Best Hearing Protection Earmuffs !

So here’s the deal…I have bad hearing. Yup, too many years running around in a fire truck with the windows rolled down, electronic siren blaring, and the Federal siren wailing away. All that noise finally took its toll and left me with bad hearing, not too bad, but bad enough. And to top it off…tinnitus.

When I go to the range or just out to the desert to go shooting I want good ear protection, or rather, good hearing protection. I tried the standard ear muffs and wasn’t really impressed. Sure, they kept the damaging sound out but left big globs of plastic on my ears that made it hard to get a good sight picture since I was wearing eye protection as well. Additionally, I had to take off one side to hear what anyone else was saying.

Then one day I was talking to a buddy and he told me about the Howard Leight Impact Sound earmuffs. Whoa! That changed my life.

I could go on and on about their benefits trying to convince you on a scientific level just how good they are. But, let me save the time…these things are perfect…wonderful…life-changing!

Technical info directly from their website –HowardLeightImpactSport1

  • Sleek, extremely low profile earcup design allows for full clearance of firearm stock
  • Automatic 4 hour shut-off increases battery life
  • AUX jack connects to MP3 players and scanners
  • Automatically shuts off loud impulse noise to a safe 82dB while amplifying conversation and range commands
  • Convenient folding design for easy storage
  • One single power and volume control knob
  • Air Flow Control technology
  • Black leatherette headband with sporty hunter green earcups
  • Water resistant
  • Easy access to the external battery compartment

Yes, that means you can turn up the sound (amplification of ambient sounds) to hear what is going on around you…and I mean everything such as birds chirping and grass growing. And when a gun is fired the electronics kick in and protect your ears from the harmful sound level. You are protected at anything over 82dB!

I’ve worn these for 10 hour days at the firing range, in the desert, in 90 – 100 degree weather. They are comfortable…period…double period.

If you forget to shut them off when you are done they will automatically turn off after 4-hours. The battery life is amazing! I’ve gone over a year of use on one set of Duracell AA batteries.

I’ve heard some complaints about them not doing very well at indoor ranges. I can’t verify that because I never go to an indoor range. I know outdoors they work really, really well. Also, there are a few people (out of thousands) that have said they couldn’t get them to fit exactly right around their ears. I wear them, my wife wears them, my best friend wears them, and a number of my instructor buddies wear them. I’ve never heard a single complaint about the fit not being right.

These are a for sure “BUY!!!”

Buy It !

 

 

 

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ESEE-6 Knife by Rowan

ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knifenote: first appeared in early 2015

I have always loved knives. The fascination began when I was in Scouting and I learned how to safely handle and use a knife in the outdoors. The love affair began when I was in the navy and we had to have a quality knife for our work on deck; our life could well depend on it. My knife of choice then was a folding Buck knife; I think it was a Buck 110 Hunter. But times change and so do needs.  Hence, the knife of choice changed as well.

What I was looking for as I began my search for a knife:

• A dependable survival knife that could be used tactically if needed.
• Very high quality knife that you could bet your life on and win.
• High carbon steel, not stainless steel.
• Easy to sharpen and holds an edge well.
• Sturdy enough to chop on a 3” tree or handy enough sharpen a spear tip.
• Skin an animal or cut through bone.
• A virtually indestructible handle that could be replaced if needed.
• A full tang blade with a handle end (pummel) that could be used as a hammer.
• Partial serration to assist with cutting through thick items.
• A company that offers an “unconditional warranty”.

I researched a whole lot of survival websites and some military related websites. I asked a knife collecting buddy, a hunter buddy, and a survival expert buddy what they thought. As I boiled down my search the name RAT, designed by Jeff Randall and sold by Rat Cutlery, kept rising to the surface. The second knife that got good press was a RAT knife by Ontario Cutlery; also designed by Jeff Randall.

As I read about the issues between RAT Cutlery & Ontario I quickly realized that RAT Cutlery was the better choice as a company.  Also the RAT knife by Rat Cutlery was the superior quality knife to the one offered by Ontario. One problem, there is no Rat Cutlery any more. Thankfully they just changed their name; it is now ESEE. The name change had to do with the business issues between Rat Cutlery and Ontario Cutlery.

Just to clarify the RAT stands for Randall’s Adventure and Training. Jeff Randall is pretty well known trainer/instructor for jungle survival. He even trains Special Forces, foreign and domestic. The manufacturing is done by Rowan Manufacturing located in Idaho Falls, Idaho.ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knife

Back to the knife…Technical specifications of my ESEE-6:

• Overall length: 11.75″
• Cutting Edge Length: 5.75″
• Blade length (end of handle to tip of blade): 6.5″
• Blade Width: 1.56″
• Weight (knife only): 11.8 ounces
• Maximum thickness: .188″
• Drop point blade style, full flat grind
• Available in plain or partially serrated edge
• 1095 Carbon Steel, 57 Rc.
• Removable lined Micarta handle slabs
• Rounded Pommel w/ lanyard hole

Why did I want a knife so large (6”)?  Well, I would have preferred a 4” blade but I bought that size for my wife. Since we are a team I figured we could use a knife that was a bit longer for larger heavier work; so the 6” fit that bill quite nicely. That would give us two solid sizes to cover most survival situational needs.

I ordered my knife (and my wife’s) on a Saturday and it arrived on Thursday straight from eseeknives.com. My first impression was speedy handling and shipping. When I took it out of the box and then out of the plastic wrapper and sheath I wasn’t disappointed. “Solid quality” was my initial impression when I grasped the handle. It just felt very good in my hand, a natural fit. The more I looked at this knife the more I liked it and the better it felt. That led to confidence in it without even having tried it on anything.

ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knifeAs any man would do – I then touched the sharpened blade edge. Yes, it was very sharp right out of the box. No, I didn’t need stitches, an ambulance, or even a band aid. As I looked over the blade I appreciated the textured powder coating that is flat black in color. I am not a “shinny” blade kind of guy; reflections and such are not my cup of tea. The powder coating is applied in such a manner that it resists corrosion and chipping more than the normal powder coating process. And, it is a smooth texture coating, not rough.

I wasn’t crazy about the sheath at first. It is plastic and feels cheap. There was no inherent way to attach the sheath to anything. However I was willing to give them the benefit of the doubt. I read the instructions and tried various options for carrying. When all was said and done I am still not crazy about the sheath but not for the obvious reason of it being made out of plastic.ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knife

The primary drawback to the sheath is its complete inability to attach to MOLLE gear.  Even with the MOLLE locks that are supplied with the knife & sheath it’s still a pain. I will have to find an alternative. But I would not return the knife or cancel a purchase based on the sheath. I tried a number of carry options with the knife and overall I am impressed and pleased with the earlier exception with MOLLE gear. The following pictures show different options that do work.

The sheath is a friction retention system. There is no other way to secure the knife in the sheath other than the friction retention system. This is my first real exposure to this retention system and I was not real crazy about it initially and I am not sure I am sold on it now. But I do find it convenient and no telltale “snap” sound when undoing a conventional retention system, or “tear” sound when undoing a Velcro closure. I feel that it’s a $1 sheath holding a $100 knife, just not right.

ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knifeThe sheath and lanyard does give a couple basic carry options; the standard vertical carry and the horizontal carry. For those of you that might not recognize a horizontal carry it is sometimes used to carry the knife in the small of the back mounted with the knife handle in the direction of your strong side (i.e. if you are right handed the handle is to the right of your ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knifeback).  I was surprised at how well the knife stayed in place while mounted in either position. But, we will see how it holds up to field testing for a good carry system.

ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knifeI am always thinking about “worst case scenario”. So naturally I tried out the sheath to see how I could add some other functionality to it. I ended up adding 12’ of 550 paracord to the sheath rather easily. Had I taken the time to do a proper wrap I probably could have gotten 15’ or so on it. You never know when you might need 550 paracord. I love the stuff. I also used the desert camo pattern 550 paracord and it did a great job of breaking up the stark outline and color of the sheath.

Overall – I am very pleased with my new knife, it is solid, well styled, and an impressive design. So far I am glad that I spent the money for a high end knife.  I will test it out camping and finish the review.

2 – weeks later:  OK, we spent the weekend up on the Gila National Forest, right on the edge of the wilderness area. We tried a bunch of our gear out, including our new ESEE knives. I tried to figure out the wording for conveying exactly how I feel about my 6″ ESEE.

So I summed it up with one word…WOW !

The knife did everything I asked it to do and then way more. Let’s see – I used it to split 2″ x 6″ wood (using a piece of wood like a mallet on the blade to drive it through the 2×6), I used it to shave very fine slivers of wood, I used it to cut meat, to saw with and to chop with. It performed better than any knife I have ever owned. I did not use it to skin anything on this trip. I would probably use DW’s ESEE-4 for that task.

The knife felt right at home in my hand, comfortable grip, solid, and hefty enough to do tactical work I am sure.ESEE-6 Rowan Randall knife

Just to push the envelope a bit I pried apart 2 pieces of wood that had been nailed together. I used a twisting motion on the blade between the wood.  No problems, very solid, no strain on the blade tip. Then one more interesting note, while splitting some wood I brought with us I accidentally went through a finishing nail. The knife went right on through like it wasn’t even there. The knife is very easy to sharpen and holds an edge extremely well.

This ESEE knife is a sure winner ! ! !

Randall ESEE-6 knife

 

 

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See Content Use Policy for more information.

TIP: Slip 2000 EWL

I have always wanted to have the best gear and products for my weapons. Why? Because my family’s lives may depend on that weapon one day and I want it to function flawlessly. No, I might not perform “flawlessly” as the operator, but time will tell. What I want to do is reduce the probability of my equipment/gear failing. And that is why I am telling you about Slip 2000 EWL.

I can’t say I invented it or discovered it. I did however watch a video referencing it on the Internet so it must be true🙂

Pat Rogers at BCM says, "Run it hard, put it away wet."

Pat Rogers at BCM says, “Run it hard, put it away wet.”

The video showed an old crusty military veteran talking about M4’s and AR-15’s. He was talking about it is more important to keep your AR/M4 “wet” than clean. Yup, he showed his dirty, nasty bolt carrier group. And I am telling you it was dirty. But he simply would wipe it off, lube it with Slip 2000 EWL and it would run out just fine.

I put it to the test and it worked the same for me. I was especially concerned about it having a problem here in the desert southwest with all of our sand. But it was no problem whatsoever. Turns out that Slip 2000 EWL is made from synthetic liquid lubricant not petroleum products, so it doesn’t attract or hold dirt and sand.

I love the stuff! It works great and had improved the reliability of my semi-auto weapons.

From their website –

Keep it wet! This is after 15,000+ rounds

Keep it wet! This is after 15,000+ rounds

Lubrication
Slip 2000 EWL has incorporated advanced technology additives to enhance film strength and anti-wear properties. Penetrating the pores and bonding its self to the surface of the metal through physical absorption reducing surface tension thereby reducing friction between moving parts and minimizing wear and the build-up of wear related debris.

Slip 2000 EWL will not dry out or attract dust or dirt particles like petroleum products. Even when surface is wiped dry to the touch Slip 2000 EWL is still present and lubricating the metal parts from within the pores of the weapon. This product does not require a liquid carrier to be present for protection. Slip 2000 EWL does not evaporate off because there are no carriers needed for continued protection.

Cleaning
Slip 2000 EWL provides additional protection through additives that in addition to the ability to penetrate between metal surfaces, it will also aid in the effective removal of built up dirt, lead, copper, carbon, corrosion particles and firing residues that can buildup and become abrasive to both recoil and gas operated mechanisms.

Preservation
After cleaning, a micro thin film of our enhanced preservative immediately bonds itself and forms a barrier film on the surface that displaces water and provides a corrosion resistant barrier against rust and dirt. It is designed to give protection against hydrogen sulfide (H2S), mild mineral acids, carbon dioxide (CO2), saltwater and brackish environments, musky water, chlorine and similar adverse environments and has passed the Salt Spray Corrosion (ASTM B-117) 150 Hour test. Additionally a barrier of protection is formed to protect against all other fouling of lead, carbon, copper and plastic wad.”

 

 

 

 

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Gerber Guardian 05803 Knife

The deadly, and small, tactical knife.

In one of my previous articles about choosing the best fixed blade tactical, or self-defense, knife I talked about the CKRT Hissatsu knife being an excellent choice. It is an all-round good combat and an awesome fighting knife. However, in that article I also mentioned its one drawback – size.

But, its size (a bit lengthy) is only a drawback in relation to civilian carry vs. combat carry. In combat carry it will be attached to my Knife - Gerber - Guardian 05803 Reviewtactical vest ready to be used when called upon. I don’t care who sees it.

However, in the civilian world the presence of such a obvious use knife could bring you unwanted attention, namely from Johnny Law. The size of the CRKT Hissatsu just makes it a bit to cumbersome for civilian carry. That is how my quest for the right EDC (Every Day Carry) knife came into being.

The Gerber Guardian knife is an amazing beauty. I have several Gerber knives and I like one of their multi-tools as well. Before I get too far into the this article let me cover the specifications of the knife:

  • Overall Length: 7.28″Knife - Gerber - Guardian 05803 Review
  • Length of Blade: 3.41″
  • Weight: 3 oz.
  • Blade Material: 400 Stainless
  • Handle Material: Glass-filled nylon with Softgrip Inserts
  • Blade Style: Spear
  • Sheath Material: Molded Plastic
  • Blade Type: Fine

Additional knife information –

The Guardian is a dagger style knife designed for carrying on your belt, boot, or strap. A non-reflective black coating covers the full tang stainless steel blade giving it a stealthy appearance. The handle is comfortable with a nice grip thanks to the Santoprene nylon covering. The sheath is full adjustable allowing you to set the draw tension for removing the knife. Some may want the Gerber Guardian to have a loose draw while others may want a more stiff draw.

Now for my opinion:

  1. The knife feels really nice in my hand. The handle is well-made, non-slip grip. It doesn’t get slippery when coated with fluids
  2. The knife is well-balanced and handles well while going through movements.
  3. I like the very sharp edge. It will cut along both edges piercing. Moving the blade around will create a substantial wound channel. If you are off a little from hitting a tendon, ligament or artery, the double edge is forgiving.
  4. The knife is very compact and easily concealed.
  5. The sheath is decently made and holds the knife securely.

The one modification I made was sharpening the second, or opposing, edge. Out of the box there was some edge to it but not really a cutting edge. So I went to work on it with my diamond sharpener. I am not completely satisfied with the edge I put on it.

Knife - Gerber Guardian 05803 2-edgeI am going to completely redo the edge when I get my new “Work Sharp” set up and running. Until then I am very satisfied.

This knife is a great knife for self-defense, it is easily concealed and readily deployed. The point is more than sharp enough to do the job. The Gerber Guardian is a knife to go anywhere with.

This knife is an awesome “Buy!

Buy It !

