transfer of power, “martial law.” In this case, all power is moved to the government and the individual loses all their power, rights and liberties for as long as the government deems appropriate. And what is the outcome every time? Show me an example where the federal government seizes power, deprives rights and liberties to its citizens, and it turns out well.  And how do they control people under such a power grab?

They do it with a carrot and a stick. They promise food, hand out debit cards, open emergency shelters and pass FEMA teamout water. At what cost? You must do exactly as they say.

Do you want to depend on FEMA to take care of your family in times of need? The same government style bureaucrats that run the IRS?

Do you want that for you and your family when an emergency or disaster strikes? Or would you rather be self-sufficient? Or better yet, able to help out family, friends and community? You can only do that if you retain “power” within your situation. And you do that by NOT being dependent on what the government is offering.

The more power you retain to yourself, the ability to take care of you and your family, the less control the government has over you. And ask the people who were ever under total control of, at the mercy of, the federal government during any emergency or disaster. Ask them how did they do? How did it work out for them? Would they have avoided it if they could have?

FEMA disaster during Katrina

How did that worked out with FEMA during Katrina?

Now, let’s take the ultimate “grid-down” scenario; do you want to trust and to rely on the government to take care of your family? Would the government even have the capacity to do so?

Actually, let me ask a more fundamental question; what actions would the federal government take in the event of a “hard” grid-down? What policies would they implement?

Having a problem answering that question? Really? I doubt it.

Can you use the “power & money” test today in everyday life? Sure! Use it to test all things political, or anything related to the government. Simply look at who benefits in relation to the flow of money and the flow of power. Therein you will see who is the loser and who is the winner.

Net Neutrality is government police state control and lose of freedom for the individualExample: Net Neutrality.

Money: Through Net Neutrality the federal government is able, through the FCC, to charge any fee or tax to any aspect of the Internet industry just like they do phone and cable bills. Get out your cell phone bill and look at the extra charges on your bill levied by the government. So in the case of Net Neutrality the money flows from the individual and businesses to the federal government.

Power: Through Net Neutrality the federal government is able, through the FCC, to control and dictate to any Internet related company whatever policies they, the FCC, deems appropriate. The same is true for TV, radio, cable, and Ham licensing. They can control access, content, speed, and every other aspect now enjoyed by the individual person.

In the case of Net Neutrality both power and money flow from the individual to the government resulting in a huge loss of freedom, rights, and liberty for the individual. The government took control, again

As you prepare for emergencies, disasters and “grid-down” think about the way those scenarios might play out. Prepare yourself mentally on how to deal with it by understanding principles.

To better understand today’s political environment simply apply the “money & power” test against any law, policy, proposal, rule, or speech. Where does the money go?  Who gains the power? Answer those two questions and you will know the difference between good and evil.

money and power used by the federal government creates tyranny at the loss of rights and freedom.

money and power used by the federal government creates tyranny at the loss of rights and freedom. money and power used by the federal government creates tyranny at the loss of rights and freedom. money and power used by the federal government creates tyranny at the loss of rights and freedom.

 

 

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Power, Politicians, Crushing People…and “Prepping” – Part 1

Thomas Jefferson quote on power turns into tyranny.note: this article first appeared in March, 2015. Edited in July 2019.

Pretty dramatic title to this post but I assure you it is 100% accurate and timely. How does it apply to “prepping” for emergencies, disasters and grid-down? Well, that my friend is why you need to read both Part # & Part #2 articles. You won’t be disappointed. And you will be far better prepared because you will more fully understand human nature, albeit the darker side of human nature.President John F. Kennedy was a powerful politician from a powerful political criminal family

So let’s cover a little background first – I’m old. I can remember President Kennedy. Granted I was young at the time, but I remember my parents talking about him and I remember when he was killed. President Kennedy was seen by most as a strong leader with America’s best interest as a priority. While he might not have been a Progressive, but he was for sure part of the Ruling Class.

Ruling Class? Yeah, sorry, I should explain that term since I will be referring Ruling Class in America controls power through money and becomes powerfulto it regularly in this article. The “Ruling Class” are those people and families that have the real power in our country. Yes, the same could be said for the world; but for now I am just talking about our country. There are the old money families of the Ruling Class and new money members.

The new money are those individuals that have so much money that has been recently acquired that they simply “buy” their way into becoming part of the Ruling Class. But the old money members of the Ruling Class are the most powerful.

A few examples of Old Money Families (will include descendants with other family names) – Brzesinski, Bush, Carters, Cheneys, Clinton, Emanuel, Ford, Morgans, Rockefeller, Roosevelts, Rothschild, Udall, Vanderbilt.

A few examples of New Money Families (will include descendants and relatives with other family names) – Allen, Bloomberg, Gates, Koch, Lewis, Louis-Dreyfus, Murdoch, Pew, Soros, Zukerberg.President Lyndon B. Johnson power Progressive welfare pimp

After liberal Kennedy was killed then came President Johnson. He was an extreme Progressive. He loved both war and Marxism/Socialism. He excelled at both. He was responsible for the huge increase in social programs designed to establish and maintain a permanent welfare class of people. The program was called The Great Society. A greater implementation of socialism in America hadn’t been seen since the introduction of massive socialist programs during the FDR years.

President Nixon Progressive power player and corruptThen came Nixon. Nixon was an interesting guy, a Progressive and globalist, but also inept and void of morals on a personal level. He was the first president that I really paid attention to, that I was “politically aware” of. He failed our country with the Watergate Scandal. Interesting how minor in nature the Watergate Scandal was compared to later presidents. But the country was full of anger, hate and pent-up frustration over the Vietnam War; Nixon bore the brunt of all it…deservedly so.

President Gerald Ford was ex-CIA power progressive croniePresident Ford was a complete waste of time. His sole purpose was to pardon Nixon and then fade away into history. He was an utter waste as a president. However, he established a new type of person to move into high office, established career government officials from intelligence community (i.e. CIA dark spook types) and a globalist as well.

