AA & AAA Battery Chargers

note: I started working on this article back in 2017 but due to the “crash” it got put on hold. I finished this article over the last couple of weeks.

What I was looking for in a AA & AAA battery charger was two-fold, ability to charge AA & AAA batteries; 1) using 110vAC power when it is available, 2) using 12vDC power for emergencies or field use. Of course, using the same actual charger, just changing the charger’s power supply. And the 12vDC option could come from a power box, solar charger, battery, vehicle accessory port, etc.

You may be asking why both voltages…legitimate question. I want the capability to charge my batteries under normal conditions and as quickly as possible…hence, 110vAC power capability. But, if the regular utility power goes out I want multiple ways to be able to charge my batteries; 1) using my portable Honda generator (110vAC), 2) 12vDC power available through car batteries, 3) my various portable power box, 4) solar panels.

“Redundancy” being a priority to me. The old “Two is one, one is none, three is a good start” mentality.

Mission Statement –

“Ability to charge standardized field operation batteries via 110vAC or 12vDC power.”

Requirements & Restrictions –
  1. Must be able to operate on 110vAC power for extended periods of time without damage to the unit or the batteries.
  2. Must have the capability to operate on 12vDC without modification to the unit.
  3. Must be able to charge AA and AAA rechargeable Ni-MH and Ni-CD batteries.
  4. Must have sufficient safety features to prevent damage to the batteries, the unit, or the area around the unit.
Test Units –
  • FrePow 8-slot
  • Tenergy TN160
  • Foxnovo F08
  • AccuPower IQ-338
  • BlueTech AV-1000
  • MaximalPower FC1000
  • Ansmann PL8
  • SunLabz SL00056

Each unit was tested against the Mission Statement, Requirements & Restrictions, and comparing features; price was not so much of an issue. Units were tested recharging batteries via 110vAC and 12vDC. The 12vDC test was done via a 110vAC -> 12vDC power supply to ensure no variation in power such as solar power fluctuations or 12vDC battery charge level or condition. The purpose of the testing was to test the charger unit itself not a solar panel / charger combination. I did test with a 12vDC solar panel test just to ensure compatibility and that it would in-fact work. These test units all ranged from being able to charge 4 batteries – 16 batteries.

FlePow –

No longer available – Testing results not included.

Tenergy TN160 –

Compact, sleek, and good looking unit. Nothing fancy about this unit and no frills or thrills. Both size batteries (AA &  AAA) were easy to insert and were held steady in the charger tray. Each charging station assessed the batteries individually and began charging within 5 – 6 seconds. The LCD screen was easy to read and made sense without any directions or instructions needed.

From the manufacturer:

  • 12 channels PWM switching fast charger with MUC control; accurate voltage detection ensures no over-charging and under-charging
  • 12 independent charging channels for individual charging and detection: AA & AAA, NIMH/ NICD can be mixed when charging. AA & AAA, NIMH/ NICD can be mixed when charging.
  • 8 hours safety timer ensures extra safety.
  • Over-heat, over-current, short-circuit, & reverse polarity protection, (mechanically) ensures that charger and batteries will not be damaged when users insert batteries with reversed polarity.
  • Large LCDs indicate charging status.
  • Charger comes with refresh function
  • Input: 100-240v AC (Works Everywhere in the World).
  • Suitable only for 1.2v AA/AAA NIMH/NICD batteries.

I really like the automatic protection built into this unit, especially the safety timer that shuts down the unit after 8-hours of operation. During testing the batteries never got hot and that is a really good thing. Heat is what damages batteries more than just about anything (operating environment) else. The unit won’t recognize damaged or fully discharged batteries which isn’t particularly good.

Foxnovo F08 –

This thing is a hunk of plastic and electronics, there is nothing sleek or compact to it. There is no fancy LCD screen to look at, simply a series of flashing status lights. When I was inserting the batteries (AA & AAA) it wasn’t the easiest thing to do. First off you have to move the spring-loaded negative contact manually to get each battery to seat in the charging cradle. And here is the stupid part…the positive contact is this little “nub” piece of metal. If you look at the positive contact on a battery it too is a little “nub” of metal. Try putting two little “nubs” together and see how that works for you! It was fairly easy to bump one battery while inserting another. Bumping a battery more than just a minimal amount and the positive “nub” contacts decontacted. Yes, decontacted is a word I made up. Once the batteries were all in-place they were fine.

From the manufacture:

  • Capable of charging 8 batteries of different sizes, types and capacities at the same time; Each of the eight battery slots charges independently
  • LCD indicators lights shows the charging process of every batteries
  • Automatically identifies Li-ion, Ni-MH and Ni-CD rechargeable batteries.
  • Automatically detects battery status and selects the appropriate voltage and charge mode. Automatically stops charging when complete
  • Come with a US-plug adapter for indoor use.
  • Adopts negative voltage control technology to improve charge efficiency.
  • Excellent features of heat dispersion and reverse polarity protection. Protect opposite connection and short circuit, 0 voltage alarms
  • Compatible with batteries: Li-ion 26650, 22650, 18650, 18500, 18490, 17670, 17650, 17500, 16340, 14500, 10440, Ni-MH and Ni-CD A, AA, AAA, C, SubC

Here’s where this unit is way cool…charging time. And no, there wasn’t any noticeable battery heat indicating that the higher charging rate was damaging the batteries.

And then there are additional cool features to this charger; 1) charges a long list of Li-ion batteries, 2) charges C, SubC, & D size batteries. That makes this unit considerably more versatile than the other units tested. If you are wondering about the Li-ion feature I can tell you that is will recharge the rechargeable version of the CR123A (RCR123A). The CR123A is a popular battery for flashlights and weapons’ optics.

The testing showed that the unit charged all the batteries of different brands and sizes in record time. It only took the unit a matter of 2 – 3 seconds to analyze the batteries current charge and begin the charging process. There is no fancy LED screen to indicate much of anything. There is a series of four lights that shows current charge. They flash to indicate that charging is taking place at a specific level (25%, 50%, 75%, & 100%). When the battery is fully charged all four yellow lights glow steady.

Periodically a blue light will flash in the upper right-hand corner on the face of the unit. I have absolutely no idea what that means. So you wonder why I didn’t refer to the instructions. Ah, there aren’t any. Yup, no instruction guide of any kind with the unit. I searched all over the Internet looking for a user guide and nothing. But, fortunately the unit is pretty simple to use…so instructions aren’t really needed.