 

 

 

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without expressed written permission from AHTrimble.com
See Content Use Policy for more information.

The Best Bugout Location – How to Pick One

Bug Out time Family - when is it time to bug outnote: first appeared in December 2015

There are a whole lot of articles out on the Internet about bugout retreats, redoubts, locations, cabins, etc. Some authors even give specific locations, some provide maps, some do “rankings” of areas, and most of those people have no idea what they are talking about. Well, at least in my opinion.

Why don’t they know what they are talking about? Because they aren’t you, they aren’t in your situation, and they don’t know your needs. I am going to give you principles to help guide you through the process of choosing which bugout location is best for you to choose.

Why?

Because I feel you are the only person qualified to pick the bugout location for you and your family…or group.

As you well know by now from reading articles on this website that I see seven primary threat/risks that jeopardize you and your family during any emergency, disaster, or grid-down situation. Those same threats and risks apply to your bugout location as well. How you mitigate those risks/threats is what is really important!

Read more about “risk mitigation” < click here >

But, why not just pick one perfect location to begin with?

Ah, hate to tell you this…ain’t no such thing. Yeah, sorry, I just had to burst your bubble. Honestly, I don’t see any location as being “perfect” and here’s why. Every person, family, and situation is different. Your family is different than my family. So our definition of perfect is just as different. And your situation may change once the incident is underway. And you may need to judge different locations on the fly. However, the guiding principles are the same.

The common threats/risks are:Bug Out Bag get out of dodge violence will be main threat risk

  1. Violence
  2. Injury or Sickness
  3. Communications, lack of or poor
  4. Organization, lack of or poor
  5. Dehydration
  6. Exposure
  7. Starvation

So let me briefly review each of those threats/risks in relation to a bugout location:

  1. Violence – There will be violence, you know that. Dealing with that violent is paramount, your #1 priority.
  2. Injury or Sickness – You may well be called upon to deal with broken bones, gunshot wounds, or tooth cavities. Being able to call upon qualified personnel is essential as well as having access to sufficient medical supplies.
  3. Communications, lack of or poor – You must be able to communicate with others. If nothing else, you have to be able to pick-up shortwave radio transmissions to know what is going on beyond your bugout location.
  4. Organization, lack of or poor – You must be organized in the way you go about buying and staffing your bugout location. How will you deal with all the demands of a self-contained mini-society?
  5. Dehydration – Without water you and your family will die within days.
  6. Exposure – Too much sun, too much heat, and too much cold will kill you. Not enough sun, not enough heat and not enough sun may kill you just as surely. You must be able to shelter from the elements.
  7. Starvation – You must be able to produce food. You can’t live off your food storage forever.

Now, let’s break it all down into brief neat little sections that go into the principles in each of the seven threat/risk areas outlined above. And how they apply to your bugout location.

Violence – No location is immune from the threat of violence. No location is remote enough to avoid all potential Grid Down Chaos violence threats and risks during emergencies and disasters riotsviolence. So the location you pick needs to be defensible to protect you and your family from violence. That defense can be accomplished in a variety of ways. One would be to be in a community that is strong, united on taking care of each other, embraces the gun culture, retired veterans, trained folks, etc. And, you can have a location that is easily defended by a small number of folks. You must understand and be able to deploy things like “area deniers” and other defensive measures. Without being able to defend yourself and your family a bugout location is just another place for you to die.

The #1 aspect of being able to defend a location is “a plan”…period. You can have lots of guns, plenty of ammunition, great shooters, and all the latest tacti-cool equipment. But, if you don’t have a solid, realistic, practical plan on what has to happen and who is to do it…you will fail in protecting your family. Develop that plan and train with it. If you don’t feel qualified to develop that plan, there are folks who can. Look for former military veterans who have actual field combat experience. Stay away from security guards, mall cops, and the average police officer; they are mostly clueless in this area but may sound knowledgeable.

Injury or Sickness – Whatever location you choose must have the space and storage environment for you to safely and securely store Sick or injured Person during grid-down bugoutsufficient medical supplies for your needs. Additionally, you must be in a location where there is more advanced medical care available than you and your family can provide. In my little group of camping friends we have a paramedic and two nurses. Sweet! They can handle a whole lot of issues. But what about taking out a spleen? Or how about taking care of a compound fracture of a leg? Then there is the nasty broken tooth. Who will take care of those issues? The closer your bugout location is to more advanced medical facilities or personnel the better off you and your family will be.

What about sickness? Honestly, along with violence, the #1 threat to members of your family is sickness from poor sanitation. You must be able to handle two main issues; 1) sewage, 2) clean hands. Being able to properly handle sewage with a septic tank, outhouse, latrine, etc. is essential. Then making sure people keep their hands clean comes next. That means lots of hand sanitizer and anti-bacterial soap. Along with those two priorities you must add plenty of training in this area, as well as someone willing to nag people day after day after day about the importance of sanitation.

Communications – I cannot stress enough how important communications really is. If your family or group can’t Ham Shack - communication operations communicate you will fail. And in the cases of emergencies, disasters, and especially grid-down…failure could equal fatality. There are two general areas of communications that I will rate as critical; 1) internal, 2) external. You must be able to reliably communicate within your family or group. And you must be able to communicate with the outside world. Otherwise, how do you know what is happening beyond your very small bugout location society? How will you know what is coming? How will you know when it is unsafe? I will tell you that all the great Ham equipment is 100% worthless! Well, that is true if you have no ComPlan. You must have a plan for both internal and external communications. The plan is just as important as the equipment. Well actually, the plan is more important.

There are many forms of communications, such as Ham radios, FRS/GMRS radios, SW radios, CB radio, but there are also notes, flagging, mirror flashes, signs, etc. Establish many ways to communicate. If there was ever truly a case for redundancy, it is with communicating in times of needs. View any potential bugout location in terms of communicating. There is the obvious, “Is there an elevated piece of ground for a radio repeater?” But don’t neglect, “If radio communications is non-operational, how long to get a message to town or the next closest family or group?”

Organization – This is probably the least applicable area to a bugout location. Why? Because your organization ICS for preppers Incident Command Systems Logistics Section support branchshould be the same model (ICS) regardless of location. Granted, you might have to add positions or personnel, but the organizational model should be the same. And yes, I am speaking of ICS (Incident Command System). The bottom line to “organization” is that you must have it! You can’t just bring together a family or group and think that magically everything gets done, coordination takes place, and operations are successful. You must be organized, responsibilities must be assigned, and people must be accountable for getting their assignments accomplished in a safe and timely manner.

People in any potential bugout location must be organized…or willing to organize along the lines of a successful system. And FYI…a military organizational chart will not work in a civilian setting…it has been tried and failed numerous times.

Dehydration – This means water. Water must be available at any potential bugout location. There are a number of ways that Water1can happen such as; river, creek, well, rain catchment, etc. But, you must have a supply of water. And I strongly suggest you have redundancy in this area as well. For example, if you have a well make sure you also have a rain catchment system. Why? Ah, what happens if the well runs dry? So, if you only have a rain catchment system? Well, (no pun intended) I suggest you seek out the closest river or creek, or start digging a well. But what if you have a big ole river? Yeah, rivers run dry too…or are dammed up.

Now, once you have a supply of water with a back-up supply, you will need a way to make it safe to drink. You can filter and purify it, any other option is not practical. You say, “I can always boil it!” Well, theoretically yes you can. But for how long? What I am referring to is…till your fuel runs out; the fuel I am referring to is the fuel it takes to boil your water. Yeah, we could debate this, but trust me, you want a way to filter and purify your water vs. just boiling it.