President Carter a Progressive extremist and anti-semticWhen Jimmy Carter was elected president I knew the country was in serious trouble. Jimmy Carter comes across as this kindly gentle grandfather. But he is anything but that. He is a wolf in sheep’s clothing. He absolutely hates anything related to Jews, loves everything Muslim and he is a raging Progressive and globalist. His four years as president was almost enough to destroy America. And there is absolutely ZERO doubt in my mind that his mission was to turn America into a third-world country. He nearly succeeded.

President Ronald Reagan loved America and was a conservative, saved America from jimmy carter.Just when the country was about to collapse, America elected Ronald Reagan. If you weren’t alive back then you have no idea just how much Reagan meant to our country. He was the last remaining Reagan said "government is not the solution to our problem. government is the problem."hope to turn America around from certain destruction. And he did. Reagan pointed out the evils of government and how we could choose a great America or a dark and destructive America. He gave us a pretty decent America for 8 years. He was not perfect and wasn’t able to do all that was needed, or promised, but he opened many people’s eyes to the utter evils of Progressivism and globalism. I was one of those people that woke up. When he said, “Government is not the solution to the problem. Government is the problem!” made me realize for the first time in my life exactly where this country was headed, why, and how disastrous it would be when we arrived…if we didn’t change course.President H.W. Bush another progressive president. A wolf in sheep's clothing.

Then America got suckered into electing George H. W. Bush. There was great hope that he would continue resurrecting of America through Constitutional and conservative principles. Unfortunately Bush was a liar and just another Progressive and globalist. Bush came from an “old money” family that was establishing itself as a family political dynasty. Bush came up through the political ranks and served as the Director of the CIA as did President Ford. That should have been the clue for American voters. He was nothing more than a career political lusting for power and wealth…establishing a political dynasty.

President Bill Clinton a rabid corrupt progressive, impeached, criminal sold out americaThen the country was ready for a change and wanted someone young; Bill Clinton was elected. Clinton is a dedicated hardcore Progressive/globalist and the latest version of leadership evil. He was void of any morals or ethics. He lived his life as a hedonist without any regard for his family or his country. He was the ultimate politician concerned with only three things; power, money, and feeding his debauchery. Clinton was able to sell out America from the groundwork that Bush had started. Clinton had the very rare honor of being one of only two U.S. presidents to ever be impeached.

President George Bush another progressive neo-con. a wolf in sheep's lothing taking away individual rights, freedoms and liberty.People got tired of Clinton’s style of immorality and decadence and wanted someone with some morals. America elected George W. Bush. On the surface George W. Bush seemed like another Ronald Reagan, someone that could steer America away from the destruction that Clinton had caused. Few knew just how Progressive Bush was and how much he loved war as a globalist. When 9/11 struck, the massive Progressive machine saw a perfect opportunity to move against America. A series of laws that included the Patriot Act and Patriot Act under president bush took away rights, freedoms and liberty in teh name of securityExecutive Orders eliminated many of our Constitutional rights. The NDAA continued a relentless onslaught against the Constitution and allowed the federal government massive unilateral authority over Americans without the protection of the Bill of Rights or the rule of law. The Constitution was on life-support under Bush #2. As Bush concluded his presidency a financial crisis began that looked as if it would rival that of the Great Depression. Bush, along with his Progressive cronies, moved against America implementing a financial “bailout” that moved massive amounts of wealth from the average person to the hands of the ruling class.

President Barak Husein Obama is left-wing extremist radical tool of the progressivesThen the darkest days of America struck; Barak Hussein Obama was elected. Obama is the ultimate extremist Progressive and globalist. His elitist anti-American beliefs run deep. His abject hatred of the Constitution and our founding principles are evident in everything he does. His socialist/marxist beliefs are President Obama is transforming American into a totalitarian state.even more socialist/marist in nature than President Franklin D. Roosevelt’s. Obama wants nothing less than the destruction of America as a Constitutional Republic and transforming it into a Progressive totalitarian utopia. He was well on his way before his 8 years were up..

What does this trip down memory lane have to do with “prepping”???? Please be patient, I need to make my case and that takes background information to get the whole picture.

So what happened during the 54 years of presidents that I just reviewed?

A massive, history making, power shift took place. More accurately, a massive power shift accelerated. Power was moved from the individual to the government. I use the term “accelerated” because it actually started long before President Kennedy…around the turn of the century when the Progressive movement really started and propaganda (public relations) was born.

Albert Einstein gave us an eternal truth “Energy cannot be created or destroyed, it can only be changed from one form to another.” I would like to modify that universal law with your permission. “Power cannot be created or destroyed, it can only be changed from one form to another.” But I don’t speak of “power” in the sense of physics or thermal dynamics; I speak of it in terms of politics and government.

When it comes to politics and government power can only exist in one place at a time. When it comes to an issue, either an individual has power, or the government has power. It is absolutely impossible for both to have it equally.

Let me explain…

According to our Founding Fathers, the Declaration of Independence, the Constitution, and a long list of people dating back America's Founding Fathers wanted to prevent tyranny multiple-hundreds of years…all “rights” come from God. Hence the terms “God-given rights”, “inalienable rights” and “natural rights” was the foundation of our Constitutional Republic here in the United States. So the “power” comes from God and was placed in the hands of the people according to all the great minds of the last 400 years or more. As a Christian I know that to be true; God gave us certain rights. While this is not a discourse in natural rights, it is understood that people have the right to; defend themselves, own property, pursue their life’s ambitions, and to do so without the interference Natural Rights are god-given rights to individuals not governmentsof government. The caveat to that is that a person is entitled to do so as long as their exercise of natural rights doesn’t impinge on another person’s exercise of their natural rights.

So the very basics of natural rights for the last 400+ years has been that power originates from God, rests in the hands of the individual, and government may receive power only from the consent of the people.