AccuPower IQ-338 –

This unit is sleek, compact, and way more intelligent than me. Yeah, surprising…right? Seriously, this unit has a ton of options for you and your batteries. The batteries fit in this charger like a glove, very nice engineering. The LCD screen is easy to read and back-lit as well.

From the manufacturer:

  • Fast Charge Li-ion or NiMH/NiCad Rechargeable batteries including most common 18650 size.
  • Test Li-Ion & NiMH/NiCad cells for actual capacity.
  • Automatic selection of NiMH/NiCad or Li-ion chemistry cells.
  • For use with the following: NiMH/NiCad: A, AA, AAA, sub-C, C-baby size
  • Li-ion: 26650, 22650, 19650 (protected 18650) 18650, 17670, 18490, 17500, 17355, 16340 (RCR123A), 14500, 10440
  • With the new AccuPower IQ338 charge or test most round cell batteries. Automatic selection of NiMH/NiCad or Li-ion chemistry cells. Includes the most common 18650 cells, can accept cells up to 70mm in length. Easy to use, easy to program, informative display.
  • Four independent channels programmed individually.
  • Easy to read large Backlit LCD display.
  • Digitally displays battery information.
  • Adjustable charging rate from 300 to 1000 mA.
  • Three modes of operation:
    • Charge
    • Fast Test
    • Nor Test (Normal Test)
  • Delta Peak full charge detection for NiMH/NiCad cells.
  • 4.2V full charge for Li-ion cells. CC/CV charge profile.
  • 12V input powered and can be powered by an optional car adapter.
  • Worldwide voltage switching power supply.
  • Automatic detection of different battery type. NiMH/NiCad Vs Li-ion.
  • Thermal sensors to protect against overheat and overcharge.
  • USB charging socket. Supplies 5V 1000 mA.

So I figured out that this unit is actually a computer that also charges batteries. OK, on a more serious note, this is a great charger. However, it only has four slots for batteries. I wanted the ability to charge more batteries at one time than just four so I took some time and looked online to see if it has a bigger brother. It does, but the bigger brother is not the IC-338 with more slots, it appears to be a carbon copy of the Tenergy unit.

And unlike the Foxnovo unit, the AccuPower unit does come with instructions…very, very good instructions. It explains how to take advantage of each unit feature.

I like this unit, just wish it handled more batteries at one time. But…I really like this unit.

The latest version of this charger is the AccuPower IQ-338XL. The “XL” evidently added more battery size capability and higher charge rate which lowers the charge time.

BlueTech AV-1000 & MaximalPower FC1000 –

You might be wondering why I am grouping these two chargers together for review purposes…GREAT QUESTION!

Simple answer…they are the same unit other than a different name on them. Although there are two units being tested, I will refer to them as “unit” for the purposes of this article. I will only refer to the MaximalPower FC1000 unit since it is the only one of the two that is still readily available.

The unit solidly built, sleek, and compact. Good feel to it. The LCD was clear and easy to read.

From the manufacturer:

  • FC1000 Intelligent AA/AAA Charger and Capacity Tester with USB charging port
  • Battery charger for NiCd and NiMH AA and AAA rechargeable batteries
  • Features 4 function modes: charge, discharge, refresh, and test
  • Overheat-detection to prevent over-charging
  • 4 separate LCD displays for simultaneous readouts

The unit worked as stated in the description. I liked the fact that is displayed the individual “mAH” of each battery in the LCD display. It was also nice to have a USB charger as well, especially a 1A USB charger. Only being able to charge 4 batteries at one time was a drawback. Unfortunately I couldn’t get real excited about this charger.

Ansmann PL8 –

Nice basic “brick” recharger unit. Has overcharge protection but I didn’t see any smart overheat protection, but it does have a built-in time shutoff to help prevent overheating. The 500mA charging current helps charge your batteries quickly, but it completes the charging cycle in a “trickle” mode to help ease the potential heat buildup problem.

From the manufacturer:

  • For 1-8 AA/AAA (NiMH/NiCd) cells
  • Discharging of the batteries before charging is possible, Multi-coloured LED indicators show the battery status for each charging slot
  • Individual supervision of each cell, Multiple over-charging protection per cell and Automatic cut-off (-dV) & Trickle charging
  • Faulty cell detection / accidental alkaline insertion detection
  • Reverse polarity protection

Single use battery detection (i.e. alkaline batteries) prevents any chance you might accidentally try to charge the wrong types of batteries. There is a “discharge” capability to reset the battery’s memory to a fresh state. I like units with the more informative LCD displays, but this unit’s flashing light display of this charger unit gives you all the information you actually need. The USB charging port is a nice little extra.

Going back to the “trickle” charge feature. One of the nice things regarding this feature…self-discharge offset. You can leave the batteries in this charger and the trickle charge feature will keep them fully charged but not overcharge them. That will offset any self-discharge of your rechargeable batteries. And I really like that each charging port is individually monitored and each battery “smart charged” individually to its own capacity.

I would love this charger if it had 12vDC power capability but it only runs off 110vAC. And that gives it a “fail” compared to my mission statement. But, if you are looking for a 110vAC only unit…this is a great option.

SunLabz SL00056 (MOSL00056) –

This unit suspiciously looks a whole lot like the Tenergy TN160…with 4 additional battery bays.

From the manufacturer:

  • 16 INDEPENDENT CHARGING SLOTS – Allows you to mix and charge AA / AAA / NiCD / NiMH 1.2v rechargeable batteries.
  • SMART AND SAFE – Accurate voltage detection ensures no over-charging and under-charging.
  • Reverse polarity protection and 8-hour shut-off timer ensures extra safety.
  • LIGHTED LCD DISPLAY – Intelligently shows the charging status of each rechargeable battery.
  • 1 YEAR WARRANTY
  • SAFETY WARNING: The charger should not be plugged into an outlet with batteries for extended periods of time to prevent damage. Remove the charger from the outlet once the batteries are charged and use the recommended charging times in the manual.

Each battery is charged individually based on its own state of charge. There is “discharge” capability to reset the battery’s memory to a fresh state. Nice to clear battery memory and revitalize batteries.

I don’t like that you can’t leave the charger plugged in with batteries in charger. So this tells me there is no overheat protection…and the potential for battery damage. I don’t like that this charger gets batteries fairly hot. As long as you monitor the charging process this is a decent no-frills charger. And it charges 16 batteries at once!

Comparison Chart –

Summary –

Let’s clear up one thing right off the bat…The FlePow and the Tenergy chargers are made by the same company in China, SunLabz.. SunLabz simply does what’s called “private label” manufacturing. In addition to SunLabz selling their own chargers they market them to other companies such as Tenergy who then sell them under their brand.

