Baofeng UV-5RA Handheld Radio

Baofeng UV-5r handheld radioUV-5RA radio from Baofeng. I can’t say enough good things about this little radio!  This radio is compact, battery charge lasts a very long time, versatile, and so far it is proving itself to be very durable.  The downside? Yeah, made in China.

FYI…I spent about $130 for the radio and all the accessories to make this radio really work in every aspect for me.  This is a true bargain in every sense of the word. This radio, as I have outfitted it with accessories, goes a very long way towards overcoming communications issues during emergencies and disasters. When it comes to “grid-down” I believe this little beauty will make a life-saving difference.

One of the highest priorities in any emergency or disaster (yes, including “grid-down”) is the ability to Boafeng UV-5r handheld Ham Radiocommunicate.  And this sweet little radio is fully programmable; it is wide open to programming on any of the standards 70cm and 2m frequencies available to Ham operators, plus a whole lot more!  It can also be programmed for all the NOAA, FRS, GMRS and MURS frequencies for use during emergencies.

This is a true dual-band radio as well.  You can monitor 2 frequencies at the same time, even frequencies on different bands.  The LCD screen clearly displays the frequencies or channel names. And switching between the two frequencies is very easy, push one button.

At just $24 per radio it is an unbelievable bargain. Easily affordable for each member of your family or group.

Some standard, web-based information and technical specifications…

The handheld radio is a micro-miniature multi-band FM transceiver with extensive receive frequency coverage, providing local-area two-way amateur communications along with incredible monitoring capability.

Tech Specs:Baofeng UV-5RA

  • Frequency Range: 136-174 / 400-479.995 MHz.
  • Full height two-color LED definition display. The screen has exquisite clarity.
  • Field programmable from keypad.
  • Programmable via computer software.

The Baofeng UV-5RA is a compact F.C.C. Part 90 hand held transceiver providing 4 watts in the frequency range of 136-174 MHz and 400-480 MHz. It is a compact, economical handie-talkie (HT) that includes a special VHF receive band from 65 – 108 MHz which includes the regular FM broadcast band. Dual-monitor and dual-reception is supported. You get up to 128 memories that are programmable from the keypad or via programming software.

Other features include:Baofeng UV-5r handheld radio

  • selectable wide/narrow,
  • battery save function,
  • VOX,
  • DCS/CTCSS encode,
  • keypad lock,
  • built in flashlight.

Selectable frequency steps include:  2.5, 5, 6.25, 10, 12.5 and 25 kHz. RF power may be selected at 1 or 4 watts depending on your field needs and battery life requirements.

This radio comes with:

  • ANT5 SMA-J flexible antenna (rubber ducky),
  • BL-5 Li-ion battery (7.4V 1800 mAh),
  • Ear piece and lapel microphone,
  • belt clip,
  • wrist strap,
  • drop-in charging tray with AC adapter (8.4V 600mA).

I loved this radio as soon as I took it out of the box! There is a “feel” to it that just gives that impression that it is a decent quality little radio. It doesn’t quite compete with my Yaesu FT-60R but my 60R was also SIX TIMES more expensive!

From a fully functional, field utility perspective, the UV-5RA competes just fine with the 60R. And I would rather every member of my family have a UV-5RA than only one member of the family have the better quality, far more expensive, Yaesu FT-60R.

I did some field programming from the keypad and it is OK but would be tedious and challenging to try and do to much of it without a manual right there and plenty of patience. I use the RT Systems software to program the UV-5RA. The RT Systems software works perfectly, easy to use, dependable, and I love the support from RT Systems folks if you ever have a question.

There is a huge bunch of accessories for this little gem. You can add-on to this radio to make it function in just about any role or perform any mission you need it to. Couple things that I did with this radio that might interest you:

  • Turned it into a vehicle based mobile radio with improved range.
  • Made a “mini-communications” center with it with way better antennas for improved range.
  • Increased its battery life by adding a 3800 mAh battery to it.
  • Added a AA battery tray to it making it more versatile with alkaline or rechargeable batteries.
  • Made it independent of internal power with a 12vDC adapter cord.

Here is a list of accessories that I consider a “must buy” to really make the radio fully function for emergency, disaster and “grid-down” usage:

  • 14.5″ dual-band antenna – Significantly improves operational range and quality of reception.
  • Vehicle external antenna & connector/adapter cable – Allows the radio be operated from a vehicle with considerably more transmit and receive range.
  • Speaker Microphone – Makes radio operation in many circumstances way more convenient, especially during vehicle operation in conjunction with the vehicle external antenna & connector/adapter cable.
  • Programming software & cable – This is an absolute must as far as I am concerned to allow this radio to become fully functional for you. It opens up a whole lot of capability and “usability” for you. RT Systems is the only programming software I use or recommend.

Bottom line…

“BUY” this radio and you won’t ever regret it!

 

Baofeng UV-5RA radio for sale

If you would like to see the best price just for the UV-5RA radio visit Amazon →

 

The radio is now only $24.00 on amazon!!

 

 

 

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Yaesu FT-60R Ham Radio : Storing and Transporting Case

Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radionote: article first appeared in January 2015

In this post I will go over how I store my 60R, what I store/transport it in, and what I store with it.

In a previous article that was posted about 15 minutes ago I went over the Yaesu FT-60R radio and accessories.

So let’s go over my standard format, what is the mission for all of this?

 

Mission –

To safely store two radios and all components with which to operate the radios.

Requirements & Restrictions –
  1. Cases must be sturdy, at least to military specifications.
  2. Cases musty protect against dust, dirt, and water impingement.
  3. Cases should protect the contents against damage due to reasonable heights and rough handling.
  4. Cases should be low profile and not draw attention to them.
  5. Case should be light enough for one person to easily carry.

SKB i-series 3I-1711--68-C.The case I chose was the SKB i-series 3I-1610–58-C. These cases are waterproof and as sturdy, if not more so, that Pelican cases. And they are cheaper that Pelican cases. They come with “cubed” foam ready to be cut to size for your equipment.

 

 

SKB i-series 3I-1610--58-C for my Yaesu FT-60r handheld radios

So this is what my case looks like for my two Yaesu FT-60R radios.  The case is clearly labeled for easy identification.