In most societies people delegate some of that power to different levels of government for convenience; but never relinquish it. Our Constitution and associated Bill of Rights spells out those limited instances where the people delegate a restricted amount of power to government. But most of the Constitution and Bill of Rights is a document outlining the restrictions placed on government exercising power against people. Why? Because our Founding Fathers lived under tyranny and wanted to ensure that America didn’t suffer that same fate again. So from God our rights are given to us and the Constitution ensures it stays that way.

Unfortunately it is the nature of most men to desire control over others; and government is a perfect mechanism to do so.

We have seen over the last 200 years a gradual shift of power from the individual to the government. And I speak of government at all levels. Since the advent of Progressivism (simply a Communism/Socialism version of Liberalism on a global level) in the late 1800’s a shift of Liberalism Progressivism socialism communismpower has taken place from the individual to government has accelerated dramatically. Today we see ourselves, as individuals, at the mercy of multiple layers of government. We have virtually no true freedoms & rights left, even the basics of “life, liberty and the pursuit of happiness” that was outlined in the Constitution are quickly evaporating.

The basic tenant of Progressivism is that a certain group of elitist people (i.e. the Ruling Class) knows what is best for the masses. And then they impose that agenda by force on everyone through the power of the government.

A case could be made that Progressives originally had a well-intentioned objective, “to cure the ills from the industrial revolution.” But in reality Progressivism is nothing more than a massive attempt to shift power to a very small ruling class of people. And those elites “would set America right because they knew what was best for all Americans.” However, that meant they had to force it upon Americans because individuals had to be deprived of their Tryanny can come from good intentions.natural rights to enable the government to gain enough power. And that began the shift of power from the individual to the layers of governments. All in the name of good intentions, but a steady march towards authoritarianism.

One of the the first true large-scale shifts of basic power came under President Franklin D. Roosevelt when he managed to create situations where individuals became dependent on government money. The next large-scale power shift came under President Lyndon B. Johnson when his “Great Society” created the permanent welfare class of people in the U.S. who were dependent on the federal government for virtually everything. And those moves ensured a huge permanent voting block for Democrats because the welfare class would always vote for more handouts, and the Democrats were always ready to do just that.

Once the individual was significantly subjugated about mid-1990’s, another massive shift of power was well underway, and it was accelerating with each passing year. That power shift consisted of moving power from the local levels of government (i.e. cities, counties, and states) to the federal government. As of early 2015 that shift of power is nearly complete. Meaning? The federal government has consolidated virtually all power unto itself. Where the federal government lacks statutory power, it creates monetary power. Simply put, whatever power the federal government has not been able to legislate away from lower levels of government it has bought.Money and Power - William Cobbett

And therein lays the basis of today’s world – money and power.

Yes, money and power.Money and Power - Ayn Rand

 

 

 

In Part #2 (day after tomorrow) I will continue to explain how all this fits together and most importantly, I will explain how “prepping” can be the answer to arresting the effect of “money & power” on you and your family.

 

 

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Ozark Trail 150-Lumen Multi-Color Headlamp

headlamp ozark trail walmart 150 lumenThis is one of those “Wow!” moments. Yeah…seriously.

You know me, I am a gear junkie of the worst sort. I am always looking at emergency preparedness gear. It is sooooo bad I have had several hundred dollars worth of small-battery chargers sitting around my home office for months while I work on those articles. So yes, I am a gear junkie!

And…sometimes a piece of gear comes along that just absolutely surprises me. That just happened again…at Walmart. Yup, Walmart! Not that long ago I wrote an article about finding the Ozark Trail Multi-Tool at Walmart for $3.97. I bought a couple, tried them out, and absolutely loved them for the price vs value of that piece of gear. It’s happened again!

My wife and I were heading to our property in Arizona for a long weekend of fence mending, homesite scouting, etc. One of the things that I wanted us to have on hand was a headlamp. I didn’t want to breakout one of our good Petzl or Princeton headlamps, I just wanted a real simple, virtually disposable, headlamp for night walks or around camp. Off to Walmart!

So I was looking around and they had a pretty decent variety for the most part, all third-tier units or worse, in my opinion. Then I spotted this little sporty little headlamp for $8.97 I think the price was. But, it was only 50 lumens as the retail package was telling me in bright orange coloring. Ah, but next to it was its bigger brother…”bigger” in terms of lumen, not size. And it was priced at $12.97. A really outstanding price for a 150 lumen headlamp.

Let me divert for just a second, when using a headlamp at night I far prefer the red light vs. the white light. I have very good night vision and white light just destroys that. But, using a red light maintains that night vision once you turn the headlamp off.

For the $12.97 price tag I figured that there would be no way the headlamp would have a red light option. I was wrong. Sure enough right there on the package it said there was a red light setting. Now, if it was anything like most headlamps’ operations getting to the red would be click this, while hold that, and doing thus for 3 seconds after pressing the other button for 2 seconds…making sure it was a cloudy night and standing on one foot. But, I was OK with that…I headlamp ozark trail walmart 150 lumenwas spending $12.97. Especially when I saw the headlamp package contained batteries…Duracell batteries!

I got home and started packing later that night. It came time to pack the headlamps in our respective gadget bags. I opened up the retail packaging and was again pleased to see the Duracell batteries. Duracell batteries…the best alkaline batteries made…period.

OK, so I am putting the batteries in the headlamp and I am actually impressed with the housing. Seems plenty durable enough. I hate the shiny sheen to the plastic but the housing is decent enough. There isn’t any rubber gasket sealing the battery compartment, but there is a respectable “lip” and the compartment closed pretty dang ozark trail 150 lumen headlamp - walmartsecurely. I have no idea if it will hold up underwater -I doubt it- but it appears that it would handle rain just fine.

I turned the unit on and there were two settings for the white light; high, low. The high was plenty bright enough to see a large area clearly. The low setting still provide a whole lot of light but in a much smaller area. But…where was that all elusive red light setting. I gave up and read the directions. Pressing and holding the “on” button for 2 seconds turned on the red light. That’s it…just press the same “on” button…just hold it for 2 seconds. I liked that.

We used them every night during a four-night stay. They worked every single time, they were easy to use, the headband in strong, comfortable, and nicely adjustable. A great little piece of equipment…VERY nice when you consider it only costs $12.97.