The ability to charge the other types and sizes of batteries could prove to be a real benefit in long-term emergencies and disasters. In terms of grid-down, the ability to recharge the rechargeable CR123a batteries (RCA123A) could prove really valuable. It should be noted that I am NOT a proponent of the CR123a batteries (rechargeable or standard), I only use and recommend AA & AAA batteries.

I can’t recommend the FlePow unit because it is no loner readily available.

I can’t recommend the Foxnovo unit, it simply cooks the batteries with too much heat and is no longer readily available.

I don’t recommend the Maximal unit because…well, I just couldn’t get excited about it…something just seemed off about it.

The only reason I don’t recommend the Ansmann unit is it doesn’t have a 12vDC power option. If I was only going to use AC power this would be my #1 choice.

I liked the Tenergy unit but it is a “private label” charger unit made by SunLabz. This is a unit I use and would buy again. And yes, I put the SunLabz unit in this same category. These are not high-end chargers…but solid and get the job done.

The hands-down winner is the AccuPower IQ-338 unit!! But, I would NOT buy it. I would buy the newer version AccuPower IQ-338XL to take advantage of more battery options, etc. The only drawback is the number of batteries it charges at one time…4. But this is simply the best charger…my “go to” charger.

However………….if I was only going to use AA & AAA and an occasional C battery…AND I needed to charge more than 4 batteries I would go with the AccuPower IQ-312. That bad boy can charge up to 12 batteries at one time. It is also 4.7 star rated on Amazon. If I wanted a 16 bay charger for AA & AAA batteries and an occasional 9v I wouldn’t hesitate to go with the AccuPower IQ216.

So I own and use the Tenergy charger, the AccuPower, and the HiTech IC1012. I didn’t test/include the HiTech IC1012 in this article because the technology is 7 years old and the unit is no longer available.

Are there other good units out there? Yup! Should you buy any of them? No idea! I can only tell you my experience and what I use…and I am happy with my choices…they are all still working and doing a good job.


If you are interested in buying any of the chargers I use I will provide the links to Amazon. If you click on the link I provide I might make 1% or 2% as a finder’s fee from Amazon. Hey, every little bit helps in this day and age. If you don’t use the link that’s no issue. I hope you find that battery charger that you need and that it serves you well.

AccuPower IQ-338 $47.24 <click here to buy on Amazon>

AccuPower IQ-338XL $53.45 <click here to buy on Amazon>

AccuPower IQ-312 $37.97 <click here to buy on Amazon>

AccuPower IQ216 $32.30 <click here to buy on Amazon>

Tenergy TN160 $47.99 <click here to buy on Amazon> (you also get 12 Premium Tenergy AA rechargeable batteries)

SunLabz SL00056 $44.99 <click here to buy on Amazon>

 

 

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FAQ – 3/14/2020 (EMP & Radios)

  • How do you “test” your EMP protection for effectiveness? I have seen other people place a cell phone inside their faraday cage and try calling the phone. With the cellular signal disrupted they claim this as evidence that it would also stop an EMP. While I’m not an expert, I don’t feel the power coming from a cell tower is anywhere close to the kind of electromagnetic signal that would be produced from even a small man-made source or from a solar flare. Do you or the person you consulted regarding this project have any other method?
    What thoughts do you have (if any) regarding steel mesh/screen? I have seen military installations (Co Springs) that line the inside of some rooms. I have also seen products like laptop cases and rucksacks with a copper or steel mesh inner lining impregnated inside a synthetic material so objects couldn’t accidentally touch the metal.

As stated in the article I test it with an FM radio. My test suggestion appears in Part #1. Testing with a cell phone is an option. But, cell phones operate on a far different frequency than an FM radio. It is all about “frequency”…so try it with a cell phone and an FM radio.

  • Thanks for the instruction but my question is – I use the radio at least once or twice a week so I can’t wrap it up and put it away, just in case. And it’s unlikely that we’ll get an announcement in time enough to wrap the radio and other gadgets, so what do I do?

Don’t worry about your “daily radio”…buy a couple extra small handhelds, maybe a used mobile, and prepare those units for an EMP. The Baofeng radios are very inexpensive and used mobile radios can he had cheap as well. Look at it as “insurance”…like food storage. Another thought…I have storage cases for my radios, I will also use them for any serious move I make. They are SKB i-series cases; similar to Pelican cases. You could store them in those cases which are easy to access. Then store those boxes in a Job Box (or something similar) that you feel has a really good contact seal to it.

  • Is there a “mil spec” that covers some of this?

Yes, (mil-std-1310h (navy)) SHIPBOARD BONDING, GROUNDING, AND OTHER TECHNIQUES FOR ELECTROMAGNETIC COMPATIBILITY, ELECTROMAGNETIC PULSE (EMP) MITIGATION, AND SAFETY. You can download the PDF by <clicking here MIL-STD-1310H>

 

Ask me a question …

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Thank you for your response. ✨





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Protecting your Radio from an EMP: Part #2

note: article first appeared in May 2016.

This is the second article in a two-part series cover the subject of how to protect your radio from an EMP strike. In the first article I went over material regarding what an EMP strike really is and how to view it as a “risk” to be mitigated. I then went into the real-life aspect of it, the economic affect, and touched on the viability of Faraday Cages. I then went into detail regarding my solution. But I teased you into coming back to read this article.

If you haven’t read the first article you should, it will help this article make a lot more sense.

< Click here to read the first article >

Here are the steps to my solution –

(Yeah, yeah, yeah…I miss-spelled “foil” and used “fail”. Sorry about that…but now you know what I mean. No, I didn’t want to take the time to go back and correct the wording on the graphic.)

(Yeah, yeah…more misspelling. “You” vs. “Your”  Get over it…I am giving you a lesson in EMP protection not helping you learn to spell….obviously).

(No! You are not missing a step…that was me. I skipped a number while producing the graphics. There is no Step #17. But, so I can save face…Step #17: Review your “package” to ensure you’ve done a quality job so far.)

Summary –

The whole concept is to insulate the gadget from any electrical charge. And that is accomplished two ways –

  1. Provide insulating material that keeps electrical charge away from the gadget…and keeps the outer metal layer(s) from contacting the radio.
  2. Using multiple metal shells to redirect (i.e. disperse) electrical charges away from the gadget.

The bubble wrap is used as the insulating material. That keeps the gadget from contacting anything metal. Then the aluminum foil is used to disperse the electrical charges around and away from the gadget. Multiple layers reduces the risk of “gaps” in the protection…and to a lesser degree helps cover more frequencies due to more layers.