SKB i-series 3I-1610--58-C for my Yaesu FT-60r handheld radiosYaesu FT-60R Radio Case –

Bottom Level:

  • 2 x Antennas, Dual-Band, 14.5″, Comet SMA24
  • 2 x RF coaxial cable SMA female to UHF SO239 PL259 femaleRG58
  • 2 x FT-60R Owner’s manual and US Amateur Bands chart in a Ziplock bag
  • 1 x RT Systems Programming CD

SKB i-series 3I-1610--58-C for my Yaesu FT-60r handheld radiosMiddle Level:

  • 2 x Yaesu-VC-25 VOX Headsets

 

 

 

SKB i-series 3I-1610--58-C for my Yaesu FT-60r handheld radiosTop Level:

  • 2 x Yaesu FT-60R radios
  • 2 x Antenna, 7″ (rubber duck)
  • 2 x Battery packs, rechargeable, L34D
  • 2 x Battery trays, AAA
  • 2 x Chargers, 12vDC (cigarette light style)
  • 2 x Chargers, 120vAC
  • 2 x Surveillance style earpieces with lapel microphones.
  • 1 x RT Systems Programming Cable

I have given you a list of the equipment needed to run the Yaesu FT-60R Ham radio. Is it everything you might need?  This was meant strictly for the radio equipment itself and the essential equipment to get it going.

Take this list and use it as a starting point for your specific need and mission.

Note #1 : I specifically didn’t store batteries (other than the rechargeable pack) because I didn’t want to run into a corrosion issue.

Note #2 : This is a smaller case than the ones I use for the FT-8800, FT-8900, and the FT-897. Why? Because I bought this case first. If I had taken the time to measure everything out first I wold have stuck with the SKB i-series 3I-1711–68-C for all my radios.

 

 

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Yaesu FT-60R Handheld Radio

Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radionote: article first appeared in January 2015

As you soon as you pick up this radio you know you are holding a high-quality piece of electronic gear.  It has that “feel” to it, and you won’t be disappointed. The sound quality is excellent, 1000 programmable channels for all your favorite frequencies, and it can handle water! While I wouldn’t try submersing it, this radio can handle a pounding rain storm.

Generally I am seeing the radio last about 4 days on a full charge 1400mAH battery.  The dang radio is built solid and can take some abuse and drops; but please don’t.  The 60R is pricier that the Boafeng but it is also a whole lot higher quality radio.

If I was going to only have one Ham radio this would be the one I would buy.  Period!  End of story.

The Yaesu FT-60R dual-band 2 meter/440 MHz HT boasts 5 watts output on both bands. It also features wideband receive from 108-520 and 700-999.990 MHz (less cellular). Two programmable keys are provided for your convenience. There is even a password feature to prevent unauthorized use of your radio. Radio to radio cloning is possible with the optional CT-27A cable.

Other refinements include: One touch NOAA weather, nine DTMF auto dialer memories, die-cast weather resistant case, ARTS Auto-range transponder system. There is also a Mono-band and Memory-only operating mode.Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radio

Features –

  • Over 1000 Memories
  • 5 Watts RF Output
  • Backlit Keypad
  • Alphanumeric Display
  • NOAA Weather Alert
  • PL Encode/Decode
  • DCS Encode/Decode
  • Emergency Auto ID System
  • ARTS System

 

Dual Band VHF/UHF 2 Meter & 70cm Amateur Radio. CTCSS/DCS (PL & DPL), DTMF, AlphaNumeric Display, Lighted Keypad, Scan modes. Receives 108-520Mhz and 700-999.99Mhz (less cell), Transmits 144-148Mhz & 430-470Mhz, Locking mode prevents accidental changes of frequency. One Thousand memory Channels, NOAA Weather Alert, Receives Emergency channels in 800-900Mhz, RF Power Output: 5W (High) / 2W (Middle) / 5W (Low). Basic set-up includes 1400mA Battery, Charger, antenna & belt clip.

Note:  Don’t leave the radio charging in the charging cradle. Once its charged, take it out.

Here is a list of the options I would purchase along with the radio to give you a whole lot of flexibility and capability –

Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radioComet SMA24 DualBand Amateur Radio & Scanner SMA Antenna For Handhelds – 2M/440
This antenna is actually the correct antenna length for the Yaesu radio.  The short antenna that comes with the radio (rubber ducky) is good but this antenna will get you better performance.  This antenna is more suited for the 2m and 70cm frequencies.  The only downside, as with all longer handheld antennas, is the spot where the antenna whip enters the antenna base.  I used a piece of “heat shrink wrap” to reinforce that point and assist in keeping any contaminants out.Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radio

Yaesu Standard 12V DC Adapter For Handheld Tranceivers SDD-13 E-DC-5B
You have to be prepared to run off of 12vDC power during any disaster or emergency.  This charger will replace the AC charger that comes with the radio and allows you to recharge your radio’s battery of any 12vDC power source (i.e. your car battery).

 

RadioAntennaCarYaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radioVehicle external antenna & Connector cable plus speaker/microphone : This three-part accessory is a must have for vehicle operations.  Operating a handheld radio inside your vehicle will reduce its power to reach out longer distances due to the metal shell of your vehicle.  It may also interfere with the quality of transmission as well; making your message sound distorted at the other end.  You overcome this by mounting an antenna on the roof of your vehicle.  Not a permanent antenna, a magnetic mount antenna; you can move the antenna to other vehicles if needed.  You can also use it in a non-vehicle setting as well by placing the antenna higher than the radio would normally be located.  You must use the adapter cable to connect the radio to the antenna cable.  Using the separate speaker/mic prevents wearing out the connection between the adapter cable and the radio.  You don’t have to hold the radio and move it around, you simply use the speaker/mic and leave teh radio sitting in one place.

Accessories to buy for this three-pack –Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radio

  • Tram 1185 Amateur Dual-Band Magnet Antenna
  • RF coaxial cable SMA female to UHF SO239 PL259 femaleRG58
  • Yaesu Vertex MH-34B4B Speaker Microphone

 

Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radio

Yaesu-VC-25 VOX Headset : This headset allows you to have a whole lot more privacy while using your 60R as more of a base station.  Which you can do by the way by adding a better antenna.  But this headset is top-quality unlike a lot of  the knock off aftermarket stuff.

 

Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radio

Battery Tray :  The Yaesu FBA-25A battery tray is a great option to leverage your AA rechargeable batteries. I found that some of the rechargeable AA batteries on the market are a little large of diameter to fit in the tray correctly.  I use Energizers and have no problem.