I say buy this headlamp!!

Note: This article originally posted in 2016. I bought three of these units and they are still working now in 2019.

Buy It !

 

 

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TIP: Road Atlas – One of the best sources of information and intelligence

Rand McNally Road Atlasnote: first appeared November 2015

I was a member of a national incident management team in the Operations Section for six years. We handled a wide range of disasters in a large area of the country. One of the most frustrating and limiting issues we faced in the Operations Section was “maps.” Yes, maps. Or rather, the lack thereof.

We would arrive in an area for a new assignment and most of us wouldn’t know much about the region, especially how to get around from a transportation perspective. We would ask for road maps and we would get blank stares in return. They knew their way around so they expected the same from us. It got so bad that one of the first things I would do is go to a gas station and buy a county road map with my own money.

Then one day my long-haul truck driving son showed me a road atlas. It was for the entire United States but the road detail was amazing. I bought one. Then one day I was in a truck stop and saw an atlas for just my state. It was Delorme Atlas & Gazetteeramazing! The road detail was right down to abandoned two-track roads out in the forests and desert. And it had shaded topographic relief as well as topographic contour lines. I bought one right then and there!

Why is this so important? Think about it for a minute. If you have to “bug-out” during a grid-down do you know where you are going and how to get there? What if the main roads are all closed? What if the secondary roads are closed? What if even the dirt roads aren’t available? Would you know what to do and where to go?

My answer? Road atlas.

That would also be just as true for an evacuation associated with a disaster if a full-blown grid-down wasn’t the problem for you at the time.

If I didn’t have an Atlas right now…

First one I would buy is a United States Atlas. Cost: $13 – $20. Essentially each two-page spread is a state. Some military Road Atlasof the bigger or more complex states have more than just the two-page spread. They also have additional page(s) for larger city areas.

Then next, I would buy a state atlas for the state in which I live. Cost: $13 – $20. This state road atlas will break Delorme Atlas & Gazetteer statesdown your state into small sections and provide amazing detail of what is contained in that area. All of the roads, many of the trails, lakes, stream, springs, etc. There are other points of interest that will be of real value to preppers such as campgrounds, local and state parks, etc.

After I own those two atlas options I would purchase the closest neighboring state’s road atlas. Alternatively, I would look at a purchasing the state that you feel you might have to travel to your destination. Another valid purchase would be RoadAtlas-002the state you have to travel through should your “bug-out” require you to leave your own state.

So, for well under $50 you can have some amazing intelligence and information that could prove absolutely priceless. Think if you had to go out on a scavenging mission and you weren’t real familiar with the area that you would be working in.

RoadAtlas-004Now, consider you have a detailed road atlas of the area. Do you think your job just a whole lot easier…and safer?

Let me ask you this, “Have you ever been lost while in a stressful situation?”

Or, “Have you ever wanted to know the fastest or shortest way to get somewhere?”

How about if you had all that information at your finger tips?

So, why not just use a GPS or a laptop or some other technical “gadget” to get the job done?

Murphy’s Law lives and breathes…especially when it comes to electronics. Don’t count on electronic gadgets when you really need them. If you are in love with your techno gadgets…have a “Plan B” and that would be good old fashioned map and compass.

You wanted an “edge” for prepping…I just gave you one.

 

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House Security : Strengthen your door… (Part #3)

This has been a fun series of articles to write…at least so far. It is refreshing to get back into writing about really serious stuff. It’s also similar to writing my fiction books as well…and I always enjoy that!

In the first article I wrote about some common ways to strengthen your front door. In the second article I shared some hardcore ideas on how to barricade your door to hinder even the most committed home invaders. And then I touched on the “flight” aspect of the “fight or flight” options when serious danger comes busting through your door.

Read the two previous articles before continuing…it will help.

First article appeared on 8/21/2019 <click here to read>

Second article appeared yesterday. <click here to read>

In this article I will talk a little bit about how to defend your home that is being invaded by a determined enemy during a grid-down scenario. I am setting the foundation that there is no police force available and/or capable of responding. In a TEOTWAWKI it may be a rogue bunch of former police or a gang, or simply bad guys hunting food that are the problems. In any event, for the purposes of this article…life sucks and bad guys are trying to do a home invasion on you and your family.

Fight –

To protect yourself and your family you want to keep the bad guys as far away from you as possible. But, if they get into your home, your castle, you better be ready to defend your precious family. I call this the Castle a king fights to defend his castleDoctrine. Simply put, you are responsible for the safety of your home (i.e. your “Castle”) and all those that dwell therein. If you are not going to defend them, who will? Seriously, if you are not prepared to defend your family and friends that have taken refuge in your home what good are you? If someone else is going to defend them instead of you, is it really your castle? The whole concept of the Castle Doctrine is you being responsible for defending your home and the people in it. If not you, who?

OK, enough of me preaching! So…the bad guys are attempting to invade your home. You’ve taken all the reasonable precautions you could…but here they come. You ruled out “flight” as an option. You have decided to “fight” to defend your castle.

Your plan is to kill the bad guys trying to criminally enter your home. Scaring them away is not going to work. Simply injuring them, to try and convince them to stop their home invasion, is not going to work. Your plan better include the term “kill.”

Think about this for a minute, a well-trained and organized group of bad guys is trying to invade your home. To begin with, by default that means they intend to do you and/or your family grave harm. Now, you decide you will just shoot them in the arm to make them stop. OK, they stopped. Now what? Do you think there won’t be a next time? And, what exactly do you think their plan would be next time?

I hope that reality check convinced you to clarify your “fight” plan a little more. So, we’ve decided our plan is to fight, and we aren’t going to try and scare them off or just injure them. You are ½ way to victory now that you have clear intent. Now what?

First, let’s look at the psychology of what is happening. The home invaders consider themselves in charge of the situation, they think they are running this show. They know what they want to do and how they are going to do it. Your job is to disrupt their “heads”, get in their mind, and screw them up to the point where you are now the one running the scene. For you that have had formal training…you are going to get inside their loop…their OODA Loop.