The concept of the aluminum foil is very similar to that of your car or airplane being hit with electricity. It is not the car’s rubber tires keeping you from being electrocuted. It is the metal exterior of the vehicle or airplane absorbing the electrical charge and redirecting it (dispersing it) around the entire shell of the vehicle vs. having the electricity pass through the vehicle or airplane and hurting you.

The reason that multiple layers of bubble wrap and aluminum foil is used is simple…improving the likelihood of success. If a single layer was used = low likelihood of success. Three layers of aluminum foil = much higher likelihood of success. Add in the metal trash can exterior for a forth layer = way higher likelihood of success. You also have six layers of bubble wrap plus the 1.75″ of Styrofoam cooler and you have a whole lot of insulating material.

For the average person that is about as good as it is realistically going to get. Will it work? I already answered that, “I don’t know.” I think the likelihood of gadget survival is very, very high. But, even military grade “hardening” of their sensitive electronics may fail based on a number of unknowns and other criteria. There are too many factors that play into exactly how an EMP strike might affect our country…and your electronics.

But, I can tell you this…You gadgets won’t survive if you do nothing. Following my solution gives you a pretty dang good chance of ending up with a working radio post-EMP strike.

Good luck and post question and comments!

Note #1 – I am not worried about the antenna itself very much. There are no electronics in the actual antenna. But for caution’s sake, I would use a single layer of bubble wrap and a layer of foil. Throw that package in the Styrofoam cooler with the packages of radios.

Note #2 – I use double layers of aluminum foil to reduce/eliminate the chances of a gap in the metal layer. Same is true for double layers of bubble wrap.

Note #3 – No US Post Office supplies were mis-used or destroyed in this project. Any use, or resemblance of use, was fictitious. All names were changed to protect the innocent. I later re-used the UPSP supplies for their intended purposes.

Note #4 – DO NOT ground the trash can. If you ground it, the electricity will try to take the shortest path between the strike impact and the point where the ground is attached to the can/earth. That could mean that the electricity would pass through the can vs. dispersing around the can. Passing through the can might mean passing through your gadget.

Note #5 – Protect the batteries as you would the radio. Treat them the same way. However, try to make them a little easier to get to. You will want to charge them up at last twice a year. Failure to top off their charge may result in battery failure.

 

 

 

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Protecting your Radio from an EMP: Part #1

note: article first appeared in May 2016.

So what about the EMP thing?

Is it for real? Can it affect your handheld radio? Can you protect your radio from an EMP?

Before I get into all of that, remember, I look at “threats” as “risks.” And I then look at all of it as “risk mitigation”. The level of risk is judged based on probability of the risk actually occurring and severity of what the aftermath looks like. I look at an EMP strike the same way…a risk to be calculated and mitigated.

Probability –

I see the risk of us being hit by a nuclear weapon that generates an EMP as low, very low actually. The reason I give it such a low probability is the attacker’s fear of retaliation. Russia and China have no desire to exchange a nuclear strike with us. Iran would probably love to but they aren’t ready for that…yet. Pakistan probably isn’t too far behind Iran but they are maintaining a resemblance of normal behavior. North Korea, well, their leadership are complete nuts jobs in that country. I don’t expect North Korea to actually launch a nuke at us, but you never know with them.

So based on all of that, I see the probability as pretty dang low. However, 20 years ago I would have given it a zero chance. 10 years ago, slightly more than zero. When Iran did the nuke deal with Obozo I believe Iran’s potential use of a nuke against another country went to 100%. Their use of a nuke against us maybe 50%…against Israel is 100% but only when Iran is ready.

And then there is the wildcard…our missile protection system. Can we stop/defeat a missile that is EMP capable from reaching us? Yes…for the most part…but, there is no guarantee…and it depends on how many missiles are inbound over a given period of time and from what directions..

So now I have the probability rating “on the chart.”

Severity –

Here is where it could get ugly. If anyone launches a nuke at us and it actually detonates on US soil, it will be devastating. It will be the blow that negates our super-power status. If we are hit, and we don’t hit back. we will be re-categorized to the same group that includes France, England, Italy…maybe worse. If we are hit and we hit back, then we can expect WWIII. And should that happen, an EMP is the least of our problems.

So let’s look at the severity if it is just an EMP strike against the US. By the way, it would be more along the lines of North Korea going rogue and hitting us without China telling them to. However, there is a potential scenario where China would tell them to hit us with an EMP just to weaken us and test out retaliation resolve. China could then deny involvement and avoid retaliation.

Whatever the reason we would be hit, the outcome would be very damaging. The damage would be two-fold. 1) The actual direct result damage to infrastructure, 2) the economic fallout.

The economic damage would be far worse than the direct damage. The stock markets would crash, the economy would nose dive, and the dollar would be become worthless as a world reserve currency, And all of that would transpire very quickly. It would be Economic Armageddon for a while. Mostly due to banking be out of business. Yeah, completely out of business. Modern banking is all computer based with that information being transferred between customers and banks, banks and businesses, banks and banks, etc. And all entirely by electronics. An EMP would fry most large-scale electronic systems, including telecommunications.

The direct damage is a little less clear. EMP damage is directly affected by a few things:

  1. The size of the weapon as described by “megatons”
  2. The altitude above the surface
  3. The electronic/electric system relative location to the blast area

The absolute worse location would be directly under the atmospheric blast. As the zone expanded outward, the impact would lessen. But, that would be in direct relation to the size of the detonated weapon. The bigger the weapon, the larger the affected area. However, the further away from the blast you were, the more diminished the impact would be. Finally, the closer the detonation to the earth’s surface the smaller affected area as well.

So, for this discussion we are talking about an EMP strike that will affect you with the Electromagnetic Pulse but won’t fry you into a gooey mess of melted skin, muscle, and bone.

Can you properly prepare for such a strike ensuring your radios make it through in operating condition?

Well, I honestly can’t answer that question. Yeah, bummer, I know. And realistically, no one can give a 100% sure answer to that question either. At least not honestly. Why? Because it hasn’t actually happened anywhere so there is no historical perspective. Sure, there have been experiments and endless computer simulations…but it hasn’t actually occurred so even the best scientists don’t know for sure what an actual strike would look like. If someone tells you they have a 100% guaranteed solution they are BS’ing you.

But, let’s remember what you are actually protecting against…

Real-Life EMP –

I had the opportunity to talk to a 40 year expert that worked for Motorola and was a professor of electronics at a major university. We discussed the EMP potential. He explained to me that all their testing was different than the hype and scare that we hear about in the media and read about in the books.