Yaesu FT-60r headset

Headset : If you want to go “undercover” and look like a secret agent or be discreet about having a radio under your coat you can use the IXRadio TW-HSBYA807-Y.  This is sometimes referred to as a FBI headset.  It is discreet and low-profile.

 

Yaesu FT-60r handheld Ham radio

Programming Software w/cable :  RT Systems FT-60r Radio Software.  While the radio is fully programmable from the keypad that is not the way you want to try and program this puppy. I tried several different “free” programming software program; had problems with all of them.  RT Systems puts out a superb product that can’t be beat in my opinion. FYI – You can use the files from any of the RT Systems software to transfer to any other radio that you are programming.  So I can use all programming I did for my FT-60r for my Yaesu 8900 radio as well with a simple click of a software button.

 

 

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Tip: from former Acting United States Attorney General Matthew Whitaker

One of the most interesting things to come out of my research into Mueller’s testimony on 7/24 was a statement made by  former Acting United States Attorney General Matthew Whitaker.

He was commenting on how so many of the people surrounding Trump Russia investigation ended up with obstruction and/or lying to an FBI agent charges. He was pretty upset about it and he was obviously not pleased with the behavior of the FBI and their conduct during their questioning of suspects.

Here was his takeaway point…Never talk to FBI personnel without an attorney present. He then repeated it and made clear that id din’t matter if they were talking to you as a suspect, person of interest, or even a witness.

So why an attorney present?

FBI personnel are highly trained interrogators. And it is well documented that the training includes “psychological manipulation.” Now, don’t read this sentence if you don’t want to see a vulger curse word…Special Agents commonly refer to this psychological manipulation as a “mind fuck.” Yeah, that means they know how to, and use, psychological manipulation (screwing with your mind psychologically) to get the answers they want. They also use environmental manipulation as well to make a person more susceptible to psychological manipulation. They have also been known to use violence as an interrogation method.

So Whitaker said first…Always be truthful with an FBI agent.Then he said…Always have a lawyer with you whenever answering questions by the FBI.

Why? Because anything other than the truth is a felony.

Interesting to note…it is perfectly legal for an FBI agent to lie while asking questions. Yup, FBI agents lie while asking questions and it is perfectly legal for them to do so.

Another trick they use is the threat of (i.e. blackmail) a long list of charges that you will be charged with…and/or family members will be charged. That extortion attempt is to get you to admit to whatever they are looking for (normally a less charge than used in the extortion attempt)…whether you are guilty of it or not. Remember…they, the FBI and federal prosecutors, are under no legal, moral, or professional requirement to prove you innocent. Their sole goal is a conviction, or plea deal, for a crime.

So…roll all of this into one huge ball of crap and a long history of infamous acts, including perjury, FBI agents are simply not to be trusted…ever! And that is from former Acting United States Attorney General Matthew Whitaker. Anytime the FBI would ever want to talk with you…have your lawyer there with you…a criminal defense lawyer. Why? Because a criminal defense lawyer knows the FBI tricks, lies, and mental manipulation techniques…and will prevent you from becoming another victim of the FBI. If you are actually guilty of something, that criminal defense attorney will ensure that due process is actually applied according tot he Constitutional rights we have as US citizens.

So, do you have to answer questions asked by the FBI? Yes, but only to identify yourself. Other than that you do not have to answer questions. And you have the right to have an attorney present during any questioning.

So, if Special Agents attempted to question me…about anything:

  1. I would only identify myself.
  2. I would politely inform them that I want attorney present before I answer any questions.
  3. I would not, never, ever, believe a single word that comes out of their mouth because they have a legal right to lie to you about anything. And they are trained to lie very, very skillfully.
  4. I would then not answer any question other than stating “I want an attorney.”
  5. Repeat steps 1 – 4……..no deviation….period!

So, you may want to doubt me…okay, fine. By ask yourself this, why would former Acting United States Attorney General Matthew Whitaker say, “Never talk to FBI personnel without an attorney present!”?

If you are honest with yourself you will know the answer.

And how do I know this to be true? Personal, first-hand experience. Yup, you read that right. Maybe one day I will write about it.

 

 

 

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Silver & Gold…Really?

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silvernote: article first appeared in May 2015, updated/edited in July 2019.

So the question that I get asked quite a bit is, “Should I have gold and/or silver and how much?”

Great question! And for me it is an easy answer, but maybe for different reasons than you might think.

So, what is the answer?

It is not a simple answer but I will get into the details but first, if this is a question you might have, I want you to answer this question,

“What would be (or is) the purpose for you owning (or wanting to own) precious metals?”

My answer – I want to have some “real” money if, (or I should say) when, the fake fiat paper money that the US Dollar is Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverfails.

Really? Seriously?

Yes, to both. Let me explain, get a dollar bill out of your wallet or purse. Now look at the front of the bill (the side with Washington’s picture), what does it say up at the top of the paper? “FEDERAL RESERVE NOTE” (if you have a real dollar bill). What does that mean?

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverAh, well my friends who is the Federal Reserve? Well, funny you should ask, the Federal Reserve (Fed) is the central bank of the United Sates…and it is made up of 12 commercial banks located in different regions around the country. The Federal Reserve is Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverNOT part of the US government. The Fed has no government agency providing oversight, auditing or control. Everything the Fed does internally is secret from everyone, including the government. Yup!

And why is this important? Well, you see the term “note” means “loan” in the English language. So the $1.00 bill you are looking at is a loan (promissory note) to the Federal Reserve in the amount of $1.00.

So? That means the dollar bill is not truly money, it is receipt for a loan you have made to the Federal Reserve and that “note” like other loans can be defaulted on. And the US Government doesn’t have to stand behind (i.e. guarantee) that it will make good on that dollar bill should the Fed decide not to honor it as a note or loan.Yes, the dollar bill does say it is legal currency for all debts public and private. That simply means that you can exchange that note with other people to help identify the value of what you are exchanging. But remember, the note is only as good as the entity that is backing it. And should the entity decide to no longer back it, then consider what actual value does that dollar bill have. In any event, with what exactly would the government pay you for your dollar bill? In other words…what would they give you if you tried to redeem, or cash in, that Federal Reserve promissory note?

So you see the paper money you think you have in your wallet or purse is actually only a promise to pay a loan. A loan with absolutely ZERO assets to secure it with. Sounds pretty shady to me. US currency needs to be worth something tangible to make any sense, right? Coins used to be made out of silver and so they were actually worth something tangible. Paper currency used to be redeemable for precious metals, but no more.