So let’s get to it…

Their Expectations – They expect to come up to the door, and with some minimal amount of difficulty, breach the door and enter your house. Once inside they will proceed to whatever room they feel is the target of most value. And in their mind, the term “value” might apply to your wife and daughter, or food, or fuel, or valuables, or food. While doing so they will eliminate (i.e. kill) any resistance. It is your job to stop them from doing harm…stopping them at all cost.

My suggestion is you already started to defeat them with the measures you’ve taken that I already outlined in my first two articles. In their minds –

a)   They know they were observed approaching the house.

b)   They heard the dog(s) barking and now have to worry that they might be bitten and that the occupants and neighbors will hear the dog(s) barking.

c)   They aren’t seeing as well as they would be normally due to the bright lights that they had to deal with as they approached the door.

d)   Then they ran into a really well reinforced door that they are having a hard time breaching.

All of this is disrupting their plan. They have not expected this kind of resistance. That alone may have persuaded them to move on to easier pickings. But, I said we would be dealing with well-trained, determined bad guys so let’s continue. But, whoever they are, they have had their plan disrupted and they are now off their game a little bit and wondering who is doing this. What do you know? How well trained are you, and how badly will they get hurt at your hands.

Let’s take it up a notch. Since they were greatly delayed in breaching the door you have had time to respond. Your family is safely tucked away in the “Alamo Room.” You are now ready to get inside their OODA Loop even more. They aren’t expecting to deal with an occupant who takes the offensive. They don’t expect resistance until they enter the house. (Read the OODA Loop article that I wrote on 8/14/2019) So let’s disrupt them even further…

  • From a window or some other opening that is safe and undetectable, open fire on those trying to breach the door. Or better yet, as they approach the house to being with. If they have not yet reached the house use a carbine, I prefer and AR but an AK is plenty sufficient. Just poor the fire on them, rain lead on them like they have never seen it before.AR-15 Magazine - Beta Drum magazine
    • A Beta Magazine System AR-15 100-Round Drum Magazine is a wonderful accessory for your AR. It holds a ton of ammo and let’s you cut loose without worrying to reload. While it may not be ideal for lugging around in the field, it is great for fixed-position stationary work.
    • Add a Slide Fire to your AR and now you are laying out a virtually full-auto Slide Fire for AR-15welcome mat to the bad guys. And since you are using it on an AR you have great shot control. (Don’t use if they have become illegal by a radical liberal President or Congress who have chosen to ignore the Consitution. However, in lawless grid-down…your choice.)
    • If there is more than one defender for your home then get the bad guys in a crossfire as they approach the house, say about 10 – 15 yards. Now make sure there are no “cover” positions and you will cut them down so fast they will feel the heat of hell before they know what is happening.
  • We will assume for whatever reason that the bad guys have reached the house. They are stacking-up outside the door waiting for their point man to breach the door with some tool or simply blow off the hinges with a shotgun. But remember, they are expecting you to be cowering inside in fear for your life. They are not expecting you to take the offensive. They feel that they are inside your OODA Loop. They will stack up o the hinge side of the door. It is easier for them to enter the house straight rather then make a turn…so they will stack on the hinge side of the doorway.
  • However, they are now struggling to get the door open enough to get inside the house. Great!!!  Use that time to convince them that is not a good idea. Start shooting them through the door. Or, unless you’ve reinforced your homes exterior walls start shooting them through a wall.
    • Aim about pelvis/thigh high and cut loose on them. Better yet, get them in a crossfire so they can’t easily retreat in one direction. You are aiming pelvis high in case they are wearing body armor or have a shield. Once they go down, it is easier to finish it up, than just plastering their ballistic plates.
    • But once again, you have to pour lead at them…I mean a whole lot of lead. Send it downrange on them so fast that they can’t take time to do anything but fall down. If you are using 30-round mags (loaded to 28 rounds I hope), then have mags ready to swap as fast as you can. Don’t let up until they are completely defeated. If you give bad guys a single break of any kind they will take advantage of you and kill you…or worse. Can you imagine two people unloading a couple of 100 or even 30-round mags on a group of bad guys!! You can fire 3 – 5 rounds a second with an AR, two people would be 6 – 10 rounds a second!!! Have a third person hold fire until the first two go empty, then the third person stars firing while the first two reload. Get after it!!!! Don’t give them any time or space to retake the offensive…pour it on and don’t let up. If they can recover the offensive…you are dead.
  • Remember, They will be coming through the doorway once they get the door breached (opened). That is a 3′ x 7′ opening. If you concentrate on the thigh/pelvic region it is about 6 square feet. Aim at the small area and just keep shooting as they try to come in. Stack them up in a pile as they try to enter…they then have to climb over their dead badguy buddies to get in. That slows them down considerably. You can then shoot more badguys easier.

NOTE: If you are going to go all Rambo on the bad guys and rain lead, make sure your AR is really wet. An AR-15 is made to run really wet. Get it wet, keep it wet, and let it rain lead! (Read my article on Slip 2000 EWL that I posted on 8/2/2019)

  • OK, for this discussion let’s say they have made it past the door and they are making entry. At this point I would suggest using a shotgun with 00 buck in case they are professional criminals wearing some level of body armor or using a bullet resistant shield. A 00 Buck round will hit them like a Mack Truck. Even if it hits them in a ballistic plate it will knock the air out of them, maybe even knock them out, and put them on the ground with ease.Siaga 12 with 20-round magazine to counter a door breach
    • My opinion is the Siaga 12 shotgun is the best weapon for this scenario. The drum magazine holds 20 rounds, one in the chamber, and you can pull the trigger as fast as you want. Each pull of the trigger is sending a concentrated burst of nine 32cal bullets at them. I can get off about 2-3 rounds a second when I am on my game. Think for a moment if you are on the receiving end of that!
  • If you haven’t already opened fire on them as they approached the house, and you were waiting until they came through the door, the home invaders will not be expecting someone to start shooting at them.They are probably thinking this will be just another “job” for them. You are really inside their loop, but the best of them have trained for this possibility.
  • Here is the goal…your goal…stop them at the entrance of the door…the doorway. As they come through the door they can only come one at a time, and you know exactly where to aim…the doorway. They will be trying to come in fast and hard, they want to use violence of action. It is your job to keep them from doing that. Stop them as they enter the doorway. A side benefit…if they are coming in too hard and fast they might well trip over the lead guy when he goes down. Take advantage of that…they are stationary, easy targets. Keep them from getting up.