Water PoolSo, you have a water supply, a back-up water supply, and a Monolithic Ceramic water filtration system. How many replacement filters do you have? Do you have a way to pre-filter the sediment out? Do you have back-up “socks” for the filter? What happens if the spigot breaks? Answer…the filters and parts are very inexpensive…buy plenty of them and store them securely!

Note: When talking about a rain catchment system I am speaking of not just the capability to catch rain, but the ability to store a minimum of 3 months of water, preferably 6 – 12, along with just catching it.

Exposure – This simply means that your bugout location must be able to provide sufficient shelter to keep you BugOut Cabin bug-outalive. And yes, it would be nice if it kept you comfortable as well, but that is secondary. You can have a full-blown retreat cabin, or you can have a tent. Just make sure your shelter is; 1) large enough for everyone, 2) sturdy enough to handle the elements for years, 3) you have a skills, tools, and materials to make basic repairs to it, 4) you have some sort of back-up plan.

If your cabin burns down, do you have a tent to live in while you rebuild? If you have a tent, do you have the tools to build a rudimentary cabin or reinforce your tent?

Starvation – Your bugout location must be able to provide multiple food sources. One “source” must be the ability healthy people working in the gardento grow food such as vegetables. Fruit would be a great addition. You can use above ground garden boxes or conventional gardens, but you must be able to grow food. The other “sources” would be things such as wild game in the area. Yes, deer and elk would be nice, but are there squirrels, rats, and ground hogs, etc.? And please…don’t go killing everything the first year. Be reasonable and leave enough of each species to reproduce.

A side note of caution concerning hunting – protecting your hunting area. There are only so many animals in any give area. If you are going to use that area to hunt in, who is to say someone else doesn’t have the same idea. If you are going to count on hunting as a primary source of food you are; 1) foolish, 2) probably going to get into a firefight with someone else that has the same idea. Neither is a good option.

There is also the option of domesticated food animals. Stay away from large animals such as cattle, they eat a lot, require a lot of attention, and draw attention. Pigs are one idea because they produce a lot of off-spring but require a lot of attention and can be very destructive. Chickens, rabbits, and other small animals are probably a better bet.

Summary –

You might be wondering how in the heck are you supposed to buy a bugout location that excels in, or at least is marginally acceptable in, all of these areas? You might even be wondering how in the world to rate multiple bugout locations against these criteria and against each other. The second question is much easier to answer.

  • Violence (worth 20 points) 1 = no provision at all, 10 = moderate ability to defend, 20 = no one is getting near us
  • Injury or Sickness (worth 20 points) 1 = no medical facilities or personnel within 75 miles, 20 = medical facilities or personnel within 10 miles, 20 = within 5 miles of doctor and/or medical facility
  • Communications, lack of or poor (worth 10 points) 1 = very limited communications capability, 5 = repeater hill and within mirror flash of neighbors, 10 = hardwired communications with neighbors, etc.
  • Organization, lack of or poor (worth 10 points) 1 = we have a loose organizational structure, 3 = we have our own organizational structure, 7 = we use ICS, 10 = we use ICS and are trained in using it
  • Dehydration (worth 15 points) -20 = no current water capacity, 5 = only rain water catchment system, 10 = well/river/creek, 15 = well/river/creek and rain catchment system (or any two dependable sources of water)
  • Exposure (worth 10 points) -10 = no shelter and no tent, 4 = tent only, 8 = cabin, 10 = cabin and tent
  • Starvation (worth 15 points) -5 = no ability to grow food, 5 = above ground garden boxes, 10 = established garden plots, 14 = fenced established garden spots with small animal raising capability, 15 = fenced established garden spots with small animal raising capability and at least 1280 acres of exclusive hunting land

Now, take the rating system above and personalize it if you wish. You can add in some other features and benefits between the rating numbers I already put on the scale for you. Example: Dehydration –

-20 = no current water capacityRating System
3 = rain water catchment system and 3 months storage capability
4 = rain water catchment system and 6 months storage capability
5 = only rain water catchment system with 12 months storage capability
6 = seasonal river/creek with 6 months of storage capacity
7 = seasonal river/creek with 12 months of storage capacity
8 = well/river/creek, well has a AC pump with propane generator
10 = well/river/creek, well has a solar pump with 6 months of storage capacity
15 = well/river/creek and rain catchment system, well has a solar pump with 12 months of storage capacity

I will leave it up to you on how to enhance the rating system. But, when you are done looking over and rating a potential bugout location add all the points together you will get a relative score vs. 100 points. Choose the best location Multiple Bugout Locationsbased on its point score. Or, better yet, rank each potential bugout location based on points and have redundant bugout plans based on the ratings of each potential location.

Multiple bugout locations? Doesn’t that get expensive?

Whoever said you have to buy a bugout location?

In times of emergencies and disasters I doubt many people would object enough to a family or small group using a public or national campsite, park, etc. There is a lot US Forest Service and BLM land out there. And in times of grid-down…well, I don’t think it is as important as who owns it compared to who occupies it…and their ability to defend it. But, I don’t want to detract from the basis of this article. I will let your ability to be creative guide you.

You now have a rock solid method to identify the best bugout locations. Go do it!

 

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Which Baofeng Radio should I buy??????

Baofeng UV-5r handheld radio


So which radio is right for you…or which radio should you buy?

Well, first thing to do is make sure you have read my reviews on each of the following radios…

I will go through this as if I were doing it for the first time…for myself. You see, we are all different, we all have different situations, needs, issues, missions, restrictions, etc. I can only speak for myself. But, I think going through it will help you, guide you, through the process of figuring it out for yourself.

Background –

Baofeng radios are really the only cost effective and reliable radios that are available. Yup, my opinion. True, Yaesu radios are wonderful! And if you can afford a cache of them and their accessories…great! I can’t. So Yaesu radios are out of the question. Baofeng radios are cost effective, reliable, plenty of accessories, easy to program with software, and flat out…they get the job done.

Assessment –

First thing I would do is figure out exactly what I want to use them for…their mission. For me I want to use them for daily tasks, emergencies, disasters, any security/protection work in my future, and especially for grid-down.

So the radio must be very flexible in its frequency range and ease of use. It also has to be compatible with most public emergency services entities. I run my own repeater so I don’t have a need for a long-range handheld. I have plenty of batteries and recharging capabilities on hand so I am not worried about power consumption.

They need to be tough enough but not military grade. I also need enough of them for let’s say 4 – 8 people to have one. I don’t use, nor intend to use, the 1.25m band. It is a relatively obscure band and not one in general use.

Choices and Why’s –

So here we go…

  • UV-5RA:
    • If I had a limited budget for radios and accessories
    • If I needed a large number of radios (4 or more)
  • UV-5RMHP
    • Out of the running since they are not available retail.
  • BF-F8HP
    • Only if I had a very specific identifiable need for more power for transmission and no worries about ComSec.
  • UV-5X3
    • Only if I had a very specific need for using the 1.25m band.
  • Yaesu FT-60R
    • No budget limitations of any kind.
    • No need for GMRS, FRS, or MURS frequencies.
Summary –

Sorry, I imagine this was a very anti-climatic article for most of you. But, it turned out that it was easy for me to figure out which radio is best for me. The Boafeng UV-5RA is it…hands down. One possible exception. If I had all the hand held radios I needed (UV-5RA), all the accessories that I needed for all of those radios, and I had no mobile radio…I might buy the BF-F8HP just to have the extra wattage available. But, it would not be a field-going radio…it would stay in the ComShack.