So ask yourself, “Why did they stop backing currency with precious metals?

Yeah, getting a little spooked yet?

But let’s talk about the money you have in your bank account, mutual fund, 401k, IRA, etc. How much is that worth? Well, it is only worth something if you can take it out and convert it into cash, right? So that “value” while in the bank or mutual fund company possession isn’t even worth Federal Reserve Notes at this point, it is only “digital” money existing in the computer world.

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverAnd think about the phrase “full faith and credit.” Yeah, that is what is supposedly backing up the US currency (Federal Reserve Note). The Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverfull faith and credit of the Unites States government. The same government that is currently $23,000,000,000,000 ($23trillion) in actually debt and another $120,000,000,000,000 ($100trillion) in unfunded liabilities.

I have laid the basic groundwork for my explanation of the value of precious metals to a “prepper.” But now I will lay out my mission for precious metals:

To have a source of a tangible currency of intrinsic value with which to bribe and buy during the initial stages of a “grid-down”, emergency, or disaster.

Yes, you read that correctly. I have not bought into the whole “investment” aspect of precious metals and I certainly don’t have enough assets to make me wealthy…hence, using it as a wealth preservation tool. Precious metals are a horrible investment because its value can be so erratic. If I was worth a million dollars I would probably have about $100,000 in gold. That would make it easy for me to retain some of my wealth in the event I was unable to access the bulk of my assets. If I had the need, I could transport my gold “insurance” rather easily since it would weigh less than 7 pounds.

Now let me explain to you my mission for precious metals the way it works for me. Let’s take the most extreme case, which is where I think the real purpose actually lies. So the grid goes down, most people don’t have a lot of cash on hand, so they will try to use a credit or debit card to panic buy “things” they think they need such as food. How long do you think that card accepting capability would continue working? I think debit and credit cards would be useless rather quickly. Cash would probably become unavailable rather quickly once people burned through what little they had on hand and the ATM machines ran out and the bank doors closed.

So what is left?

People with precious metals will get it out and start using it to buy the things that they need. The word will get around pretty quickly that there are people willing to pay for things in gold and silver vs. paper money. The people with “stuff”…who will want to sell that “stuff” to? Yup, people with gold and silver. Which then naturally becomes very valuable since it is the only true currency that is in demand. Hence, gold and silver has increasing value.

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverRemember I said “bribe and buy” and I laid out the case for “buy” in the preceding paragraph. How does the “bribe” come into play? Easy, people without gold and silver will want it. People that have ways in which to earn it will want as much gold and silver as they can acquire.

Remember my “power and money” concept?

 

  • People with money want power and can buy the power.
  • People with power want money so they use force or commerce to acquire money.

Yes, that is exactly how government and politicians work today. But we are talking a “grid-down” situation. Now simply substitute “money” with “gold.” How’s that working for you now?

Practical Example #1: You have $500 in cash from your gun safe and head to Sam’s Club to buy the last 20 gallons of olive oil and 100lbs of rice. You get there and the manager tells you the store is closing because they can’t transact credit or debit cards anymore. You tell him you have cash. He says he doesn’t care. You get out a 1/10th ounce solid gold US Mint coin. He says, “Welcome to Sam’s Club! How can I help you?”

Practical Example #2: You are trying to make it home and there is a roadblock. You are the second car in line and you hear them say that the road is closed and no one is getting through. You ask for the supervisor and ask to speak with him privately. While asking him to be let through you let him see the 1oz gold US Mint Eagle coin and assure him that his family would appreciate the help that gold would bring to their security. Fifteen minutes later you are 10 miles down the road having passed through the roadblock.

The examples could go on and on but you get my point. When paper money becomes worthless or scarce, precious metals will be in demand. And if you have some, then you will be able to buy power since you have real money.

Yes, there is a dangerous downside to having it. Other people may want it so badly they will simply try to take it from you. And they may hurt or kill you, or your family, in the process. So you do have to be smart about how you handle precious metals and who you try to bribe and buy from. But that is another topic – security.

Now, for the average prepper, what kind or precious metals and how much? Again, for me it is simple.

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverSilver – is the poor man’s gold. Silver is more easily purchased because you can do so in dollar amounts that is more compatible with most people’s budgets. An ounce of silver right now is in the mid-$15 range. Gold about mid-$1,500 range. And for “grid-down” situations buying I like “junk silver.” Technically that is only a nickname, junk silver are 90% silver coins. Silver coins are easy to recognize and calculate value since they come in dime, quarter, half-dollar, and dollar denominations.  And so that makes transactions easier, faster and more defined.

Silver “rounds” are 1oz silver coins put out by various mints. They sure are pretty and they are in demand. They are .999 pure, Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silveror should be. Then there is silver “bullion.” It is much harder to transact with bullion since the true purity and value is almost impossible to assess in the field. So I would buy 90% silver coins first. If I still had some extra money I would buy silver rounds in either 1oz or 1/4oz weights.

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silver

 

Gold – I like gold for a couple reasons, mostly just because of the “feel” in your hand or when it “clunks” on a hard stone surface. I would only recommend you buying US Mint coins. Yes, coins from South African, Australia and Canada are reliable and high quality, but I only want the US Mint stuff. And I don’t like full 1oz coins because they are so expensive to acquire. But mostly I am not crazy about them because when trying to make

1/10th oz ounce gold coin eagle US mint precious meatls prepper emergencies, disasters, grid-dwon

Not actual size.

a deal after grid-down. You have a full ounce of gold and do you really think you are going to be buying or bribing for something that valuable? So my solution is 1/10oz US Mint “eaglets.” They will run about 11 – 12% of the cost of a full one ounce coin and worth every penny. But, if I had enough wealth that I was going to try and transport then I would use the 1oz Eagles.

Now, how much precious metals to buy and have on-hand –

I will look at this as 100% valuation regardless of the $ amount you have available to purchase precious metals. So it doesn’t matter how much money you have to purchase precious metals, I will go by percentages of that amount.

The first $3,000 – here is my step-by-step method of acquiring precious metals:

  1. 60% in junk silver, mostly dimes, then quarters, then fifty-cent pieces.
  2. 20% in 1/4oz silver rounds.
  3. 20% in 1oz silver rounds.

Any amount after the first $3,000 – here is the step-by-step:

  1. 50% in 1/10oz US Mint gold eaglets.
  2. 25% in in junk silver, mostly dimes, then quarters, then fifty-cent pieces.
  3. 20% in 1oz silver rounds.
  4. 5% in 1/4oz silver rounds.