If electronics weren’t protected they usually got wiped out. But, they also discovered that protecting the delicate electronics wasn’t all that difficult. They found the concept was to direct the energy of the pulse around the electronic gadget not allowing any of the energy to come in contact with the guts inside the piece of equipment.

When I asked him how difficult it was, he chuckled and said, “Not very.” He told me that placing electronics in a metal box on insulated material should be just fine.

To me the operative word was “should.”

He said there was no way to conclusively say what kind of metal box worked all the time. And the reason is the EMP pulse itself. The energy flows through the air at different frequencies. The key was to block that specific frequency of energy. And he also told me that there couldn’t be any gaps in the metal box, a tight seal wsa paramount.

Then he said it was pretty simple to test. He said take an FM radio, tune it to a clearly heard station, and turn the volume up. Then place it in your metal box on insulated material. Slowly start to close the lid. If the radio reception died away and you could no longer hear the radio then the box was blocking the energy frequency of most EMP pulses.

He did qualify that by saying that to the best of their knowledge at that time EMP, energy pulse frequencies were roughly that of FM stations. And that is why if you could block the FM reception, you could block the pulse energy. And technically you weren’t “blocking” the energy pulse. The metal box was moving the energy pulse around the outside via the conductive metal not allowing the energy to come into contact with the radio’s antenna.

He also said it would be a good idea to remove the battery and the antenna. That would further assist in keeping the energy out of the radio since both of those items attracted energy. We talked about wrapping the radio in a layer of insulation and he said it would help if there were no gaps.

Faraday Cages –

There is a lot of talk, as well as a lot of hype, about Faraday Cages. I have read countless stories and articles about different version and options of a Faraday Cage. Everything from simple chicken wire to a box made from an old microwave. Some have even talked about making their house or bunker a Faraday Cage itself by using cooper mesh, etc. wrapped around the entire structure.

Well, I just don’t get it! Yes, the theory is supposed to be sound, and is supposed to work just fine. Some “experts” have talked about the practicality of Faraday Cages and that they will work perfectly to protect your gear. Some of the written stuff out there sounds really, really impressive. But, and I don’t know how to put this nicely, but…I just don’t trust them to have the prefect solution.

Here’s what I mean…The concept is to move the surge of power that is coming in on a range of frequencies, around the electronic gadget, without any of the power actually contacting the gadget itself. So do you want a mesh with a bunch of holes/gaps protecting the gadget…or solid metal with no holes or gaps?

Yeah, I know…the electromagnetic energy can flow around mesh just fine. But, what if just one of those gaps in the mesh allows the energy to come into contact with the gadget? You’re screwed. And ever get a quote for a house covered in copper mesh????

To me, it makes much more sense for a solid layer of metal to protect the gadget that has no holes in its protective cover combined with an insulating layer to protect the metal outer layer from contacting the gadget. My person, the real-life expert, also promotes that “solid “alternative. Then it dawned on me that during my days in the Navy I served on-board an aircraft carrier. And on that carrier were a variety of jets; bombers and fighters. One day I noticed that the canopies of those jets had a faint gold coloring to them. I asked one of the airman what that was all about. He explained to me that is was actually “gold.” It was so thin it was transparent like sunglasses. But the gold protected the pilot from radar microwaves.

And what are microwaves? Energy. Energy pulsed out on specific frequencies. Just like an EMP pulse of energy. Bingo!

My Solution –

After talking with my “expert” who actually worked in the field and had researched EMPs, and then drawing on my Navy experience, I went into research mode big time. Bottom line is two-fold:

  1. Insulate the gadget from energy pulses reaching the gadget.
  2. Deflect (i.e. move) the energy around the gadget vs. through it.

So, based on all of the above, here is my step-by-step solution:

Hey, for Steps 2 – 27 you gotta read the next article!  It will be posted tomorrow.

 


Related Articles:

 

 

 

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How Fast Could You Leave?

note: article first appeared in March 2016

So here’s what I am thinking…Something happens, anything, doesn’t matter really. The question stands…How fast could you leave your house and be prepared to do whatever was required of you?

Yeah, I know, you want to ask me, “Prepared for what?” I am saying, it doesn’t matter. I am asking you, “How long would it take you to leave your house and be prepared to do whatever was required of you?”

Now, if you can’t answer the question, then you aren’t prepared enough…not even close. Yes, it is a fair question, and I believe it is a fair observation to say that if you can’t answer the question, or you have lots of trouble answering it directly, then you aren’t really prepared enough.

Here’s what I am getting at…If I had to leave the house “prepared” I could do it in about 3 – 5 minutes. I could handle all of the top threats/risks associated with emergencies, disasters, and grid-down incidents for 45 – 90 days minimum. Probably a lot more if I knew I had to stretch it out. Yes, I am serious about that!

We have two basic locations for those preparedness items we would take. They are grouped according to “perishable” and “non-perishable” stuff. While the food that is ready is really non-perishable, it is food and it lasts much longer in a more climate controlled environment so it is in the house. The “gear” I consider non-perishable so it is stored in the garage, with the exception of guns.

The food, including heirloom seed packets, is located in the kitchen right next to the door that goes into the garage. The gear that is located in the garage is next to the large double-car garage door. Both locations are easily accessed, nothing restricting access, and can be reached with minimal effort if you know what you are doing.

There are total of four cases of six #10 cans each can are all freeze dried foods, plus two 6gal plastic buckets of freeze dried food pouches. Then a single 2gal plastic bucket of seeds. In the garage there are four large totes and six small totes that make-up my primary GOOD BOB gear. All of that gear mitigates all, yes all, of the threats/risk categories for incidents. And I can have all of that loaded correctly in the bed of my pick-up or my wife’s SUV within a few minutes, 5 mins tops. If I had to just throw it in the vehicles I can do that too, so I could probably reduce it to 2 minutes if I really hustled or had my wife’s help and I wasn’t worried about it being neatly packed.

In the event that I had more time I could then go to my secondary totes and food boxes. And I won’t bore you to death on the details but the secondary totoes would significantly increase my survival time and comfort level.

But, why the heck am I even asking you this question and giving you my example?

Because I want to think about your situation and the time it would take for you to be mobile in a crisis situation.

Yes, of course you could shelter in place if needed and/or it was your only option, we all know that. But I was wanting to prompt you about “having” to leave in a hurry…could you do it and take your basic preps with you?

And this is really not about the time required, the vehicle, or anything along those lines. This “prompt” is about organization more than anything. Are you organized enough to get your food and gear out the door quickly if you needed to?