If I was starting out from scratch, had no existing radios, I would look that the BF-F8HP as the standard…but only if I was 95% sure that there would be no ComSec issues…and I could buy enough radios, primary and back-ups, PLUS all of the right accessories to cover my needs within my budget.

Anything else…you better post a reply and ask a question…or use the contact form.

And I bet…this could open up a discussion similar to AR vs AK or Sig vs Glock. But hey…bring it on 😉


← Back

Thank you for your response. ✨





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Bug-Out or Bug-In ?

Bug Out Bug In when SHTF or grid-downnote: first appeared in December 2015

I am not crazy about the terms, but they are recognized in the “prepper” community so I will use them here a well. Actually I am OK with “bug-out” but I like “shelter in-place” a little more than “bug-in.” But you will get the information here no matter which term is used. So let me describe to you what I feel is the correct definition of “bug-out.”

 

Bug-Out –

An act of leaving your current location during an emergency.

Shelter In-Place –

An act of staying in your current location during an emergency.

Background –

Both acts are driven by a concern for safety. In the first option you are thinking that the current location is not safe. You may or may not think a destination is safe, but you know that your current location is not safe, and/or it is not going to be safe at some future time. Conversely, with the latter option you feel you are generally safer in your current location than at some other potential location or the on the trip to get to another location.

So which is the best option during disasters, emergencies and especially in “grid-down” situations?

Great question! Tough answer. And it is all dependent on the situation itself. But let me share a few guidelines and thoughts with you that might help you think through your decision process.

Making the Distinction –

First thing I ask people is where are your prep items? Items such as food, water, weapons, ammo, and all that other gear Food Storage - bug out bug in - why do you want to leave all that stuff?and equipment. Undoubtedly they answer that it is all somewhere in their house, on their property, in the garage or shed, etc. Great! The follow-up question is almost insulting in nature, “Why would you want to leave all that great stuff?” That usually gets me a blank stare or a look of disillusionment.

But it is a serious, maybe the most serious, question to ask yourself.

Doing It –

You spent a lot of money, a tremendous amount of time, and untold frustration acquiring a great set of preparations for you and your family to weather out the storm. Now you are actually considering leaving it all, or most of it, behind? Or do you plan on taking it all with you? Unless you own a large moving truck please don’t try and convince me that you can take it all with you. You can’t.

I did a little experiment a number of years ago that helped open my eyes a whole lot. I decided I would make a plan to bug-out and I wanted to take as much stuff as I possibly could. It was hilarious to say the least. I checked and validated the Bug out vehicle overloaded with all the gearweight and space of each case of food I had. Then I went and did the same for my guns & ammo. By that time I was already depressed. I had exceeded the weight and space capacity of my 1-ton truck by a large margin. And I hadn’t assessed any camping, cooking, communications, or other survival gear yet. It was bad…very, very bad.

So the first thing I did was stop my idiotic bug-out planning. I developed a brand new food storage methodology <click here to read more>, then rearranged my guns & ammo, developed my communications gear storage plan, and began working on redoing my whole storage concept on all my other gear. I will share all of that in the near future, but for now I just want you to know that I realized, rather clearly, that I would only be able to take a small fraction of my “stuff” , even in our one-ton truck.

Oh, I gotta tell you that there was one intermediate step, I started upgrading my plan using my wife’s Explorer in the mix. Yeah, I am an idiot! Twice the problems with gas, breakdowns, security, etc. I only went down that rabbit hole for a couple hours before I abandoned that dumb decision.

So back to bugging-out. For the most part, in most situations it will make absolutely no sense at all to bug-out; nada, zip, zero, none. But you better have a bug-out plan anyways. But before we go there let me explain my no bug-out thought.

Bugging - In Bugg-in bug-in shelter in place shelter-in-placeSo you have all this wonderful gear, lots of food, water, communications gear, blankets, sleeping bags, roof, windows, doors, and AC & Heat as long as the power stays on. Yeah! Now I am talking…great way to live through an apocalypse!

No, seriously, all your stuff is in your house, or at least on your property, why in the world would you want to take a small fraction of it and load it into a vehicle and drive away? Or worse yet, load a tiny, tiny fraction of it into a GOOD BOB and walk away?

So my first thought is to really reinforce your home and make it your “shelter-in-place” castle. But there may come a time when you must bug-out. What would drive you to do that?

Safety, pure and simple. Conditions would get so bad that it was safer to leave your home than stay in it. But you better have a plan to do so…and a couple alternatives.

But let’s talk for a minute about what would possibly be so bad that it would drive you from your home. Try the following:

  1. Imminent attack by a large mob and no neighborhood defense force, or no mutual fire support with your neighbors.
  2. Hazardous substance headed towards your house that could cause death or injury. This would be something like chlorine gas.
  3. Unstoppable and indefensible fire spreading towards your house.
  4. House-to-house looting or rounding up of citizens and lacking defenses mentioned in #1.

I am sure there are more that you can come up with but these are the top four in my mind. What I would suggest is that you identify “trigger points” for each scenario. In other words, define the threat severity and relationship to your home that would trigger you taking your family away from your home. Doing this simple exercise will help you when the stress is high and you aren’t thinking clearly. Just follow the plan. And yes, you must always remain flexible and adaptable to the changing conditions around you. But this is a good starting point to get your mind in the game.

Bug-out destination bug out destinationOf course you need a destination. And exactly where you go depends on what is near you. But there are two major categories of destinations, interim and final. The final destination is the one that you can plan for the most, the interim will present the most dangers and obstacles.

Let me briefly address the “interim” destination(s). Yes, you might have more than one; possible many more. But this is a location that is probably better known as a “stop-over” or “lay-over” location. This is simply a location where you will stop along the way to your final destination for some amount of time. You may only stay overnight, or maybe for days at a time. Ultimately there will be only one major guideline as to how long you stay – safety. Is it safe for you and your family or group to continue moving to your final destination will be your guiding principle.

So what makes a good interim location? I would suggest the following:

  1. Low-profile, well-hidden.
  2. Water is available.
  3. Little likelihood of other occupants.
  4. Can be safely observed from a distance before you enter.
  5. Access can be controlled.
  6. Defensible.

I would suggest looking for interim locations that are about 50 miles apart all along your route. This is of course assuming you are driving. If you must walk then you have to look at interim location about every 10 – 15 miles. Why so low for driving interim locations? You simply don’t know how far you will be able to travel in any given day. Some days you might go 700 miles, other days you may only go 7 due to roadblocks, weather, roadbed condition, vehicle condition, bad guys, etc. Better to have too many interim locations scouted then not enough.

You will want to employ basic security tactics when approaching an interim location to ensure no one is already there. And then those same tactics will hopefully keep you safe while you are there. Remember, to let your guard down for one minute is to invite disaster for you and your family. Generally speaking…observe the potential location for a minimum of 30 minutes before approaching…and hour is better. Only have 1 – 2 people approach. Keep a reserve and blocking security team in-place ready to respond.

Moving on to your final destination. As you should already know if you have been reading my articles or books, I advocate small community survival destination, not single person, single family, or even small groups for ultimate survival. You simply have to have enough people around you to provide skills that you and your group don’t have. Example: Doctor, gunsmith, electrical engineer, car mechanic, etc.

cabin in rural location for bug-out bug out location destinationBased on that I would suggest considering these options:

  • Your cabin or vacation home in a small, rural, potentially self-sustaining community.
  • A relative’s home, cabin or vacation home in a small, rural, potentially self-sustaining community.
  • A friend’s home, cabin or vacation home in a small, rural, potentially self-sustaining community.