NOTE: There will be no time for a mag-swap! Have more than one shotgun ready, or more than one carbine. You must keep up the rate of fire to stop the attack. If you have multiple people stagger your fire. Make sure at least one person is always firing at the door. That means you must stagger your reloading. To be that disciplined you must train for it. Go out to the range and practice one person rapid fire while the other holds fire. Then yell “loading” so the other person can them open fire while the first person is reloading. Keep doing that until you have the process down…without having to think about it.

NOTE: If they are really well trained they may employ a flashbang, smoke, or gas. All three of those devices are simply to get inside your loop.

1 – For a flashbang, close your eyes, cover your ears, and open your mouth. The sound will be very loud and potentially disorienting. If you have properly planned ahead you are already wearing eye protection, electronic hearing protection, and maybe even have a gas mask ready. One they toss a flashbang they will immediately enter. They want to catch you while you are still disoriented. You must be alert! You cannot let them in the house! As soon as the flashbang goes off you must open fire! Just aim at the door opening and start pulling the trigger. No need to aim at a specific person or a specific area of the person…just shoot!

2 – For a smoke device, they will wait for a couple of seconds after deploying it while the smoke fills the space covering their entrance. The smoke will not hurt you! Count to two and then begin firing at the doorway even if you can’t see anyone entering. If they haven’t started to enter yet they will hesitate. You just got back inside their loop and retook the initiative.

3 – For tear gas, this tactic is meant to disorient and disarm you. With snot and tears pouring out of you it might be a little difficult to see what you are doing. Too bad! You either get your gas mask on or start firing at the doorway. Yeah, you may not be able to see the doorway, but you should have oriented yourself well enough that you don’t have to see it…you just have to pour lead into it. You must ignore the problem with the gas…don’t worry about it…you won’t die from the gas. You must pour lead into the doorway…or you may die from their lead injections.

Defeating all three – DON’T LET THEM GET CLOSE ENOUGH TO USE THEM! Yup, pretty simple…keep them far enough away so they can’t use them. If you are worried about the teargas gun launching round after round through your windows…don’t! They probably aren’t that sophisticated. And it they are…well, your windows and doors are prepared to stop those rounds and they bounce back into their approach route hindering their approach. Yeah, that means you have protected your windows just like your doors. Remember the hurricane/security film?

Couple of thoughts if they are still outside the house –

  1. If they appear to have one or more members of their team watching for an ambush (lookouts) then consider not shooting. I would suggest you tossing a smoke producing device in the middle of them if you can do it without being shot. That would really make them wonder what the heck is going on. You just got inside their loop, they haven’t trained for this specific option more than likely. So they have probably just hesitated to regroup or discuss their next step. Use that time!!!!  Do something more!
  2. If they have a vehicle or two parked at a distance with people in it, open fire on that unit. They surely aren’t expecting that. I can almost guarantee you that the folks trying to breach the door will break off their effort in response to a firefight with their vehicle folks. And that vehicle is probably housing their command folks. They will regroup to protect their command personnel. If you are hardcore preppers and in a location you have properly prepared, you may have some external security folks pre-positioned. If so, attack their command post.
  3. If you really want to disrupt their operation light them up, I mean literally. If the environment and setting allows it, hit them with some version of a Molotov Cocktail. No one wants to burn to death or even get seriously injured by fire. Use that to your advantage.

Let’s go back, let’s talk about that they have resisted your efforts to fight them outside, they have breached your door, the plywood with bars or a cargo net has been defeated, and now they are making entry into your house. Remember, they are determined criminals, and if they have made it this far, they are probably highly trained. But, you can still win if you take the right steps, have reasonably reliable equipment, you don’t panic, and you have an unstoppable goal to win. Because winning means you protect your family from harm…your family stays alive. Losing means your family will be harmed by the bad guys and that is simply not an option.

Remember the story of the 300 Spartans? It is probably one of the most famous stories of fighting men in the history of the world. 300 Spartans held off a Persian army of hundreds of thousands. And it was brilliance and 300Spartans-001simplicity that they employed. The Spartans were some of the best warriors in the world, maybe ever. And they knew that one-on-one they could defeat an oncoming enemy with ease. The Persians used a wholly different tactic, they would overwhelm any potential enemy by sheer numbers. So the Spartans took that advantage away from the Persians. The Spartans took the initiative, they fought the Persians on their ground, they got inside the Persian ODAA Loop.

So the Spartans decided where the battle would take place, they took the ground in a very narrow pass where only a limited number of the enemy could enter at any one time. Some experts think it was an area where only about 12 – 20 men shoulder to shoulder could fit at any one time. That severely limited the number of men that the Persians could throw at the Spartans at any one time. Any more than that would stack up behind the men in front and thus be ineffective. And that put the advantage to the Spartans.

You do the same thing with your defense of your home, you stack them up at the door.

I have not seen where more than one man can fit through a standard 36” entrance door at any one time. So the bad guys will be coming through the door one at a time. That entrance will be made even more complicated by the plywood and cargo net that you have used to impede their entrance. As they appear in the doorway/entrance you shoot them.  Yes, you can shoot them in the lower intestinal and groin area as well. Be cautious about shooting them center mass, some of the criminals now may be wearing body armor or carrying a ballistic shield.