Here is one of the problems I see with preppers…mostly prepper organization is not properly thought out. Yeah, “properly” being the operative word here. They may be organized, however, the method they use may well not be a practical methodology for many situations.

I have seen incredibly organized preppers while visiting their homes. I have been seriously impressed many times by the sheer volume of food and gear. But, I have seldom, almost never, seen their preps organized in such a fashion to allow for graduated movement of their gear and food using a priority methodology.

Meaning, they can take a limited number of containers and still have a wide variety of what they need. Mostly I see box after box of wheat, then box after box of oats. And that goes on and on, even a whole box full of candles…but not a single match in the box of candles or a can opener in any case of food.

What I want to propose to you is a reorganizing of food and gear. Place a diet balanced variety of food in a couple of boxes or totes or buckets. That provides you with a decent quantity and variety of food…even if you can only grab that one or two boxes before you have to leave. Same is true for gear. Have a few primary containers with gear in each that provides for the most basic of needs should you have to leave your home.

Where I want you to end up, your goal, my leader’s intent, is the ability to leave your home in minimal time, under 10 minutes, and have enough of your food and gear to get by on. Sure, if you have plenty of advanced notice, and a large enough vehicle, you can take it all, and that is the ideal situation. But, emergency incidents are rarely “ideal.”

Please Read: Food Storage Methodology

 

 


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FAQ – 4/17/2020 (COVID-19)

  • In your last SitRep you mentioned potential for violence and protests, are they really that widespread and how likely is the violence?

 

 

Protests have taken place within the last week:

      • Lansing, Michigan
      • Frankfort, Kentucky
      • Raleigh, North Carolina
      • Columbus, Ohio
      • Albany, New York
      • Bremerton, Washington

Protests are planned this week for:

      • California
      • Idaho
      • Oregon
      • Texas

And those are only the ones I know about. And that is a lot of protesting in the last week…with more planned. With each protest there is an increase in frustration and stress. Eventually that will end up in violence. Either some wingnut will use a protest to go violent to stir the next revolution, a cop will lose it and beat on a protestor, or some fringe element will infiltrate the protest and spark violence simply because that is what they believe in. But, you don’t get that many people in that many areas all protesting the same issue -overreach of government authority- without it almost certainly getting violent.

  • In your SitRep – 4/6/2020you talked about rising unemployment, are people going back to work now or is unemployment getting worse?

In the last 4 weeks 22,000,000 people filed for unemployment. In Michigan…over 1/4 of the state’s workforce is recently unemployed…and their unemployment benefit system broke down. In AZ they raised unemployment benefit by $200 per week. Many people can now make more money unemployed than employed. You do the math on that one.

  • You’ve done Hoax Alerts and written about COVID-19 death rates being fake, what is going on now, better data or worse fakes?

An article came out just this morning, it states:

  1. “Epidemiologists have estimated there are 5 to 10 people with undetected infections for every confirmed case.” That means mortality rates are 1/5th to 1/10th as bad as current published numbers. In other word…today’s reported numbers are 671,000 cases and 33,000 deaths. That would indicate a 4.9% mortality rate. However, most epidemiologists are saying that 5 – 10 people actually have COVID-19 for every reported/confirmed case. So that would mean that the number of cases is actually 3.4million – 6.7million. Using the same death rate would put the mortality rate at .9 %(point 9%) – .5% (point 5%). That would be substantially lower than the mortality rate being promoted now by those who are ignorant.
  2. “We know how many people are dying, but we don’t know how many people are infected.” That means there is not enough testing to confirm who actually has COVID-19 or not. A lot of the testing is postmortem not actually people reporting symptoms. Many people have COVID-19 and show no symptoms. And there are health officials simply stating a person has COVID-19 when they have not been tested.
  3. “New York City increased its death count by more than 3,700 on Tuesday, after officials said they were now including people who had never tested positive for the virus but were presumed to have died of it.” That means exactly what it says…NYC is just one example…that death certificates are now showing COVID-19 as cause of death even if they were never tested for COVID-19. If someone simply thinks the victim had COVID-19 that is now listed as the cause of death.

So we know for a fact that the numbers -ALL numbers- associated with COVID-19 are fake, false, hoaxes…whatever you want to call it…they are NOT accurate. And that is stone cold FACT!

And honestly I don’t think we will ever know the actual truth when it comes to accurate numbers. All the numbers will be estimates or based on models.

 

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Cloning your Baofeng UV-5RA

note: article first appeared in December 2015

The ability to clone radios is a nice feature and can be very advantageous in the field. While there are benefits, there are some limitations.

But, you may be asking, “Why do you need to clone a radio anyways?”

And that my friend is a good question, maybe even a great one. If you are serious about the UV-5RA radio for your emergency communications you probably already own them and have the RT Systems software to program them. So why not just program a radio vs. clone a radio?

The only response I have to that is, “What if you don’t have a computer available to program a radio?”

Yup, you get together with a neighboring self-reliance group and need to make your radios talk to each other for a mission. You are using the AHTrimble standard channel plan, but the other group is a little backwards and are not using it. They like your plan and want to have the same frequencies and channels as yours. Now what?

We will assume that they are savvy enough to also be using the Baofeng UV-5RA (or compatible), so cloning will be no problem. You simply whip out your cloning cable and “BINGO!” you are ready to go.

Or, you may be in the field with your group. You have to make a programming change in the CommPlan for a tactical reason. Once the change is decided upon everyone can sit down and reprogram their radios to match the new CommPlan. Or, the radio guru (Comm Unit Leader) can change his radio and then clone everyone’s radio within a couple minutes vs. an hour of programming.

Whatever the reason, having the ability to clone radios is a high-value feature.

With the Baofeng UV-5RA radio there are only a couple of limitations to positively ensure cloning compatibility; 1) both radios should be UV-5RA model radios, 2) both radios should have BFB297 firmware or above.

NOTE #1: The UV-5RA and the UV-5MHP are not compatible when it comes to cloning. They will not clone.

NOTE #2: Only channel information will be cloned. The general radio menu options will not transfer to the receiving radio.

The cloning process is pretty simple and straightforward. Making sure you get it right is important.

There are two radios involved; 1) the sending radio (the radio that holds the programming information your wish to send to another radio), 2) the receiving radio (the radio that will receive the programming information and will “look like” the sending radio when the cloning process is over).

In the steps below the sending radio is on the left, the receiving radio is on the right.

So here are the cloning steps:Cloning baofeng UV-5RA Radios

  1. Turn both radios off.

 

  1. CloningRadios-006With both radios off, plug the cloning cable into the receiving radio’s accessory jack. Ensure that the plug is seated firmly.
  1. With both radios off, plug the other end of the cloning cable into the radio’s accessory jack.