Wherever you decide to go, it MUST have a water supply. And I don’t care if you think it is “safe” or not, there has to be a water supply of some kind. Regardless of whether you think it is safe or not, you will filter and purify it no matter what. You simply can’t trust a water supply under these circumstances. But not to worry! You have multiple layers of water filtration and purification. <click here to read more about making water safe to drink>

In the next post in this series I will go over more details on picking the right final destination.

 

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GOOD – BOB (Get Out Of Dodge – Bug Out Bag)

Bug Out Bag, Get Out Of Doge bag, grid-down

Really?

note: first appeared in January 2015

Let me describe what a GOOD or BOB is before I go on. A “GOOD” bag is a Get Out Of Dodge bag. A “BOB” is a Bug Out Bag. Both represent your last chance at survival in a serious disaster or grid-down situation where all you can carry to survive on is contained therein. Yes, that serious.

72-hour kit is not a BugOutBag or get out of dodge bag grid-down

72-Hour Kit

The GOOD BOB is not to be confused with “72-hour Kit” or a GHB (Get Home Bag) by any means.

A 72-hour kit is a far more conventional item that a family would use to evacuate their home with to get by for the 72-hours it would take to get more organized and formal emergency efforts into place. 72-hour kit is for the normal emergency and disaster situation where help will come. A GOOD BOB is more along the end-of-the-world scenario stuff.

In my series “Prepper Myth” I take “myths” that have been talked about by other so-called prepper experts and I give my view on the myth and the author’s response. In a previous post “Prepper Myth #6: BOB’s Need to Last 72 Hours” <click here to read more> I responded to a person holding themselves out to be an expert commenting on bug out bags. Their response was so outrageous that it drove me to write this article on GOOD BOB bags sooner than expected. It amazes me just how much bad information is out there. Bad enough that it will get people killed; probably whole families.

First, as always, let’s describe the “mission” for a GOOD or BOB: ahhhhhhhhh, well, ahhhhhh…..preparedness gear equipment must have clear Mission

Yeah, I can’t quite define it. Can you? Let’s drop back and paint a picture of the situation we might ourselves in that would require a GOOD BOB. Then maybe we can define the mission.

The situation would have to be so bad that staying in your home is no longer an option, leaving your home was the only sensible option. Maybe the only remaining option left to you and your family. Otherwise, why would you want to leave your home? Your home, I assume, is where your preparedness gear, equipment, food, and water capabilities would be stored; or at least the bulk of it. So why in the heck would you want to leave! But for now, play the game with me, you have to leave your home.

Ah, so why a GOOD BOB? What I mean is, “Why not a BOV?” Yeah, I come from a government job so I love acronyms. BOV = Bug Out Vehicle.

Yeah, throw your critical gear and food into your Expedition SUV, your Ford pick-up, or whatever else you might have for a quick getaway. Doesn’t that make sense? But, there may be that 1 in 100,000 chance that you can’t use a vehicle to bug out.

Oh, come on! Yes, I know there is the EMP crowd where the entire grid goes down. Then there is the martial law crowd where no one is allowed on the roads. And other special focus crowds where they maintain that no vehicle traffic will be possible. Yes, I too think it might get to that but it will be a gradual shift to it, not a single catastrophic event…more than the earlier odds that I quoted. So for me I say use the truck vs. a GOOD BOB.

Now, does that mean I don’t have a GOOD BOB? Of course I have a GOOD BOB but for entirely different reasons than most. It is part of my “building block” or “modular” system of prepping. But I look at a GOOD BOB as an TEOTWAWKI option.

Let me explain…

During most disasters and emergencies vehicle transportation is possible, as well as preferable. Yes, there are the inevitable traffic jams. But that is your responsibility to avoid. That means have a plan, multiple routes, and leave early. For my GOOD BOB scenario I assume you already have that covered. Besides I am talking more about a hard “grid-down” situation more than a softer situation such as a disaster or emergency.

So my GOOD BOB is designed for one thing:

Sustain life as long as possible.

Okay, so now you want to know what is in my GOOD BOB bag, right? OK, but we have to realize that what I just stated above was the “mission”; Sustain life as long as possible.

One point I want to clearly state, the mission doesn’t include anything along the lines of getting us from point A to point B. That is a whole other story and outside the scope of the GOOD BOB. And I will cover BOL (Bug Out Location) in another post in the near future.

Let’s review for a minute what I feel you would be facing in a situation where a GOOD BOB would be needed. The risks and threats, in priority order, would be:Bug Out Bag get out of dodge violence will be main threat risk

  1. Violence
  2. Lack of medical care
  3. Dehydration
  4. Exposure
  5. Starvation

Your resulting priorities, in priority order, would be:

  1. Safety
  2. Stabilize the situation (don’t make it worse)
  3. Conserve resources and property (don’t destroy anything you don’t have to)
  4. Normalize your situation as much as possible, as soon as possible

<click here to read more about priority setting>

Now that is over with you can begin to appreciate what a GOOD BOB must be able to do. But that being said, I am going to push you away from a GOOD BOB and towards a EOTWB (End Of The World Box). Why? Because I think that is the best option, the best solution for all potential scenarios.

How so?

Because you don’t know what the exact situation will look like when the time comes, so design a solution to meet all the possibilities to the best extent possible.

Safety is always the number one #1 priority in emergencies disasters and grid-downBased on the priorities I outlined above, the number one priority is safety. And the number one threat to that safety is violence against you and your family. Multiple means of protecting your family is the first thing you have to look at. For that I say guns and knives, plus bullets and sharpening stone. But the #1 way to stay safe from violence: avoid it. So I include items for that as well; and that includes communication equipment.

Next is lack of medical care. So mitigate that problem, you are it; and so are your family members. That means everyone carries a IFAK (Individual First Aid Kit) <read about IFAKs by clicking here>. And that means everyone carries an IFAK, even children. If they can walk more than a block they can carry an IFAK. Then you must have at least one TBAK (Team/Family Basic Aid Kit) <read about TBAKs by clicking here>. I would prefer two kits in your family, maybe one for each parent.

Inside that “safety” group I also put dehydration as well. I do so because it can occur quickly enough to affect you and your family in a matter of hours; for sure within a day.

I am itching to start listing exact pieces of gear and equipment but I didn’t clear up the “box” vs. “bag” decision on my part. Rubbermaid 24-gallon Action Packer Bug Out Box for emergencies, disasters and grid-downWell, it is for convenience sake more than anything, but you can judge for yourself. Remember, I think there is about 1 in 100,000 chance of actually carrying your GOOD BOB; I think a vehicle is not only preferable but also almost assuredly possible. So I put my “stuff” in a Rubbermaid 24-gallon ActionPacker container that has a nice tight lid and handles.

I can walk out to the garage, open the door, grab my box, my wife grabs her box and both go into the truck. I snatch the case of bottled water by the garage door and we drive away. Oopppsss, one step I forgot to mention; I open the gun safe and remove our AR’s and Sign 226’s before doing anything else. But you got the idea. There is no fumbling around for a bag, no gathering anything else, it is all right there.

So what happens if we have to carry all that stuff? Well, a bag is included just folded up nice and neat out of the way. Everything we need to survive is in the box and can be transferred to the bag is needed.