This gives a person a very well rounded cache of precious metals. But notice that the first $3,000 purchased is all in silver. Then after that $3,000 I would include some gold. And finally finish it off with more silver.

Tips:

  • Don’t buy it all from the same place or dealer.
  • Don’t buy it all on-line.
  • eBay is a decent place to buy silver coins and rounds if you watch for deals.
  • Don’t store it all in one place.
    • Some in the gun safe.
    • Some in the garage.
    • Some in the ground.
  • Don’t tell anyone but your spouse where you have hidden it.
  • Buy it with cash whenever possible.
  • Do not use credit cards or go into debt to buy precious metals.
Almost final thought –

I think there will be a small window of opportunity after a grid-down event when precious metals are worth Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverthe most. I am thinking maybe after the 3 – 7 day time-frame but before the 30th day of grid-down for sure. After about a month I think its value will go down considerably…or trying to use it to bribe and buy may become very dangerous. Then, after the worst of TEOTWAWKI is over, I think precious metals will become valuable again. But it could take years for that to happen, if it at all. And then there is always the possibility that even owning precious metals could become illegal and would be confiscated. Yes, it has happened before in the United State under a radical Progressive socialist President.

Precious Metals for preppers - grid-down, emergencies and disasters - gold & silverFinal thought –

Precious metals should be the last thing you purchase for prepping. You should have your guns & ammo, your medical supplies, your water filtration and storage, your food storage (for at least a year), your communications gear, and your 3-year seed bank before you buy any precious metals. Once all that (the basics) is taken care of then you can consider precious metals as a “prepper” item. Until then…stay the heck away from precious metals, it isn’t worth the risk.

A thought for your consideration…

A wise man once said “You can’t eat gold.”

 

 

 

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Robert Mueller…my, oh, my…

Okay…let’s get the foundation laid first. I began writing about the coup against President Trump 2-1/2 years ago…long before anyone else was using the term “coup”…but a coup it was and is.

You can read my SitReps for background if you wish:

So on to the matter at hand…his testimony yesterday. Oh boy!

 

So let me be brief in explaining my optional views…he was:

  • Feeble and disoriented or,
  • Extremely uninformed and stupid or,
  • Sly and cunning or,
  • A useful idiot.

Yes, potentially he could have been a combination of several of those options listed.

But let’s first remember who Mueller is:

  • Educated in extremely liberal universities.
  • Appointed to all his government positions by globalists and extreme liberals.
  • Former Director of the FBI. In 2001 he was appointed by President GW Bush (globalist & Ruling Class). President Obama (globalist & Marxist) retained Mueller as FBI Director.
  • Employed by a law firm deeply connected to the the Washington DC elites. That law firm is (WilmerHale) and is rated as the most liberal law firm out of the biggest top 20 law firms in the country.
  • He is a close personal friend of James Comey.
  • He was a prime player substantiating the claim of weapons of mass destruction in Iraq. That later proved to be false. Although used as the sole reason to attack/invade Iraq killing hundreds of thousands and costing trillions of dollars.

So there are some interesting insights to who this character is. But let’s get to his appearance in the hearings yesterday.

First off, Mueller clearly appeared to be unprepared for questions he was asked. I won’t bore you with the details but he gave little new information, virtually nothing outside of what was in his report. However, it is interesting to note:

  1. He contradicted himself in his testimony vs the report. It could be called a lie. But, he did correct his testimony later in the day before he could be brought up on charges of perjury.
  2. He was completely unaware of Fusion GPS. That is the firm that was hired by Hillary Clinton and produced a completely fabricated story against Trump. And the fabrication was done by a foreign agent with ties to Russia. And that foreign agent admitted, under oath, to British authorities that the report was completely false. And that fabricated report was the entire basis of the investigation against Trump in the first place. Again, a couple other questions…Why wasn’t Mueller aware of the investigation’s very foundation? Why wasn’t Clinton investigated for her role in the Russian conspiracy?
  3. He claimed he was completely unaware of his primary staff’s rabid anti-Trump agenda when he hired them. Most notable was his lack of knowledge of FBI agent Peter Strzok and Strzok’s involvement in the coup against Trump along with a long list of other FBI personnel. While Mueller said he reassigned Strzok after he was made aware of it…that is now debatable based on facts of the timing. The main question…Why wasn’t Strzok then a target of Mueller’s investigation since Strzok was a primary advocate of the Fusion GPS report?
  4. He originally lied about his friendship with James Comey, stating he was only a professional associate. When additional information was provided by the questioner, Mueller admitted that Comey was a close friend.
  5. And here is a key point…it is not the role of a prosecutor to “exonerate” a suspect (i.e. the person being investigated). The prosecutor’s role is to bring charges, or not, based on evidence…period. Mueller used the report to lay out that failure to exonerate outside of the law…and strictly to fuel the coup.

So what is my opinion about Mueller…Based on his obvious background of his Ruling Class status, elitistism, and extremist liberalism:

  • He was put into the prosecutor position as part of the coup and for his dependability to support the Ruling Class and co-conspirators in the coup against Trump.
  • He hired the rabid anti-Trump investigation team knowing full well who they were and their participation in the coup.
  • He is playing a role of being old, feeble, disoriented, etc. to mask his role in the coup and to divert the spotlight away from himself. His cover story if you will.
  • He used the “can’t exonerate” term in the report and in his testimony knowing full well it was outside of the legal system to do so, and specifically to continue the propaganda war against Trump.
  • He is as dirty as they come…and typical of the DOJ and FBI.

So where are we now?

We are in the exact same place…a coup against President Trump is taking place. It started after he was elected in November 2016 and continues today. And I am telling you point blank, as clearly as I can, they are not done!

Be careful in what you see, hear, and believe. Be prepared.

 

 

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Yaesu FT-8900R Go Box & Power Box Together

note: first appeared in late 2015

As you know I’ve been working on a series of highly portable, field going Ham radio boxes and the portable power boxes to juice them with. This article is branching off to renewing the power to keep your Ham radio outfit up and running far beyond simply a day or two. This article is about solar power. Specifically, I will share some information about solar power from a Glowtech60 foldable solar kit.

I have already covered solar power and the recharging of small batteries powering a small radio. I did a review of a SolPad7 and Nomad7 solar recharging kits for AA and AAA batteries as well as how those little solar pads can directly charge your Baofeng UV-5RA. Those batteries of course would be powering your Baofeng UV-5RA handheld radio. But that was all about small, now is time to look at larger radios, larger power needs, and larger solutions.