 

  1. TCloningRadios-007urn on the receiving radio.

 

 

 

 

 

Cloning baofeng uv-5ra Radios

  1. On the sending radio depress the “moni” key and hold. Turn on the sending radio.CloningRadios-005
    • The sending radio will display “coping” on the display screen and the status LED light will flash red.
    • Once the status LED light begins to flash red you no longer have to keep the “moni” key depressed.
    • The receiving radio’s status LED light will flash green.

 

  1. When the cloning process is complete both radios’ status LED lights will stop flashing and both radios will momentarily turn off and then back on.
  1. Turn both radios off and unplug the cloning cable.

The radios are now ready to be used.

I’ve tested two different cloning cables, both performed 100% perfectly. Why? Because they are the same cable. So, why did I buy two different ones? Well, one was advertised under the name Tenq and the other was an AnyTone cable.

Cloning Cable for Baofeng UV-5R radioNote: The cloning cable sold by Powerwerx is the same cable as well.

When they arrived I looked them over closely and they are the same cable. Both are probably made in China at the same factory and then sold to US suppliers for private label. There was one difference, $9.99 vs. $13.95. The Amazon link to the Tenq cable, $9.99 is below…

Amazon - Tenq boafeng uv-5r Cloning Cable

 

 

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SitRep – 4/16/2020

This a very focused SitRep today…I almost made it an Immediate Action Warning but decided against that move. Reason? No specific action to be taken. Well, almost none. I will explain more in the Summary. This will be a very narrowly focused SitRep.

Authoritarianism & Draconian Actions & Potential for Violence

We all heard about Rhode Island and Delaware state troopers pulling over out-of-state drivers in regards to violations of COVID-19 Executive Orders. We’ve seen that Pennsylvania troopers are issuing tickets for stay-at-home violations. And of course California is simply off the charts for their enforcement actions. But it is now growing exponentially worse…

New Mexico: Within the last two weeks the ultra-liberal Governor of New Mexico clamped down her state. She imposed extreme Executive Orders (EO) controlling the state’s population. New Mexico Governor Michelle Lujan Grisham comes from a strong political family dynasty in New Mexico. Her family has been running New Mexico in one form or another for generations. Grisham herself is a strong abortion supporter, a radical environmentalist, and anti-gun extremist. She was also caught in the Azerbaijan scandal shortly after her election to Congress. She was caught accepting travel funding, money, and gifts from the radical Muslim authoritarian government of Azerbaijan.

Grisham’s EOs went far beyond any Constitutional authority she actually has. First she shut down gun shops…not to control the spread of COVID-19, but to stop guns going into the hands of those that were worried about the potential of coming violence…those who wished to protect their families. Her state troopers literally forced the closure of gun shops. Next she forced general merchandise stores to rope off areas of their stores that sold “non-essential” goods. Then this past week her state trooper thugs showed up at farm and ranch supply stores and ordered them closed as well. The store employees and owners were threatened with arrest if they refused to comply with the demands of law enforcement.

Kentucky: Last week the leftist Governor of Kentucky ordered church’s to cease and desist, stopping church members from meeting together. The C&D Order was given just before Easter to stop Christians from celebrating Easter. Now, you might think it is coincidental…it’s not. Andy Beshear (63st Governor of Kentucky) is the son of Steve Beshear (61st Governor of Kentucky). Steve Beshear is a rabid anti-Christian and proved that while he was Attorney General of Kentucky. He started his campaign against Christians almost immediately after his election as Attorney General of Kentucky decades ago. One of his first attacks was forcing the removal of the Ten Commandments from public schools. Back to the current Governor, his son Andy. After Andy was elected Attorney General of Kentucky he immediately began attacking the then republican governor in the court system…using public taxpayer funds to unseat his political rival. So we have an autocratic political family, who have proven themselves to be anti-Christians, using taxpayer money for their own personal benefit, actually attacking Christians…and the Constitution’s Freedom of Religion!

“Attack”…how? Not only did Andy issue the EO banning Christians from meeting, he ordered his jack-booted state troopers to conduct surveillance operations of churches on Easter Sunday. They were to record license plate information, use that information to obtain names and addresses of the vehicle owners, and turn that information over to the State Health Department. Then the health department personnel will contact each person and issue a 14-day quarantine order. This was all verified by Breitbart news. And it actually happened according to USA Today!  Not only that, there were nails, tacks, and screws found at church parking lot entrances. Did the cops do that? Probably not. But, the Governor’s influence and anti-Christian attacks against Christians and churches sure motivated someone to attack Christians.

Michigan: Michigan is one of those states that is an oxymoron. On one hand it is an extremely liberal/progressive state. But, then you have a sizable militia presence as well…and they are not on the political left to be sure. So who is the Governor of Michigan who issued the extremely strict authoritarian stay-at-home order? Governor Gretchen Whitmer who is a strong abortion advocate, rabid anti-Trumper, and huge tax advocate. And yet another member of a very strong state political family dynasty…an autocrat.

A protest yesterday in the state’s capital called ‘Operation Gridlock’ was organized by rights advocates in opposition to her authoritarianism. Of particular note brought up by the protest organizers…”heart surgeries are banned as non-essential, but abortion clinics remain open” and Easter was cancelled by the Governor of Michigan. What was the Governor’s reaction to the protest…she threatened even stronger enforcement of existing orders…and imposing new, even stronger orders restricting citizens travel/movement and right to assemble. Now that is a perfect, to the letter perfect, example of a dictatorial leader.

And the list goes on and on…

We have all heard the nightmare stories from the leftist states along the east and west coasts. Those radical authoritarian steps taken to shut down rights, liberties, and freedoms of those states’ citizens. But, we are seeing more and more of those actions taking place…even in the mid-west. In every instance of these radical Draconian measures that I have investigated, I’ve seen that those politicians behind the orders are radical leftists. And I mean the most radical of these left-wing extremists and/or Progressives. They are drunk with their own power…and now it is turning oh so obvious what they are doing and it is showing signs of the beginning of violence…politically motivated violence.

Summary –

We are nearing a boiling point…a tipping point…whatever you want to call it…it is getting very close. We’ve are seeing more and more criminal activity, we are seeing more and more violence, and now we are seeing protests springing up against all of this uncalled for restriction of rights, liberties, and freedoms. We are seeing our economy destroyed every single day, massive unemployment, massive new government debt, food bank lines growing longer, food supply chain shortages, vegetable seed shortages, manufacturing grinding to a halt, and the largest transfer of wealth in the history of this country. And you have to ask yourself…How much longer till the explosion happens?