So here goes…

Safety is number one priorty in emergencies disasters and grid-down

 

SAFETY (this is the absolute #1 priority) –

 

Retrieved from the gun safe:

1 x AR-15
1 x Sig P226

Stored in Ziplock bags in the box:

8 x 30-round Magpul magazines
205 x 5.56 rounds (M855)
3 x 18-round Mecgar magazines
55 x 9mm rounds (147gr XTP)

1 x Tac Vest that has –

3 x double mag AR pouches
1 x IFAK
1 x Magazine drop pouch
1 x Tactical light pouch
1 x Radio pouch
1 x Survival pouch

1 x Blackhawk pistol belt that has –

1 x Serpa Level III pistol holster
1 x Double pistol magazine pouch
1 x Hard plastic AR-15 magazine holder

1 x Camelbak, 3-liter, 3-color desert
1 x Boonie hat, multicam

Survival Items – Stored in a single Ziplock bag together. These are the essential survival items that will go with me no matter what. They would be moved to the vest or carried on my person.

BOK (Blow Out Kit) – 1 x CAT tourniquet in pouch & 1 x 4”x6” Field dressing
1 x ESEE 6” fixed blade knife
1 x Spyderco Paramilitary2 knife
1 x Gerber model STL 2.0 (black) knife
1 x SOG Micron knife
1 x NDuR survival straw or LifeStraw
1 x 5-color camo point kit
1 x set of 2-part Aqua Tabs
1 x P-58 can opener
1 x Gerber multi-tool “Suspension” model (22-01471) in pouch
1 x Shemagh (desert color/pattern)
1 x Headlamp, Petzl, Tactika
1 x Gloves, tactical

Communication Items – Stored in a Ziplock together.

1 x Motorola T5500 FRS/GMRS radio
1 x Concealment ear piece with lapel mic
1 x charged “rechargeable” Battery pack
1 x 110vAC charger
1 x 12vDC recharger
1 x pouch
1 x Set of instructions

Stabilize the situation, don’t make it worse –

Misc. Items – Stored together in Ziplock bag.

2 x Set of ear plugs
1 x Pair Safety glasses, clear
1 x Pair Safety glasses, tinted
1 x Box Chlor-Floc water purification (30 packets – 8 gallon capacity)
1 x Compass
1 x Bic lighter
1 x Box stormrpoof matches
2 x Boxes waterproof matches
1 x Write in the Rain pen
1 x Write in the Rain tablet (3”x5”)
1 x Tablet paper (2”x4”)
1 x Spork (Vargo Eagle)

Sanitation/Personal Items – Stored together in a Ziplock bag.

1 x partial roll of toilet paper
8 x Germ-X hand sanitizer packets
3 x Sun-X sunscreen packets
4 x Bug-X insect repellant packets
3 x Shower Pill body towels

1 x Pair pants, A-tacs
1 x T-shirt, long sleve, Marpat
1 x Tactical shirt, 5.11 Tactical Series, multicam
1 x BDU top, multicam
1 x Cap, baseball, brown
1 x Helmet, bump, (PT-B Helmets)
1 x AR-15 vertical fore grip, storage for extra bolt, and integrated tactical light

Cold Weather Items – Stored together in a Ziplock Bag.

1 x Socks, Smartwool
1 x Watch cap, fleece, flat earth brown
1 x long underwear, bottom, Minus 33, Merino wool
1 x long underwear, top, Minus 33, Merino wool
1 x Poncho, Survival Systems OPSEC

Misc. Items – Stored in a Ziplock bag together.

2 x Roles of surveyor flagging
2 x Chemlights
2 x Maxpedition carabineers
1 x Grimloc Molle D-ring
1 x Blanket emergency survival (not Mylar style)
2 x Paracord 550, 30’ length
6 x Snares, small animal, wire

Power Items – Stored in a Ziplock bag together.

1 x SolarAid SolPad7 solar battery charger (AA & AAA)
4 x Batteries, AA, Duracell Quantum
4 x Batteries, AA, Energizer, rechargeable
4 x Batteries, AAA, Duracell
4 x Batteries, AAA, Energizer, rechargeable

9 x Meals, freeze dried, Mountain House
1 x GI canteen cup (stainless steel)
1 x Water filter, MSR Sweetwater (plus extra cartridge)

condor 3-day asault bag pack makes a great Bug Out Bag get out of dodge bag

Condor 3-Day Assault Pack

And lastly the pack – I like the Condor 3-day assault pack. It is large, comfortable, lots of compartments, and can snug down tight. In the pack’s side compartments I keep two stainless steel 1-1/2 liter water bottles. In the pack’s bladder compartment I put another 3-liter Camelbak bladder.

Could I carry all of this in the pack along with a full water load, tac-vest and weapons? Absolutely not! It would be way way too heavy for me. But remember the premise from the beginning – I am not planning on carrying it anywhere, it goes into the truck. Carrying the pack is Plan B.

I think in a coming post I will go into more detail about why I carry the different items, or why I choose a specific item over another. But for now you will get the idea what I consider my EOTWB (End Of The World Box).

stupid Prepper experts will get you killed, well-intentioned but ignorant

Well-intentioned but uniformed.

Now a word of caution, there are a lot of wanna-be prepper experts out there pumping out all kinds of information. Most of it is their personal preference or their viewpoint based on their military experience, their deep-woods survival skills, etc.

Very few folks have actually been in a large number of emergencies and disasters to have any kind of first-hand information and experience. And even fewer experts have training in assessing and analyzing information in the perpper world. I really don’t want you to get caught listening to one, accepting their word as gospel, and then you and your family die because the guy didn’t have a clue.

Yes, I want you to challenge my information and guidance as well. That is why I try to share the principles that should guide you.

You’ve heard the saying “Give a man a fish and you feed him for today. Teach him to fish and you feed him for the rest of his life.” I try to teach you to fish. I want you to understand how to figure things out on your own. I give you information such as my go-box list to get you started, a jump start on making your list.

MissionAccomplishedHowever, my list is probably not your list. So use the principles of LIPS and risk/threat assessment and mitigation to guide you through developing your own list. It is important, vitally important. For one day your family may be 100% dependent on these preparedness actions you’ve taken.

Thank you for sharing this time with me and I hope you have found some value in it. Feel free to send me questions and comments about this article, I would appreciate your feedback.

 

 

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No reproduction or other use of this content 
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4watt vs 5watt vs 8watt Radios

Here is one of those touchy “tech” questions…filled with landmines. But what the heck…let me take a shot at it!

The premise of this article is the debate on handheld radios and how much power should I buy.

And there is no simple answer…but there is an answer…and I will make it as simple as possible. Let’s get going…

 

Background –

Generally speaking the more power, in terms of watts, that your radio generates, the more distance your signal will go. Antennas also make a big difference in actual transmitting capability than just power alone.

Here is a chart that shows the same radio(s) with different antennas. Notice the differences in “gain” just changing the antenna being used in conjunction with a frequency.

baofeng UV-5RMHP vs UV-5RA antenna resultsBottom line…maybe using a “matched” frequency with the right sized antenna can give you similar power capabilities of a 4w and 8w radios.

Reasonable Options –

For handheld radios you have essentially 3 power settings available to be used…1watt, 4watt, and 8watt.

Very generally speaking an 8watt radio will generate a more powerful transmitting signal. That generally means a transmission that will go further on a 8watt radio vs. a 1watt or 4watt. But, don’t be confused…it won’t be 2times or 8times longer distance signal respectively.

So is more powerful always better?

Yes, No…depends. Don’t you just hate me 🙂

OK, I gotta touch on a critical issue that is the determining factor in handheld power…safety. Yeah, kinda of weird, eh?

In this case I am not going to be referring to daily use, or usage during emergencies or disasters. I am going to specifically speak about “grid-down” and operations during that eventuality. I should probably have mentioned OpSec or ComSec rather than safety.