Going back to the original mission that started all of this was the need for radio communications capability in the field. That mission is outlined as…

“Compact and portable radio equipment providing the ability to communicate over standard radio frequencies among family and group members.”

Once the need was identified and a mission defined, then came the power to keep it going. Yes, the portable radio go box has a battery and I also wrote a very brief article about using a Nomad7 or Boulder30 solar kit to recharge that battery. But you know me…one is none, two is one, and three is a good start. The next logical step would be an auxiliary power source to keep the radio operational for a longer period of time. That means a larger battery. Since the space is limited in the radio box, that means a box that holds that larger auxiliary battery.

OK, now we are getting somewhere. That lead to my design of the auxiliary power box. It more than tripled the overall amount of time that the radio would stay operational.

But, as I mentioned in the beginning of the article, it all ties together to form an integrated “system.”

Here are the system’s parts:

It is way easier to stay on the same page while explaining this system to you if I show you the pictures as we go. So here is the first picture…

This is the portable Ham-In-The-Box that I built for emergencies, disasters, and grid-down. The unit is wholly self-contained, including its own 14Ah rechargeable AGM battery. The radio itself will shut down at about 10vDC protecting the battery from becoming completely discharged. The next step was to build a portable power box to give the radio more operational time. The radio box is not designed to be operated sealed up. Duh! You gotta be able to access the radio. So no need to get fancy with “through-the-box” connections.

Part of the “guts” of the radio box build was a Powerwerx Red-Dee-2 4-way connector. I wanted flexibility to plug-in what I wanted and needed. The connector handles the radio, the voltage meter, and the battery. That leaves a connection open…and therein is the flexibility that I will show you.

The portable radio box is completely stand alone from an operational perspective. Open the box, connect the antenna, and plug the battery into the power distribution gadget. Then just turn on the radio and you are ready to go to work.

Note: The blue tape is holding a spare fuse that is protecting the battery. There is also a spare fuse that protects the radio. I carry a spare of each with the radio just in case.

The next step is to plug in the Boulder30 solar kit to recharge the battery. Well, technically, plugging the Boulder30 into the open connection on the power distribution block will provide power to the system and excess power will charge the battery continuously. Well, continuously as long as there is sun shinning.

We now have the stand-alone portable radio box up and running, plus a charging system in-place to keep it running. But we are somewhat limited in the amount of time that the radio can be operational. That operational time is directly related to the depth of charge, power reserve, which the small-ish internal battery has. That leaves us with the task of increasing the operational time, meaning that we need a larger battery, which then also means we need more charging capability. And that means the “portable power box.”

So the next picture shows that system hooked into the portable radio box. Notice the power cable connecting the two boxes? It is still just 10guage wire but it is heavily insulated by a durable cover that is resistant to the effects of the outdoors. It is a great choice in areas whose environment will not be kind to your equipment while ensuring it get the most power from the battery to the portable radio. Yes, it has Anderson Powerpoles on each end to ensure it connects to all my radio and power equipment.

This power box has a 35Ah rechargeable AGM battery. To protect the battery from over discharge it also has a built in Low Voltage Disconnect. Notice the power box can be completely sealed up and cables can be plugged in from the external Anderson Powerpole chassis mount.

The GoalZero Boulder30 with Guardian charge controller is now charging the power box’s 35Ah battery in the power box. However, since I have a second GoalZero Boulder30 system I can now hook up that additional system directly to the radio box rechargeable battery. Since the battery is not being used to power the radio it will come back up to full charge rather quickly given adequate sun.

Here is a picture of just the heavy power cable. For the information on how I built the heavy power cable from a set of jumper cables you can < click here to read the article >

All right, we now have hooked up the portable radio to the portable power. You have the Boulder30 charging the portable radio box’s battery. Here is a suggestion and the reasoning behind the suggestion. I suggest you run the portable radio from the portable power box. You can be charging both batteries as you normally would. But, by not using the battery in the portable radio box it allows the Boulder30 to concentrate on recharging the battery in the portable radio box.

Why is that important? Because you never know when you might have to “run” and you might have to leave some equipment behind due to time constraints. By keeping the portable radio box’s battery fully charged you know you will have several hours of radio operating time even if you had to leave the portable power box and solar kits behind.

But don’t worry about connecting all the solar kits and the boxes, just follow this guide:

  1. Set-up the portable power box and plug in the solar charging kit into the “input” side of the portable power box. You should see the voltage meter reading a combination of the battery charge and the solar panel voltage input. As long as that voltage doesn’t start dropping you are charging the battery or at least staying even with the charging vs. usage.
  2. Set-up the portable radio box like you normally would. But, this time don’t plug in the radio to the Red-Dee-2. Set-up your solar charging system and plug that solar system into the open connector on the Red-Dee-2. You should see the voltage meter reading a combination of the battery charge and the solar panel voltage input.
  3. Now, take your heavy power cable and plug it into the portable power box. Take the other end and plug it into the radio connector in the portable radio box. You radio should be ready-to-go while running the radio off the portable power box battery.

The next picture will now show how to keep the portable power box’s battery charged up with a larger solar system, the Glowtech60 solar kit plugged into it. The Glowtech60 power cable connects to the power box via the chassis mount connection block on the side of the portable power box. The Glowtech60 system has double the charging wattage that the GoalZero Boulder 30 system has. This will allow you to keep the power box up and running far more easily.

And there is one last benefit from using the Glowtech60 system to charge the power box…I freed up the second GoalZero Boulder30 panel and charge controller. I can use it to daisy chain to the radio battery giving it 60w total charging capability. Or, I can use the second Boulder30 on another battery that is in need of charging.

NOTE #1: Yes, the portable power box “input” connections can also take the standard AC battery charger. I designed a special set-up to allow your battery charger to recharge the battery directly without taking the battery out of the portable power box. Please make sure you are using a high-quality battery charger designed to work with a AGM battery. Not all battery charges are designed to do so. I would suggest NOT using your AC battery charger while the power box is hooked up to and running the radio.

You may choose to have a system that you have designed, or maybe someone else’s design. But I hope this article has given you plenty to think about and put a thought or two into your head concerning what solar/power/battery capability and options are right for your needs.

Remember, communications is one of the primary faults that exists in virtually any disastrous incident where people are injured or killed while working in emergency and disaster situations. You have the power to overcome all, or at least part, of those communications issues rather simply and cost effectively should you so choose. I hope you  choose to.