One really positive advantage of shooting them in the doorway will be almost assuredly no one else will be able to get through the doorway until the downed man is move out of the way. That being said, it might not always be true. There are some folks that are trained to be bulldozers. Regardless of what happens to the man in front of them, they will push with all their might to get through the door…even if means pushing the dead guy into the room as he is falling. So you have to be ready to keep up a furious rate of fire at the door!

The area you are shooting into is called the “cone of death” for those entering. It is their goal, singular goal, to get out of the cone of death as quickly as possible by getting inside the house/room and away from the doorway. It is your job to not let that happen. So, a slow firing weapon is not an option. A low capacity weapon is not an option. You have to work the problem with a high-capacity, high-rate of fire weapon. An AR or AK with 30-round mags is my minimum recommendation. An AR or AK with a reliable (Beta Magazine) high capacity drum magazine, preferably 100-round.

A shotgun is an option for a one-man defensive action, but it must be a semi-auto shotgun with a high-capacity drum magazine.I already talked about the Siaga 12 with 20-round drum magazine.

An AR-15 with 30-round PMags is minimally acceptable. An AR-15 with a 100-round Beta Magazine drum magazine would be better. I would use a 62gr bullet, alternate rounds between a regular lead round and M855 AP round. That will help deal with body armor should the criminals be wearing it.

And yes, I am perfectly fine with an AR-10 as your weapon. A 147gr NATO round would work just fine. I wouldn’t AR10XProductMagazine-001worry about an AP round at this point because that 7.62 round is going to take any of them out of the fight, body armor or not. The only drawback to an AR-10 would be the smaller capacity magazines. If you have one of the 50-round X-Product drums, that would remove the only drawback of low-capacity mags. There would also be the psychological effect of that big gun booming away taking down the bad guys. Once gain, just be careful that you don’t over heat your weapon. You fire an AR-10 fast enough, long enough, the AR10XProductMagazine-002barrel will glow red. A POF AR-10 is probably your best weapon for this option.

Let me review a couple of things…there are a couple challenges to take note of here, and they are important –

  • If these are really professional bad guys they may have a couple of tricks up their sleeve used in conjunction with breaching the door. Once they get the door open even a little bit they may throw in a flashbang grenade. It is not the end of the world. A flashbang is meant to disorient and disable you…not kill you. There will be a really, really, flash of very bright light. Along with that flash of light will be a deafening “boom” that is designed to render you deaf and very disoriented. You can fight through it if you are ready for it. Cover your eyes, or at least look away from the device and close your eyes tightly. Then cover your ears with your hands. Make sure your mouth is open to balance the pressure differences between inside of your ears, and the pressure wave created by the “boom.”
  • Next, here’s the important point…once that device goes off they are coming through the door. There won’t be any delay or hesitation…they will come busting in. Your job is to stop that from happening. You have to starting sending lead into the cone of death as fast as you can, even if you are not taking true aim at the exactly right spot. Get your weapon pointed that direction and pull the trigger as fast as you can. You have to stop that initial entry before they can get through the doorway.
  • If there is anyway you can have your hearing protection on you will really appreciate it. Not just the sound produced from the flashbang device, but just the shooting alone will be very noisy. OK, it will be absolutely deafening. Your ear protection will be a huge asset to you in keeping your wits about you and staying focused.
  • Another option a highly trained home invasion team might employ is tear gas, or some other irritant. They will breach the door and toss in one or more canisters of gas. However, in this instance they will not follow immediately. They will wait a pre-determined amount of time to allow the gas to disable any potential person that might offer resistance. Tear gas, while very irritating, is not deadly for the average person. Someone with COPD might die from it, but not the average person. I have been gassed multiple times during training. While it isn’t pleasant, it is very survivable. With enough determination you can also fight through it. To do so, keep your weapon in your hands, stay focused on the cone of death, start sending lead down range as soon as people appear in the breach. As a side note, military surplus gas masks are not expensive and they could come in very handy. As another note, if there is an upside to this…I can point out two; 1) home invaders employing tear gas will not expect anyone inside to be prepared for it with a gas mask, you will catch them by surprise, 2) as they enter they will be wearing masks and their range of vision will be reduced by the mask. They will have to turn their heads to scan the area for threats…you will not, you simply have to stay focused on the cone of death and pumping a lot of lead into it.

Here are some interesting thoughts –

  • Turn it around on them…if you have access to any kind of mace, tear gas, or other irritant that the canister can be locked open and dispensed you might want to consider employing it. When you expect that they are just about to breach put your mask on, deploy your device at them, and allow them to walk in to the enclosed area without masks. You instantly will have the upper hand.
  • If you are in serious grid-down environment and you are truly expecting the real possibility of criminal home invaders that might deploy in teams there are a couple additional steps you might consider –
    1. Place a door stop in the floor so the door will only bust open about 12″ and then stop opening. This will truly screw with the home invaders. And it will severely narrow the cone of death making it even more deadly.
    2. Be able to place a trip hazard about 40” inside the door you are trying to secure. If the door is breached completely open and they come running in there is a high likelihood that they might trip over the 2”x12” board placed on its end and secured to it isn’t easily kicked over. Most people don’t step 12″ in height when they walk…they trip!
    3. Place furniture to keep the home invaders in the cone of death for as long as possible. This reduces the ability of them to spread out by turning left and right as they come through the door. The longer they stay inside that cone the higher the likelihood of you being able to shoot them. You can concentrate your fire in a very limited area making your shots very effective. Create a funnel or tunnel with your furniture to keep them in a limited space.
    4. If you really want to go all the way…use sandbags or equivalent. Build you a little firing pit wherein you can place yourself. The protection will reduce the chances of you being shot as they come through the door. Place it where you can shoot directly at and through the doorway. Make the pit tall enough that you can lie down behind the protection and easily see your surroundings.
    5. Make sure you have plenty of loaded magazines to easily swap out, and be proficient at swapping  mags under pressure. That means practice it, especially in the dark.
    6. Anything you can do to disorient the home invaders the better it is for you. Focus extremely bright lights at the door itself. Use flashing lights (strobe lights) placed in different locations that face the door that will give the impression that there are more than one of you.
    7. Play really nasty hard metal rock as loud as you can to reduce their ability to communicate, and it will help disorient them.
    8. Slathering a whole bunch of oil or axle grease on the floor, especially with BB’s or marbles rolling around to reduce their footing might help as well.
Summary –

Decide if you are willing to defend your castle and the people you are responsible for. Make a plan. Practice the plan…especially your shooting under pressure skills. Once your have assessed the need (i.e the grid has gone down) implement your plan…don’t delay!!