And when/if that explosions takes place it will be unrealistic in every sense of the word! And it is getting closer every single day. And that isn’t happening by accident. Political and other subversive power-players are moving us ever closer to the “explosion” by plan and design. Why?

When there is fear, panic, violence, unrest, and massive threats of every kind…people will DEMAND that it be stopped, fixed, eliminated. And government will be all too happy to oblige…and they will “fix” it. But the cure, or fix, will be kill any last vestiges of the Constitution, rights, liberties, freedoms, or the hope of any. The governments’ cure for what is developing will be authoritarianism. And that will lead to totalitarianism.

Back on 4/11 in my SitRep I spoke of the economy crashing in 4 – 12 weeks. I still hold that to be the probable case. Now I am seeing a better than 50/50 chance of our Constitutional Republic crashing, in conjunction with or independent of the economic crash. And that crash could occur within 3 – 9 months. Yes, I just said we could well see the destruction of the United States as we know it within 3 – 9 months…the probability is now better than 50/50!

What can you do?

Go back and read the articles, especially the previous SitReps, I lay out exactly what to do. Actually, this entire site is designed for, and all the articles written for, just such grid-down events. It is up to you to educate yourself or not. I suggest you do…and then plan accordingly.

Plan for a dister, emergency or grid-down now.What should you plan to do? The short answer is…the GOAL should be to survive and thrive. How you do that is entirely up to you…your PLAN.

Each person, each family, each congregation, each community is different…so should the plan be different. But, I suggest you get started…quickly.

 

 

 


Read my Immediate Action Warning concerning violence (click here)

Read all my COVID-19 articles (click here)

 

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Running a Baofeng UV-5RA Radio on AAA & AA Batteries

Batteries - Energizer Sucknote: article first appeared September 2015

I’ve never seen anything so conclusive in all my testing of gear. I mean it was crystal freaking clear what the outcome is. Here’s the short of it:

  • Don’t try to run your Baofeng UV-5R on AAA batteries. It just doesn’t work out well whether rechargeable batteries or high-quality alkaline batteries…it just doesn’t work. In three separate tests I never got more than 1.5 hours of radio run-time out of the Energizer 850mAh rechargeable nickle metal hydride batteries. And that meant no heavy transmission time.
  • Batteries - TenergyI got just under 3 hours of run time on Tenergy 1000mAh rechargeable nickle metal hydride batteries.
  • The AAA battery tray works just fine and fits well without any modifications.

So, the bottom line is…only use AAA batteries when you don’t have any other battery option available.

What my testing showed for AAA batteries:

  • AAA batteries just don’t have enough power to keep the radio running for very long. Even with the best of the AAA batteries, 3 – 5 hours of run-time is just not adequate. Well, unless there simply is nothing else available.
  • Rechargeable AAA batteries suck. Energizer AAA rechargeable batteries really, really, suck.
  • Alkaline batteries are marginally better. But only marginally better.

What my testing showed for AA batteries:

  • AA batteries (the big brother to AAA batteries), are exponentially better for radio operations. They lasted 5 – 8 times longer their smaller counterpart.
  • Rechargeable AA batteries are also acceptable for using in radios, but only quality Batteries - TenergyAABatteries - Duracelrechargeable batteries such as Tenergy or Duracell. Energizer rechargeable batteries are worthless.
  • Running my UV-5RA on Duracell alkaline batteries (5 to start with and a dummy battery to prevent over voltage) I was able to get 38 hours of operation. When the radio shut down I swapped the dummy battery for a brand new Duracell and got another 1.5 hours of radio operations out of it.

For rechargeable AA & AAA batteries I like Tenergy batteries. Remember, there isn’t a good rechargeable AAA battery for radio operations.Batteries - Energizer SuckAA

I won’t ever depend on Energizer AAA or AA rechargeable batteries. Energizer batteries suck…period.

 

 

For alkaline batteries…Duracell. Period!

For alkaline batteries…Duracell. Period!

 

 

 

 

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FAQ – 4/13/2020

  • Why do you keep reprinting articles from 3 – 5 years ago?

Well, it is more like I am republishing those articles. And the reason is, because you are a new website user, is the crash that rook place a while back. All my articles were deleted from the website. For over a year now I have been resurrecting articles from a variety of sources. I review them for accuracy, content, grammer, etc. I then republish them in the correct “category”. So I am rebuilding the website over time…while I have been building my retirement house.

  • Why don’t you publish new content articles? And why is your contents page so out of date?

First off…the Table of Contents is only about 2 weeks out of date. I only update it so often because it is time consuming and I would rather bring back old content that was crashed or create new content. So, every few weeks I go back and update the TOC. But don’t fret!!!!  You can always use the menu on the left side of each screen to narrow down the articles to categories.

New content…come on…give me a break! I have been producing new content…check the “COVID-19” category on the left. and yes, there has been other new content as well such as FAQs and more is coming…just please be patient. I still have to make my wife happy with finishing the new house I am building. Yes, I am building it myself…not having it built. And that my friend, takes some time. I will get back after it within a few weeks. And yes, that includes more of my latest book 🙂

  • Do you do book tours anymore? Or speak to groups and what does it cost?

No. I started feeling kind of sleazy do the book tour thing so I stopped. Yes, I still speak to groups as requested, as time permits. It doesn’t cost anything for me to come speak. I do ask that the group cover my travel expenses.

  • A buddy of mine said you did some prepper consulting work for him. Do you still do that and what is your rate?

Yes, I do a fair amount of consulting as time permits. Some over the phone, some via email, some in-person. I don’t “charge” anything, so I have no “rate”. What I do ask folks…if they have the means to pay for it, and feel there is value in my consulting then pay me whatever they feel is fair, or what the value of my advice is to them. If they don’t pay…oh well. If they pay me a $1…oh well. If they pay me $1,000…well, my wife smiles a whole lot 🙂

Seriously, if you want my opinion, advice, or consulting services then just ask for it. If you can pay me something that would be nice. If you can’t afford it…well, ask me anyways…I am grateful for the opportunity to help any way I can.

  • When are you going to publish another book?

I am no longer in the book publishing business. I still write as time permits but the books are, and will be free. I post the books online and you can read them as you wish. I am still converting my first two books to that format so please be patient.

  • Are you going to write about building your retirement home – BugOut retreat?

Yes. But, that is still probably not going to happen before summer. And yes, I believe there will be a summer 🙂

 

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