 

 

 

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In response to my Immediate Action Warning of 7/18/2019

From one of the website regular visitors –

“Thank you once again. I took this opportunity to go back and reread the first two parts of this SitRep on 6/16/2019 1 & 2

“As is my custom I went over your article for any clerical errors of the kind that software lets slide by. Not very many. AND then I took the first of these 3 articles and started to break it down into almost 1 sentence paragraphs.

“Why? Because you my friend, make so many salient points that I feel people will skip over. These points should all be highlighted, IMHO, so that they all give pause in a thorough re-reading. But who wants to read most of your article in yellow?

“So making each point into a tasty morsel seems the best way to allow time to digest. And as ever, I am trying to maintain an off line archive. Who will be able to go online, should there come a day?

My response…

I surely appreciate your kind words…I mean that sincerely. These articles take a lot of time to research, write, and edit. Having someone express their thanks gives me hope that people are listening…and more importantly, taking action.

When I write my SitReps each sentence is carefully crafted, every word, is specifically chosen. Sometimes my spelling is off, other times my grammar is off, and then there are the times my editing just sucks. But I try to make it all mean something specific.

I want folks to be able to read the article as it applies to them. I want them to feel prompted by what they read. What they are prompted to do is up to each as an individual but I want the articles to apply to everyone…regardless of their preparedness level, skills, knowledge, abilities, and commitment.

The “salient points” you refer to are there for a reason. Each point is there for an explicit reason. And those reasons are to prevent a person from falling into traps. Whether they be traps of politics, religion, preparedness, or any associated areas of concern.

Bottom line…I am trying to help the folks that are willing to listen and act. And in this day and age I think that pool of folks is shrinking…just when the need is the greatest.

 

 

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Glowtech60 Solar Kit

GlowTech - Glow Tech 60w dual solar panel system 30w solar panelsnote: article first appeared in August 2015

I am not a big one for generators, I believe they have their place, but in a very limited way. But there is a bona fide need for power; radios, tactical lights, GPS, etc. But I also believe that need is very limited. If you read my post about generators you know I see far more danger in using them then benefit from using them. < click here to read the article on generator dangers > However, when it comes time to have power, it is hard to beat the solar thing. And that is the focus of this article…solar power…specifically the Glowtech60 solar system.GlowTech-02

I have written about other solar charging systems before, but only small units. But now I have the need for something more, and that led to the need for more solar charging capability.

And you might be asking just how much solar generating capability is needed. Good question. No, great question! But I can only answer that by defining the need for that solar power generating capability or we would get carried away. Then my wife would have a fit over the 100’ tall wind turbine in the back yard. Not acceptable. So let’s define the mission…

A portable solar generating kit capable of efficiently charging a 35 – 100 Ah AGM battery, or bank of batteries.

Requirements & Restrictions –

  1. It must be portable enough that one average person can carry it.
  2. It must be durable enough to handle the weather conditions in the desert SW.
  3. Set-up must be simple and intuitive.
  4. All wiring must be compatible with Anderson Powerpoles.
  5. If it is dual-panel it must come with its own frame, stand and other parts to stand-alone.

That began my journey to find the right piece of equipment. Since I already had been using GoalZero solar equipment before I naturally looked at their stuff first. Whoa!

GoalZero has always been a little pricey. And when you start looking at 50w+ panels, or dual 30w panels, it gets expensive quickly. And so GoalZero equipment was ruled out really early in the process. But that left me to doing a whole lot of research. But I got lucky…

I was doing some research on solar charger controllers and came across the Glowtech60 product. I guess it came up due to the kit has a charger controller built into the system. As soon as I clicked on the link I figured there must be eBay GlowTech - Glow Tech 60w dual solar panel system 30w solar panelssome misprint in the price of the system…$135.

I did more reading and was impressed with what the system said it could do for the money. I read specs and they seemed to be right in line with what I was looking for. There were no negative reviews to speak of. The seller had a 99.7% positive rating with only 3 negative issues in the last year out of nearly a 1000 transactions. And the price was right.

I wasn’t really finding any other product that was beating the value/cost of the Glowtech product…so Bingo! I pulled the trigger and bought it.

Let me share the standard technical information…

GlowTech-05Features:

  • High efficiency monocrystalline solar panels
  • Suited for flooded, gel, AGM, or calcium batteries
  • Low iron tempered glass resists breakage
  • Durable folding frame, so you can tilt the panels toward the sun
  • Built-in PWM charge controller
  • Bonus! Includes fabric storage bag
  • Spring-loaded carrying handle
  • Solar panels are weatherproof and sealed to withstand the elements
  • Includes cables pre-wired for easy hookup
  • 25 years warranty on the solar panels

Now comes the day I set it all up for testing. And it was a mixed bag in some ways but I am not real satisfied and let me share what I saw…

First, the unit is not lightweight but perfectly acceptable. It weighs in at 19pounds. The carrying case does have a padded handle on the carry straps. And the straps are plenty sturdy enough as is the rest of the carry bag. But there is a flaw in the bag’s design…it sucks. Well, it’s not all that bad but let me explain how it could be better.

The solar panels have a clip that hold them together on the short edge. And a spring loaded handle to carry the solar panel unit when the panels are clipped together. But the bag is designed for the panels to be inserted on the long edge. Confused yet? What I am getting at, you can place the solar panels in the bag using the built-in handle on the panels themselves. That bag orientation (long edge) doesn’t match the solar panel’s carrying handle orientation (short edge).

Yes, it is more inconvenient that anything but it makes it just a bit clumsy putting the unit into the bag. The picture may give a better story…

GlowTech-10

The panels are designed to fold together, obviously. But they designed the panels to fold with the glass surface to the outside. I would designed it to fold and protect the glass of the panels. But I understand that they are thinking of the protecting the charge controller mounted to the back of the panels. And having the hinge reversed in my design would make it impossible to angle the panels to maximize the movement of the sun across the panels.

GlowTech - Glow Tech 60w dual solar panel system 30w solar panelsThat being said, I would then have place a little protective padding on the inside of the carrying case to protect those glass panels. And since there is some extra room in the bag I am going to improvise some protective padding. I will show that at the end of the article.

GlowTech - Glow Tech 60w dual solar panel system 30w solar panels

Setting up the solar panel kit itself is very easy. Pull it out of the case, pull the legs into place and set it down on the ground. That’s it for set-up, next it the wiring.