OpSec = Operational Security. Keeping your operations safe and secure from outside interference. That interference could cover a wide range of options…discovering your location or ambushing you. Having good good OpSec means non-need-to-know people don’t find out what you are doing before or during an operation.

ComSec – Communications Security. Keeping your communications secure from outside interception and/or keeping them from understanding what you are communicating. Having good ComSec mean non-need-to-know people can’t somehow listen in to your communications. Or, if they do, they can’t understand what you are communicating.

Now that I covered that…what does it have to do with the power of your radio?

Let’s say you have a great BugOut location and you have 5 families located there. Your area of operations (AO) covers the immediate 40acres of property that you own and the forest about mile in any direction. You want to be able to communicate with handheld radios within the AO.

You set your radios to 8watts to ensure that you can easily talk to each other. It works great! And one day a group of bad guys is traveling on a highway about 6 miles away. They are scanning the basic UHF/VHF frequencies as well as GMRS and FRS frequencies. They pick up your radio transmissions and hear you talking about the teenage girls are out harvesting apples. Oh, yeah…you are about to get visitors.

Point? Using a much lower transmission power reduces the distance your signal can travel. Hence, the signal may not have reached the badguys had you been using a 1w or 4w radio.

So just use the low or medium power setting on an 8w radio!?!?! Right?

How often so people use the power they have? Albeit, car, truck, radio, tractor, anything? Someone at some point will turn the power to 8watts and jeopardize your ComSec and OpSec.

Now, if you have 100% control over ComSec and people’s actions…feel free to go to an 8watt radio platform.

Summary –

There is one more influencing issue…cost. The 8watt radio that we are talking about is the Baofeng BF-F8HP. FYI, I reviewed it yesterday. It is well more than double the price of the Baofeng UV-5RA. So I would rather spend the money on buying more radios and better accessories than a radio with more wattage that may or may not be more useful to our situation.

If I had no money restrictions and I had confidence in my ComSec (or didn’t care about ComSec) I would buy the Baofeng BF-F8HP..

If I had a specific need for longer distance transmission I would buy the Baofeng BF-F8HP. Or, look at buying a mobile radio with even more wattage. An example of this kind of need would be a repeater. Yes, there might be a repeater located in my AO that I need to reach and only an 8watt handheld could do it.

So, now it is your job to figure out what you need/mission is, what your budget is, what your ComSec is, and then chose which radio is best for you. And I wouold wait until I read my next article i this series coming out tomorrow 🙂

 

 

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Get Home Bag (GHB)

Get Home Bag (GHB)note: first appeared in January 2015

Have you ever considered being at work, school, church, or anywhere other than home – and then wondered if a disaster hit right now, right here…how would I get home?  Especially a situation such as “grid-down” and you couldn’t drive?  Yes, maybe an EMP situation but I am not talking that drastic, I am just saying it was an emergency and you were stuck traveling on foot.GHB to get home after a disaster.

Well, you still have the basic emergency and disaster priorities LIPS <click here>.  So your first thought should be what gear and equipment do you have to work with.  Then what gear and equipment is available to you in your immediate surroundings, and then what can you acquire by scavenging. Wouldn’t it be great to start with a basic gear load to help you get home to your family?

It’s called a Get Home Bag (GHB).  Let’s get talking about what I think is a good basic load for a GHB.  Keep in mind that your GHB may contain items different than the list here.  And your list should be based on your needs vs. mine. But this is a good starting part to get you thinking.

Any project with me has to have a clear, specific mission to make sure I am focused on the “need & solution.”  Here is my mission statement for my GHB:

To provide necessary items required to assist in returning to my home from work or another location. To provide the primary means of survival, including: defense, first aid, communications, water, food, shelter and navigation.

Remember: I am a huge believer in the “space & weight” concept. You can always find lots of stuff to put in your bag.  BUT…Is it really needed just to get home?  That’s all you are trying to do…just get home.  So before you start loading that bag up, consider each piece of gear and decide is it is really needed.  I would rather move lighter and faster vs. carrying the kitchen sink.Fieldline Tactical pack for a get home bag.

PACK – Fieldline Tactical Pack : You can use any pack you wish but I like this particular pack for its compartments, accessibility, and comfort.  It is sturdy and plenty of options to store gear.  There is a good argument to be made to use a civilian pack to lower your profile and blend in more.  Your choice.

DEFENSE –  I carry a separate small bag with me each day that carries my every day carry pistol, extra magazines, tactical light, pepper spray, and holster.  So those items are always with me in my truck.  Additionally, in my GHB kit I have have a ESEE3 knife, extra magazine and 48 rounds of XTP and a double magazine pouch.  There is no folding knife listed because I always have my Spyderco Paramilitary 2 on me .

FIRST AID – Elwyn Field Dressing (carried on my person).  In the pack: 6″ Israeli Trauma Dressing, Mole Skin, Quick Clot, 4-1/2″ role of gauze.NDUR survival straw

WATER- NDuR survival straw or LifeStarw (carried on my person).  In the pack: 2-liter bladder (in the pack’s bladder compartment), 1-1/2 liter aluminum water bottle, and Portable Aqua Tablets.

FOOD – In the pack: 3xFreeze dried food pouch, 1xFreeze dried granola with milk & blueberries, stainless steel GI cup, spork.Baofeng UV-5r handheld radio

COMMUNICATIONS – I have my cell phone but I don’t depend on it for communications.  Baofeng UV-5r handheld radio in pouch (carried on my person).  In the pack: Whistle, signal mirror, and 3″x5″ (Write in the Rain) notebook with pen. Plus, 12vDC charger and a 14.5″ antenna for the radio.

FIRE – 3 lighters; 1 on my person, 2 in the pack. One container of waterproof matches in my pack.Petzel Tactikka XP headlamp

LIGHT – Petzel Tactikka XP headlamp (carried on my person).  In the pack: Gerber Recon LED flashlight (white, red, blue lights) and one extra set of batteries for each.

MISC. – Celestron 10 x 25 monocular, map in a Ziplock bag, toilet paper in a Ziplock bag, hand sanitizer, body wipe towelette, compass, money pouch with $50 in bills and coins, camo poncho, pair of Mechanix brand gloves, and 550 paracord (12′ with Maxpedition carabineer & 18′ with Maxpedition carabineer)

GridDownChaosNOTES:

  1. I consider the Elwyn Field Dressing as my Blow-Out-Kit (BOK) and is carried in a cargo pocket of my pants.
  2. I use Mountain House freeze dried food because it tastes great and is very lightweight.  It can actually be eaten with cold water or simply by itself without water.
  3. Hand sanitizer is critical!  Not keeping your hands clean after bathroom breaks and before eating will make you very sick.
  4. The camo poncho is my choice for its ability to help conceal you on the trip home if needed.  It can also be used as a shelter along with the paracord.  And if all else fails, when it rains it can help keep you dry.
  5. The 550 paracord is in two different lengths so I am less likely to have to cut it.  I use only 550 paracord for its superior strength and durability.  If you haven’t used the Maxpedition carabineers you haven’t lived.  They are fantastic.
  6. The body wipe is in there in case you are out longer than overnight.  Getting crotch rot sucks.  Keep yourself clean to keep yourself on the move.
  7. I chose the ESEE3  vs. my ESEE6 in this situation because the 3 is smaller, lighter weight and easier to conceal.  That little knife is just as sturdy and useful as its 6″ bigger brother.

Get prepared, prepare a bag, get home. You family needs you.

 

 

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