Once it has started…don’t give up. Keep pulling the trigger…never stop! If the bad guys win, your family loses. That is not an option.


Articles in this Series –
Related Articles –
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House Security : Strengthen your door… (Part #2)

In the last article in this series I talked about more common ways to strengthen your front door. In this article I will share some hardcore ideas on how to barricade your door to hinder even the most committed home invaders.

If you haven’t read the first article yet, you probably should. It appeared on 8/21/2019 <click here to read>.

Picking up where we left off in the last article…

Step #3 –

So have I have touched on steps you can take in regular day-to-day living to protect your home from unlawful entry. Now, let’s talk about during more dire times such as serious grid-down (a.k.a. TEOTWAWKI). This is when you really, really want to keep the bad guys out and you are willing to take more active steps to do so. Here are some suggestions…

  • You can do it yourself or buy existing products to “bar the door” from being breached. Essentially you would place two cross bars across the door and secured to the door frame. This reinforces the integrity of the door from being forced open. If your door only has three hinges you would place the bars halfway between the hinges, running horizontally. The bar must be nothing less than a 2” x 4” board, the larger the better. The best would be a metal bar. The brackets must also be heavy duty and very securely attached to the door frame and wall studs. Four brackets would be far better than two that were simply screwed into the door frame.baring teh door to prevent home invasionThe hinges and lockset are securing the door. The bars secure the weak areas between the hinges and lockset. Even if the hinges and lockset are blown off, the door stays intact due to the bars.
  • A good way to strengthen the bar system mentioned above would be to use a 2” x 4” to brace up against the bar at a 45degree angle and anchored to the floor. Bracing both bars would produce a formidable door to breach.

baring the door to prevent home invasion

  • In my opinion here is how you really, really keep the bad guys out. Remember, they are trying to gain access by breaching the door to the point where they can get through the opening and make entry into your house. If we keep the opening so small that they can’t squeeze through, then we have bought a whole lot more time to muster a proper response to bad guys invading your castle.
  • Here is yet another way to secure a door.

HomeInvasion-203So far I have shared suggestions on keeping your door closed and secured as long as possible. But, regardless of your best efforts a determined committed criminal will open that door eventually. So, I suggest this handy-dandy idea to really thwart and control the access…

  • Buy a 4’ x 8’ sheet of ¾” plywood.
  • Buy a pick-up truck cargo tie-down net.
  • Buy 10 – 15 “eye” hooks or bolts. Must be long enough to securely fasten into the door frame studs.
  • Most people won’t want to install them ahead of time…so, when the time is right screw the eye-hook/bolts every 12” around your door. Make sure they go all of the way into the frame studs not just the door frame.
  • Attached the pick-up truck cargo net to one set of eye-hooks on one side of the door.
  • Place plywood sheet covering the door.
  • Hook the rest of the cargo net to the remaining hooks, making sure that the cargo net is fairly snug holding the plywood against the door.
  • When the door is finally breached the intruder will still not be able to make entry. The breached door will simply slam against the sheet of plywood which is held in place by the cargo net. Now the invader has to start all over trying to breach yet another obstacle. Since most home invaders will not be expecting this obstacle, nor trained to defeat it, you have just bought yourself more time to deal with the problem…or flee.
Truck Cargo Net to secure front foorHomeInvasion-205HomeInvasion-206Step # 4 –

Remember, I said that a determined and committed criminal will breach your door at some point, especially if they are trained in door breaching techniques. The whole point is to create a delaying tactic to buy yourself time to implement your door breach defensive protocol. So what is your protocol?

Just a note as to the situation I will now write about…I am considering the situation to be the most dire of grid-down, where lawlessness is the norm, and assistance from law enforcement isn’t coming.

I maintain that there is only two realistic options in this situation, 1) fight, or 2) flight.

How do you determine which is best for your situation?

Flight –

I don’t think there is any easy or simple answer to that question, it will depend entirely on your specific situation. If you happen to have Chuck Norris staying the night for a pajama party, then you are in really good shape…fight! However, you may not be in a situation where you have the training or can’t risk the loss of life or even injury. That being the case, flight might be your only option…if it isn’t too late.

Doing nothing, not fighting or escaping, is a certain way to become a victim of whatever the bad guys have in mind.

If the bad guys are trying to get in the front door, and you have decided to take flight, you want to exit the house through the least expected way. You want to do so safely and head to a designated place of safety as well. This takes planning. It may be out a back door, a side door, or one or more windows. Whatever the plan is…don’t delay, execute it! The longer you delay the more likely the bad guys will move to counter your plan.

A good plan will leave one tactical person in the house to guard the family members waiting to exit the house. Another tactical person would have been the first person to exit the house and to secure the exterior for family members to safely exit. They will maintain that security responsibility until relieved or until everyone is safely out of the house. Then everyone moves quickly to the place of safety that has been designated. It is imperative that security be maintained to both the front and rear of the group that is moving.

Before actually entering the place of safety, the lead security person should observe the area for at least 10 – 15 minutes before the group enters the area. Even then, the lead security person enters the area by themselves to verify that it is safe before the rest of the group moves in. The rest of the group will hold up a reasonable distance away until they receive the “all clear” signal that it is safe.

Now, if that all goes according to plan and everyone is safe…what is the next step in the plan? Yup, you better have a “next step” in this plan…otherwise you exchange one unsafe place for another equally unsafe place.

2009 - 2019 Copyright © AHTrimble.com ~ All rights reserved
No reproduction or other use of this content 
without expressed written permission from AHTrimble.com
See Content Use Policy for more information.