 

 

GlowTech-11The built-in charge controller already has “pigtails” wired into the system and is ready to go. You just plug the extension that is provided into the pigtail and you are ready to go. One goes to the battery, the other goes to the “load”.

The charge controller is a PWM version and that is good to see.

The instructions that are provided with the unit describe step-by-step how to hook up the two extension cables, one to the load, the other to the battery. It says to hook up the battery first, but I am not sure why that would make any difference.

I first tested my battery with the multimeter to establish a voltage baseline. The 16′ cables were OK moving the voltage/current/power to the battery but I am going to move to 10ga wire to improve overall voltage transfer.

Then I hooked up the battery cable to my 100aH AGM battery using battery clamps. I wasn’t impressed with the wiring from the charge controller to the battery. It was only 16 gauge wire in a rather thinly insulated jacket. I measured the voltage at the end of the extension cable and there was a .74 drop in voltage. I plan on replacing the wiring with all 10ga wire and Anderson Powerpoles.

Next came hooking up the load side of the charge controller. Again, lightweight wiring with 16 gauge wire and a voltage drop. I tested various options that came with the kit and I am satisfied with the overall operations. I think the efficiency will improve with the better wiring. I am also converting everything to Anderson Powerpoles to make it compatible with all my radio and power boxes.

GlowTech PWM Pulse Width Modulation charge controller for solar systemsThe charge controller is adequate, but that is about all from the outside “looks.”. But the overall electronic guts appear to be fully functional and plenty good enough for the job. I did the research and found the charge controller is a generic PWM charge controller made in China. The unit appears in many “private label” solar application. The information I was able to gather points to it being a decent little unit.

The PWM is not in the same category as the Morningstar SL-20L-12V but the Morningstar also cost $75. The biggest drawback to the charge controller is no temperature sensing. A good charge controller needs to adjust and compensate for different temperatures. So I am not sure where the efficiency is going to end-up and I have to figure out a way to test it. I may end-up running my battery to a certain discharge voltage and then charge it with the existing PWM charge controller and then rewire and retest with the Morningstar SL-20L-12V.

GlowTech - glow tech solar panels 30wThe solar panels themselves appear to be pretty decent quality and well built. They look like they can handle rain and dust pretty well. I will give them a good long exposure to the weather here in New Mexico and let you know how that goes.

However, there is a problem…I was getting far more than what I consider to safe DC voltage coming from the charge controller. It was coming into the battery at 19volts. I contacted the company selling the panels and they never responded to me. I am going to switch out the charge controller to a Morningstar SL20L12V. And that ups the cost of the system but then I will have a quality reliable charging system. But at an additional. I still think it was worth it.

I have bought an additional PWM charge controller exactly the same as the one on the GlowTech system. I am going to do some testing on it. I hope to find out what the issue is. I will post the results when I am done.

But here is the bottom line…this unit is perfectly adequate for the mission, very affordable at the $100 -$110 mark, and just an all-round great unit. It will recharge the 100 Ah AGM deep-cycle battery in an acceptable time-frame. And the Glowtech60 system is very affordable, well worth the money, and will surely come in handy when the power goes out.

 

Update: 7/24/2019 – This article is essentially for information only…and to give you ideas. These products are no longer available. I will try to get out another recommendation when I can.

 

 

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GoalZero Boulder 30w Solar Panel & Guardian Charge Controller

GoalZeroThe first large(r) solar system that I purchased was a GoalZero Boulder 30w Solar Panel with a GoalZero Guardian 12v Charge Controller. It came already packaged and ready to put into service, which I did on Day 1. That system has not disappointed me since.

I wanted a pre-configured solar charging system that was already tested, proven and ready-to-go right out of the box. I chose GoalZero solar equipment for this application, which required ease of storage and transportability.

“Rugged, durable, and rigid. The Boulder 30 Solar Panel is built with strong tempered glass and an aluminum frame for temporary or permanent installation.”

Boulder 30 Solar Panel General Info –
* Weight: 6.5 lbs (2.95 kg)
* Dimensions: 21 x 18 x 1 in (53 x 46 x 2.5 cm)Goal Zero Boulder 30w solar panels
* Certs: CE, FCC
* Optimal Operating Temp: 32-104 F (0-40 C)
* Warranty 12 months
* Rated Power: 30W
* Open Circuit Voltage: 18-20V
* Cell Type: Monocrystalline

Ports –
* Solar Port (blue, 8mm): 14-16V, up to 2.0A (30W max), not regulated
* Can be daisy chained together.

To control the charging I chose the GoalZero Guardian 12V Charge Controller 14002 Solar charger/controller unit.GoalZero 12V Charge Controller 14002

After buying the first panel and charger/controller I purchased a second Boulder 30 panel. The two panels can be daisy-chained together effectively doubling the charging rate to 60w. Then about 6 months later I purchased a second charger/controller.

That gives me the ability to charge two batteries at the same time or redundancy on the original charger/controller unit. Two is one, one is none.

In a pinch I can use the smaller 12V solar charger (Nomad) but they have a much slower charging rate than the larger Boulder panels. But they too can be daisy-chained to increase the charge rate.

There are lots of options for solar charging of batteries and alternatives to GoalZero. You can pick whatever system is best for you, just do your research, or find someone you trust and buy what they bought. GoalZero is kind of pricey but I believe they are a high-quality brand from everything I’ve seen.

Note: I understand that GoalZero is no longer producing the charger/controller units. You can still find them occasionally on eBay for about $45 – $55.00. Worth the money.

I did make a slight modification with my two Guardians. Everything is standard with the exception that I cut the batter alligator clip connection wire assembly.

And then installed 45amp Anderson Powerpoles. This gave the battery clamps the capability to still work as designed. But, it also gave the charge controller the ability to hook directly into my radio boxes and power poxes.

This is a great combination of GoalZero equipment that provides 30w solar power or combine it with additional Boulder 30 panels to beef up your power delivery. Yes, you can buy 30w panel systems cheaper, but you can’t get cheap and GoalZero quality.

A solid buy in my opinion.

Update: 7/24/2019 – This article is essentially for information only…and to give you ideas. These products are no longer available.  I no longer recommend GoalZero products. They tend to be a full generation behind in technology and they are way over priced in my opinion. GoalZero quality has slipped noticeably in the last couple of years. I will try and get a new recommendation out as soon as I can.

 

 

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